I found that the problem with my shifter is most likely caused by a bad forward shift ball cup or as Jim Bailey called it a 'front Angular joint 928 424 005 01'.

I wanted to know how much is going to be involved in replacing this. I've found many articles that start with the TT on the floor or doing it while the engine is out already for something else, but the tech area article says there was a guy who could do it in an hour, which leads me to believe there must be some shortcut.

Can anyone tell me how much I'll have to remove in order to get in there? I don't have access to a lift or winch, so there's a limit to how much I can do in my garage.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Never have wrenched on a shark, but on the 944 series you remove the center console and the bearing is right on top of the torque tube underneath the shift lever. Not too bad, most of the work is getting the interior bits out without damaging them.

 

on a race car, its simple, just cut a hole near the vent hole on the center tunnel. on a street car, that hole has a rubber cap that can be used to guide the replacement. however, its on top of the torque tube and there is not much room to work. you can see it from underneath the car with a flashlight to see if its broken or just poped off the ball which is part of the torque tube used to anchor the entire shifting system. if it just came off, i would suggest putting it back on and using a 5" diameter metal hose clamp to make sure it doesnt come off again. otherwise, on a street car, you have to drop the torque tube and exhaust to replace it. not fun. mine broke, but most just come off the ball as the plastic insert gets worn.

mk

 

Nope, nope, nope….. I have an ’85 and replaced the cup 4 years ago. The TT doesn’t have to come off at all. Event he exhaust stays in place. What has to come off is the heat shield above the cat and the O2 sensor wire needs to be disconnected and pulled back for clearance. It’s not difficult but it is really time consuming cause the cup will only come off ¼ turn at a time. Three a several good write ups on Nichol’s site. If the cup can be secured with a 5” hose clamp then do that until you have time to do the replacement. If it’s too worn and you need to replace it, then make sure you allocate at least a weekend ( just in case it takes longer than expected).

I’ve replaced my entire cup with a new one but apparently the plastic inset is identical to the one on the clutch fork ball and can be bought for around $1.

 

Thanks Sharky and Mark,

I was hoping not to have to take off the exhaust and torque tube. The ball cup popped off the other day and it goes back on, but I got a new one and want to replace it. I've seen several articles that include the reference to the hose clamp (thank you) and also making sure I count the threads/turns to remove the old one so the new one goes back on the same. I was just hoping for some shortcut that wouldn't require all that disassembly.
My experience with older exhaust systems has been that they don't take kindly to being removed without a fight. And I'm not really up for the R&R of the TT if I can help it.

 

Imo,

I saw the write-up about the nylon insert matching the one from the clutch after I ordered the new part (whoops). It did say that it takes quite a bit of effort even with the TT on the bench (I think).

Thanks for the info, I don't mind putting in the time (maybe I need a ratcheting open end) I just don't want to try pulling the exhaust system until I've got a replacement because I've never once had one that came out without having to be cut/torched/coerced in some unholy way.

I think this weekend is supposed to be crappy here weather-wise, and I'm looking forward to a little quality time under the shark... I'll try your suggestion and if I can I'll take pix in case anyone else wants them. I don't know if it's just me, but I didn't find any info on replacing just that part.

 

I recently did this on my 82. I took down the cat heat shield and O2 sensor for better access. Suprisingly, the ball cup came off easily after loosening the lock nut. You'll want to count threads and note the radial position of the old cup so you can install the new one in the same location. About six inches back on the rod you will find flats that will greatly help in holding the rod while wrenching the ball cup/lock nut during removal and installation. The hardest part for me was getting the new cup over the ball on the TT. The lack of manuevering space is maddening. I was able to fit the angled end of a small pry bar over the ball cup and had just enough room to work the pry bar as a lever and pop the cup onto the ball. Total time of repair: about 3 hrs for me.

 

Seatra,

Thanks for the input. You and Imo told me just what I wanted to hear, no R&R on the TT and exhaust. I'm not a big fan of prybars around my cars, I think someone mentioned a 6-8" 'C' clamp to get it to work it's way on (don't remember if this was in or out of the car though, so yours may be the only way).

Thanks for the tip on the flat spot. That's what makes this forum great. I'm sure that stuff isn't in the shop manual.

I just realized it's going to have to wait until next weekend. The part is on order, but I didn't specify special shipping so it won't be in for a few days. Maybe I'll try the hose clamp technique in the meantime so I can drive it.

 

I hear you on the pry bar thing. I basically used it as a lever between the top of the cup and the body of the car directly above the ball cup

 

The most popular tool to remove the old ball cup is a very small pipe wrench and this is exactly what I used too. Buy the smallest pipe wrench you can get and use that to slowly unscrew the cup. But first you have to use regular open end wenches to break the locking nut loose, then use the pipe wrench to unscrew it. You might have to use the pipe wrench to reinstall the new one or if you are lucky it will tread in by hand.

 

I mentioned in a thread a couple of days ago this tip I got from someone on this board:

Use a ratcheting tie down strap to seat the new ball cup.

Ratcheting strap

 

Imo,

Thanks again.

If things are as tight in there as they look and as you both said it will be, I'm sure my fat fingers aren't going to do much threading before I either get stuck or cramp up. I'll be able to size it up after I get the heat shield and sensor wire out of the way and then make a run for a wrench or two if I don't have what I need.

I really appreciate your experience and time on this one. I'm sure it's not a big job once I get into it, and knowing that it can be done without taking everything out helps a great deal.

Thanks again-

 

Shane,

The tie-down strap looks like a great idea. I've used the same kind of thing for woodworking (my other hobby). Things are kinda tight in there, I guess I gotta get a 1" one that won't have a long throw on the handle, and that I can release once it's snug.

I don't think it'd be good if I left it in there, although it's as good as the bungee that someone else found under there during the PPI.

Thanks again.

 

use a hose clamp to get the new ball socket on the ball. It took only a few seconds to do this on my car, but i did it via the hole i cut on top. (street car is no way for this angle)
however, as was said, i guess you can do the entire thing from the bottom and thats good news. sure looked tight from my perspective however, once you get things on, the hose clamp and a 8mm socket that attaches to the screw on the clamp and an electric mikita drill, and you just orient the hose clamp and spin away. pulls it right down. the hard part is making sure the clamp stays on the top of the ball socket thingie. it has a habit of sliding off unless you stabilize it with your hand or someone does it from the peak hole up top (rubber plug on the tunnel across from the throttle pedal)

 

that was the most frustrating repair job i performed on my former car. good luck.