Nitrous tank ..engineers advice needed ???
#31
Originally Posted by macreel
Brett.. the SCUBA (I mentioned earlier) are readily available,
use standard fittings, are generally (periodically) hydrostatically
-tested to 5,000 psi (ours are locally, at any rate) and withstand
hard use. But still need care in handling, especially when charged.
Filament-wound 'bottles' are possibilities but may be more expensive.
G'luck.
use standard fittings, are generally (periodically) hydrostatically
-tested to 5,000 psi (ours are locally, at any rate) and withstand
hard use. But still need care in handling, especially when charged.
Filament-wound 'bottles' are possibilities but may be more expensive.
G'luck.
Do they do a "Polo mint" or "doughnut" shaped bottle ??? rather than a cylinder ?
All the best Brett
#35
Originally Posted by sublimate
Maybe you know it as a:
Globe?
Ball?
Jaw Breaker?
Globe?
Ball?
Jaw Breaker?
Lol
I know what a sphere is in a generic sense...just not in a tank sense...by the way..in the UK I think what you call Jaw Breakers we call "Gob Stoppers" lol
All the best Brett
#39
Safest way to carry it would be in approved tanks -- you're flirting with disaster trying to make your own. I agree with the above statements about what happens when the valve comes off. I'd recommend some sort of plate at either end of the mounting, one at the base to keep the tank from moving and especially one at the valve end to direct any blowout downward. Maybe the valve would be launched through the seat if it broke off, maybe not, but would really ruin your day is having 1000psi+ liquid punching a hole through the seat and through you and then freezing the edges.
And while you're at it, you might consider mounting it to something a little stronger than the 20 year-old plywood seatback. If you hit something hard enough, that bottle could kill you in an otherwise survivable accident.
And while you're at it, you might consider mounting it to something a little stronger than the 20 year-old plywood seatback. If you hit something hard enough, that bottle could kill you in an otherwise survivable accident.
#40
1) the myth busters proved that wrong. they shot the scuba tanks and all it did was leak out at a high rate. they used a bunch of different types of guns and hit it in different areas. just a loud stream of gas would escape. NOS is just air , not flamible at all.
2) if it did start a major leak, the pressure is high, but depending on the rate of flow, it would have an force that would yeild to be unstable on the bottle. it would just spin around or get wedged in some way in a hurry. and if the hole was large enough, it would be over in short order. a large hole on a NOS bottle has very little force (like the opening of the valve size) the only way a NOS bottle can explode, is if it is heated by a bottle heater, and then the results can be catastrophic.
mk
2) if it did start a major leak, the pressure is high, but depending on the rate of flow, it would have an force that would yeild to be unstable on the bottle. it would just spin around or get wedged in some way in a hurry. and if the hole was large enough, it would be over in short order. a large hole on a NOS bottle has very little force (like the opening of the valve size) the only way a NOS bottle can explode, is if it is heated by a bottle heater, and then the results can be catastrophic.
mk
Originally Posted by littleball_s4
Engineering advice:
1) Simply don't do it. The energy is related to the amount of gas stored. Your shark will be a rolling H-bomb.
2) If you really have to do it, buy the tank, don't build it. Tanks are rated to certain pressures, according to thicknesses, yes, but also shapes and materials. Also, copying a hardware is not easy, because you can screw it up welding, for example, even if it looks identical from outside.
For example, if you build a cilyndrical tank of acertain thickness with flat ends, it will stand x pressure. If the ends are slightly curved it will stand 2*x. If they are hemispheric, it will stand 3*x. But if you build it and leave an imperfection in the welding (which can only be detected via X-ray) it will stand x/2 no matter what shape it is.
1) Simply don't do it. The energy is related to the amount of gas stored. Your shark will be a rolling H-bomb.
2) If you really have to do it, buy the tank, don't build it. Tanks are rated to certain pressures, according to thicknesses, yes, but also shapes and materials. Also, copying a hardware is not easy, because you can screw it up welding, for example, even if it looks identical from outside.
For example, if you build a cilyndrical tank of acertain thickness with flat ends, it will stand x pressure. If the ends are slightly curved it will stand 2*x. If they are hemispheric, it will stand 3*x. But if you build it and leave an imperfection in the welding (which can only be detected via X-ray) it will stand x/2 no matter what shape it is.