UKKid35

When you do the re-check, try using the JagEng virtual guage as well and compare the two for repeatability and ease of use. You will need an MP3 player and headphones, and somewhere free from traffic noise.

http://www.jageng.com/sharkbit_2.htm

whall

Paul,

I will give it a try and ask my teens to help. I just listened to the sound and it all sounds the same to me. Maybe a little too much Sabbath at 120db for me but my sons who have some music ed might be able to help.

heinrich

Listen to your Porsche .... no, really LISTEN .....

whall

H,
Have you tried the audio belt adjustment technique?
W

davek9

Hi all, just read this and have two questions:
What weight and type of oil are you currently running?
Would this affect the tension when cold? i.e. to thick equals less or slow response to tension the belt?

I recently purchased all the main parts for TP/WP job, now saving up for the three pulleys as the cam ones are shiny so should be the oil pump too.

davek9

Understood about MY '85 recomended oil types (thats in the manual).
My question(s) was what type of oil is he using when he had this issue and if it could be a factor?

heinrich

Warren no, no need, the Kempf tool works fine for me

sharkmeister85

I'm running 90w in my tensioner with no issues. Now mind you its not as cold here overnight as it is in Warren's neck of the woods. I figured the 90w would leak out a little slower than something on the thinner side.
Glenn

Bill Ball

In the 83MY+ tensioner there is a small hydraulic effect of the oil in dampening vibration of the belt but no effect on the tension which is set mechanically by the bolt. And the oil serves to transmit heat to the bimetallic washers. The WSM calls for gear oil in 78-82 and motor oil in 83+, but it is not clear why and a viscosity is not specified.

mark kibort

why would this matter?

MK

mark kibort

after my race, after all the silly things that went wrong (fortunately after the checker), more happened in the pits. i couldnt get a rear lug nut off, and on the way home, the timing belt light went on.

i fixed the shifter ball cup linkage and then used the Kempf tool to check the belt tension. notice a lot of oil near the connection of the tensioner warning circuit. cleaned it all off and it works fine now.
kind of a scare, because when i was driving home, i only had one or two gears, so sometimes i was cruising at 3500rpm and then the light would come on! I didnt want to loose some valves, but finally found 5th when the traffic got clear on the way home.

moral of the story is that the tensioner circuit is based on a broke connection. if the spade connection is corroded, or has some oil in there, it can make an intermittant circuit connection based on temp too. remember, there is only 12 volts around there, so it makes circuits kind of fickle.
certainly not the oil in the tensioner. it just has the tensioner heat up faster from block temp. Otherwise, with out oil, there is the risk that the tension could be too high until the heat is fully transfered in the tensioner.

thoughts?
MK

davek9

Thank you Bill that answered my questions, there is no Hydraulic action used for Dampening.

mark kibort

my light is coming back on today. thought it was a bad or compromised connection, and it could still be, but i already re checked the belt tension. any otherways the timing belt sensor can be activated?

Mk

Bill Ball

Mark:

Pull out the sensor wire connector the center TB cover and test both ends of the connection for ground continuity. If one end does not go to ground, your problem is in that segment of the system.