Need pics of master/slave lines in car.
#1
Need pics of master/slave lines in car.
Greetings,
Doing a 5 speed conversion to a 1986.5 928S. Need to install the master and slave cylinders and their respective hard lines and am a bit confused as to where the hard metal lines attach to under the car. I know one bracket attaches to the sway bar mount and one attaches to the oil pan but would like to see pics of them in place. Can anyone oblige me?
By the way, this conversion job is no way a "10-12" hour bolt up job. Heck, I have about 4 hours in the cleaning and detail of the trans exterior alone and it wasn't that filthy! I used a dremel tool with a few different wire wheel attachments to get at all the nooks and crannies after spending a few hours taking off the cosmoline/dirt coating. I couldn't believe that after the trans engineers cast in all the beautiful cooling fins of the trans body the whole trans bottom gets sprayed with a heavy coat of cosmoline which only attracts dirt and oil hampering the cooling efficiency of the fins. Argh!
Thanks in advance,
Constantine
Doing a 5 speed conversion to a 1986.5 928S. Need to install the master and slave cylinders and their respective hard lines and am a bit confused as to where the hard metal lines attach to under the car. I know one bracket attaches to the sway bar mount and one attaches to the oil pan but would like to see pics of them in place. Can anyone oblige me?
By the way, this conversion job is no way a "10-12" hour bolt up job. Heck, I have about 4 hours in the cleaning and detail of the trans exterior alone and it wasn't that filthy! I used a dremel tool with a few different wire wheel attachments to get at all the nooks and crannies after spending a few hours taking off the cosmoline/dirt coating. I couldn't believe that after the trans engineers cast in all the beautiful cooling fins of the trans body the whole trans bottom gets sprayed with a heavy coat of cosmoline which only attracts dirt and oil hampering the cooling efficiency of the fins. Argh!
Thanks in advance,
Constantine
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Constantine;
It's rather simple, it really only goes one way (easily). The hard line goes above the starter by the cone section. If you haven't removed the line from the slave I gave you, just position the two brackets and it'll fall into place.
I don't have a 5 speed on the lift at the moment but my move some cars around tomorrow. If I get a chance I'll shoot you a picture.
Email me if you need any help.
It's rather simple, it really only goes one way (easily). The hard line goes above the starter by the cone section. If you haven't removed the line from the slave I gave you, just position the two brackets and it'll fall into place.
I don't have a 5 speed on the lift at the moment but my move some cars around tomorrow. If I get a chance I'll shoot you a picture.
Email me if you need any help.
#7
Nordschleife Master
I may lift my car tomorrow and if i do i will take some pics for you, it is quite simple but I like you requested a pic from here too and found one. Not sure where i got it from though.
Actually come to think of it, i needed a pic for the starter wiring, now that i think of it the clutch hydraulics are really easy.
With the starter off, connect your clutch slave up, then thread the hardline hose into the slave, (there are only 4 parts of the clutch hydraulics, clutch slave, hardline under the oil pan, flexible line which i believe then becomes the hard line which goes into the front or back of the clutch master cylinder, and the clutch master itself.)
There is a clip, similiar to the clips that the brake lines have to keep the flexible portions from moving all the time, that clip goes onto a sub-bracket on the oil pan, and is held up by i think 2 of the oil pan bolts. thats also the area that the hardline ends from the slave, from there you have the 1 peice combination hard and flexible line that then goes to the master cylinder.
If you have other specific questions post again or PM me.
Note you cannot get the hardline under the oil pan out unless you remove the starter, so remove the starter, i didnt do this on my car till the engine was out as one of my starter bolts was stripped.
Actually come to think of it, i needed a pic for the starter wiring, now that i think of it the clutch hydraulics are really easy.
With the starter off, connect your clutch slave up, then thread the hardline hose into the slave, (there are only 4 parts of the clutch hydraulics, clutch slave, hardline under the oil pan, flexible line which i believe then becomes the hard line which goes into the front or back of the clutch master cylinder, and the clutch master itself.)
There is a clip, similiar to the clips that the brake lines have to keep the flexible portions from moving all the time, that clip goes onto a sub-bracket on the oil pan, and is held up by i think 2 of the oil pan bolts. thats also the area that the hardline ends from the slave, from there you have the 1 peice combination hard and flexible line that then goes to the master cylinder.
If you have other specific questions post again or PM me.
Note you cannot get the hardline under the oil pan out unless you remove the starter, so remove the starter, i didnt do this on my car till the engine was out as one of my starter bolts was stripped.
Last edited by RyanPerrella; 10-01-2006 at 03:42 AM. Reason: edit
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#8
Now these answers are more like it!
Scott, I tried doing what you said and still couldn't quite get how to route the lines and place the mounts. Should have taken some pics of all this when I visited you since I'm a bit slow on the uptake sometimes, especially laying on my back and looking at the areas at a different angle than just standing and looking up under a lift.
Ryan, I appreciate the explanation and offer. The starter was removed when I was taking out the automatic stuff.
Thanks again guys,
Constantine
Scott, I tried doing what you said and still couldn't quite get how to route the lines and place the mounts. Should have taken some pics of all this when I visited you since I'm a bit slow on the uptake sometimes, especially laying on my back and looking at the areas at a different angle than just standing and looking up under a lift.
Ryan, I appreciate the explanation and offer. The starter was removed when I was taking out the automatic stuff.
Thanks again guys,
Constantine
#9
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When I had my master and slave replaced, the mechanic pointed out that one of the hard lines had a "v" worn into it from where it was rubbing on the edge of the oil pan. It wasn't worn through yet but it was pretty deep. I ordered the line the mech. said I needed but it was the wrong one. I've got a part #92842319903 if you want it. I need to order part #92842319702. Send me a PM with your address and I'll send it to you if you want it.
#11
Mike,
My lines are fine but I really appreciate the offer!
Dave,
Thank you for that picture. It is helpful but it looks like your missing a bracket that attaches to the oil pan. But as you say it works!
Cheers,
Constantine
My lines are fine but I really appreciate the offer!
Dave,
Thank you for that picture. It is helpful but it looks like your missing a bracket that attaches to the oil pan. But as you say it works!
Cheers,
Constantine
#12
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I don't have the definitive shot with the starter remove, but hopefully these are helpful. In the first pic, the rubber covered line labeled 'TCH' is actually a sheath over the metal clutch hydraulic line, which comes out of the rubber sheath, through the oil pan mounting bracket, across the bottom of the oil pan above the starter, and then into the slave cylinder as shown. In the midline of the oil pan, there is a small (1 inch long) rubber rib glued to one of the cooling fins on the pan, so that vibrations don't eat into the hard line. Hope this makes sense!
#13
Rob,
Spot on photo! Got it know. I always wondered why that little piece of rubber was stuck on the bottom of the oil pan, know it makes sense. It's not needed for an auto.
Umm, hate to be a big bother but any shots of the other mount somehwere on the sway bar mount as I was told? This steadies the line coming down from the master.
Thank you very much,
Constantine
Spot on photo! Got it know. I always wondered why that little piece of rubber was stuck on the bottom of the oil pan, know it makes sense. It's not needed for an auto.
Umm, hate to be a big bother but any shots of the other mount somehwere on the sway bar mount as I was told? This steadies the line coming down from the master.
Thank you very much,
Constantine
#14
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Um... what small (1 inch long) rubber rib? I guess that's why the edge of the oil pan almost wore through the top of the line as shown in the first two pics. I suppose the PO left it off when installing the GTS baffle. I'll be sure to install one (or something similar) when I replace the line.
#15
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Constantine-
Here are some more shots I just took. Yell if any don't make sense!
Mount to swaybar:
Closeup of same:
Another shot of the oil pan bracket, from the side:
Hard line as it goes up into the firewall, looking from the midline of the car (the angle is funny- for reference, my head is at right, I'm lying down, head towards the front of the car in the background):
And a shot looking up the firewall as the line disappears:
Here are some more shots I just took. Yell if any don't make sense!
Mount to swaybar:
Closeup of same:
Another shot of the oil pan bracket, from the side:
Hard line as it goes up into the firewall, looking from the midline of the car (the angle is funny- for reference, my head is at right, I'm lying down, head towards the front of the car in the background):
And a shot looking up the firewall as the line disappears: