928 Motorsports Oil Control kit Works!
09-06-2006, 09:29 PM
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928 Motorsports Oil Control kit Works!
I recently rebuilt the top end of my M28-21.
What happened was that I went to add oil one day back in May, and the hose that attaches to the oil filler "can" on the two-valve engine broke off in my hand.
Yes, rubber hoses, when exposed to 21 years of Florida heat and 21 years of being 6 inches above a small-block V8 engine, have registered a decided tendency to become hard and break when twisted, such as this one did when it was asked to move while I added oil. The long and short is that I needed to replace this tube.
Problem, and though it is a problem this particular time, it really isn't a problem in the grand scheme of things: This car was sold in Vienna, Austria in 1985, not Vienna, Ohio. That marks it as an "S2", or ROW car. The various tubes and parts around the engine bay are different, along with a hell of a lot of other things.
The Big three all carry these parts, or close enough equivalents. This means that owning an oddball 928 that doesn't conform to the US regulations is still a reasonable proposition.
There are still problems. Problems that carry over to other cars, specifically...well, all 928's. The oil filler on the M28 engine is positioned in a bad spot- it is just above the cylinders 2/6 main bearings, and as such it slings oil directly toward the place where the vent for the crankcase exists. On new engines, this isn't a problem. On engines with a normal amount of wear, this is a big problem, since it tends to sling oil into the intake! Carl Faucette of 928 Motorsports came up with a kit that involves a crankcase baffle and an improved oil separator inside the oil filler, along with some secondary drainage tubes. On my ROW car, I installed the first two, though I had to extend the new US oil breather tube I bought via clamps and copper tubes to mate with the original ROW oil breather tube, which has a slightly different part number and is not available in the US. Sounds uncool, but it is a tiny amount of work to add your old tube to the new, as I did.
OK, so how does it work? I'll tell you, and then show you! DAMN! My U-bend always had some oil at the bottom, no matter what I did. Today I pulled the air filter and MAF, and examined the intake since I have driven 400 miles since and wanted to see where things were, and because the car has started running kind of rich, despite the fact that my A/F meter is telling me that I run consistently in the 14.6 range [no that's not a good reading; this means no full-throttle enrichment]. I pull away from a light, and if I short-shift....like, put it in 4th gear at 30 mph and rag the engine...I get a cloud of black smoke behind me like a diesel Ford F-250! And I can "trick-f*ck" the LH computer some times- I barely tap the pedal, and it will stall. This didn't happen until a few days ago, and we have had 10 inches of rain in the past 5 days around here!
I just got in from checking the MAF connection. Nothing else around this engine is wet, or in any way effected by moisture! WTF?
In any case, while working on all this, I was astonished by how effective Car's kit was! You people need to buy this thing and install it too. Oil gets sucked into your intake, and even if you run racing fuel...motor oil has ZERO octane and will cause your engine to knock and ping itself to death.
Here's before and after pictures. Be advised, the second picture is after only 400 miles of driving...but the car was running great and I was hammering the throttle all the time.
N!
What happened was that I went to add oil one day back in May, and the hose that attaches to the oil filler "can" on the two-valve engine broke off in my hand.
Yes, rubber hoses, when exposed to 21 years of Florida heat and 21 years of being 6 inches above a small-block V8 engine, have registered a decided tendency to become hard and break when twisted, such as this one did when it was asked to move while I added oil. The long and short is that I needed to replace this tube.
Problem, and though it is a problem this particular time, it really isn't a problem in the grand scheme of things: This car was sold in Vienna, Austria in 1985, not Vienna, Ohio. That marks it as an "S2", or ROW car. The various tubes and parts around the engine bay are different, along with a hell of a lot of other things.
The Big three all carry these parts, or close enough equivalents. This means that owning an oddball 928 that doesn't conform to the US regulations is still a reasonable proposition.
There are still problems. Problems that carry over to other cars, specifically...well, all 928's. The oil filler on the M28 engine is positioned in a bad spot- it is just above the cylinders 2/6 main bearings, and as such it slings oil directly toward the place where the vent for the crankcase exists. On new engines, this isn't a problem. On engines with a normal amount of wear, this is a big problem, since it tends to sling oil into the intake! Carl Faucette of 928 Motorsports came up with a kit that involves a crankcase baffle and an improved oil separator inside the oil filler, along with some secondary drainage tubes. On my ROW car, I installed the first two, though I had to extend the new US oil breather tube I bought via clamps and copper tubes to mate with the original ROW oil breather tube, which has a slightly different part number and is not available in the US. Sounds uncool, but it is a tiny amount of work to add your old tube to the new, as I did.
OK, so how does it work? I'll tell you, and then show you! DAMN! My U-bend always had some oil at the bottom, no matter what I did. Today I pulled the air filter and MAF, and examined the intake since I have driven 400 miles since and wanted to see where things were, and because the car has started running kind of rich, despite the fact that my A/F meter is telling me that I run consistently in the 14.6 range [no that's not a good reading; this means no full-throttle enrichment]. I pull away from a light, and if I short-shift....like, put it in 4th gear at 30 mph and rag the engine...I get a cloud of black smoke behind me like a diesel Ford F-250! And I can "trick-f*ck" the LH computer some times- I barely tap the pedal, and it will stall. This didn't happen until a few days ago, and we have had 10 inches of rain in the past 5 days around here!
I just got in from checking the MAF connection. Nothing else around this engine is wet, or in any way effected by moisture! WTF?
In any case, while working on all this, I was astonished by how effective Car's kit was! You people need to buy this thing and install it too. Oil gets sucked into your intake, and even if you run racing fuel...motor oil has ZERO octane and will cause your engine to knock and ping itself to death.
Here's before and after pictures. Be advised, the second picture is after only 400 miles of driving...but the car was running great and I was hammering the throttle all the time.
N!
09-06-2006, 10:10 PM
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Normy, I've had similar results from installing an exterior breather system on my 86.5. Before I always had oil in the U and in the large plenums that come with the US 85-86.5 intakes. Now bone dry and sparkling clean, not even a mist of oil. One of the best mods I've done for my 928.
09-07-2006, 07:26 AM
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Yes Shane, please elaborate. My 86.5 track car has this problem and I hate the idea of burning oil in my engine during track time. My exhaust pipe always looks sooty and although the engine pulls very strong with no discernable problems, I want to stop this oil ingestion. Pictures would be great too!
TIA,
Constantine
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Constantine
09-07-2006, 07:53 AM
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Nice write-up N!. 
09-07-2006, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by John Speake
Can you give some pics of how the kit installs Normy ?
The first portion involves attaching a 90 degree part to the top of the cam cover, and running a rubber hose from this to the air box. This is done on cars with an existing hose to the air box- my S2 didn't have this, it just had a hose from the oil filler to the bottom of the "U" bend [this is the hose that originally broke]. I chose to delete this portion of the kit.
The second involves removing the oil filler all together, and installing a metal plate with holes that serves to prevent slung oil from entering the oil filler area. The plate is sandwiched between the block and the filler, and I used black gasket sealer to make a seal.
[Someone may know better, but I'm pretty sure you have to completely remove the filler assembly in order to install this plate...and I'm pretty sure that to do this, you have to remove either the water bridge or the intake manifold, adding a bit of work to the whole project!]
Then an improved oil separator is installed where the wire mesh strainer normally sits. It is basically two sections of pipe with a hole between them, and it just makes the air do a couple of bends before it can reach the intake. Air can turn easily, but oil droplets cannot so they wind up separated by simple inertia.
Here's a picture of the oil separator:
N!
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09-07-2006, 10:52 AM
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Well I'll start with this. I went in to my intake to fix some vacuum leaks. It snowballed from there. Rather than see all the oil back in my intake again I decided to do something about it. I went to one of the online hose outfits and ordered a bunch of various size hose. (I'll get more specifics later) With the intake off I rerouted all the breather hose from the passenger side to the drivers side so I could "T" into a vent from that side as well. I have yet to re-do the cam covers so that vent is not installed "yet". I plugged the vent on the side of the oil fill ( Did this when I was working to install a Murf prototype on my 928) but will eventually "T" that in as well. Now unfortunately for us (in some ways) our intakes are really wide. Doesn't leave a lot of options for placing of the breather itself. I bought a Provent Mann breather from DR. Provent Breather
When I deleted my smog pump and smog pump filter housing this opened up a nice spot to put it. Trouble is you really want your breather as high as possible. I went with where I could fit it. If you still have a belt driven fan or smog pump this location probably won't work for you. I routed my hose from the drivers side where it is routed for the "T" on that cam cover back across the engine to the passenger side to the Provent. The vent has an oil drain on the bottom, which I routed a hose to the blank plate on the front of the oil pan. This I pulled off and drilled and tapped for 1/4" NPT hose barb fitting (Another trick learned from the Murf Prototype) for an oil return. Fairly simple just a little time consuming find routes for everything and gathering up all the fittings.
Pics:
Although this is working fine right now, I know it can be better. When I add a turbo to this 928, I will most likely re-do it a different way, and place the breather up in the corner where DR puts his on the twinscrew kits.
When I deleted my smog pump and smog pump filter housing this opened up a nice spot to put it. Trouble is you really want your breather as high as possible. I went with where I could fit it. If you still have a belt driven fan or smog pump this location probably won't work for you. I routed my hose from the drivers side where it is routed for the "T" on that cam cover back across the engine to the passenger side to the Provent. The vent has an oil drain on the bottom, which I routed a hose to the blank plate on the front of the oil pan. This I pulled off and drilled and tapped for 1/4" NPT hose barb fitting (Another trick learned from the Murf Prototype) for an oil return. Fairly simple just a little time consuming find routes for everything and gathering up all the fittings.
Pics:
Although this is working fine right now, I know it can be better. When I add a turbo to this 928, I will most likely re-do it a different way, and place the breather up in the corner where DR puts his on the twinscrew kits.
Last edited by Shane; 09-07-2006 at 01:15 PM.
