Rattling noise at shutdown - RV
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rattling noise at shutdown - RV
Is it normal.. or somewhat normal that when you turn the car off there be a little bit of a rattling sound... it sounds like you have a few rock in a can and it just rattles for a sec or so. It always turns over smooth and engine sounds good, at least it doesn't sound or drive any rougher than my Grand Am or Xterra. being this is my first 928, hell first Porsche period.. should I be concerned?
#2
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by GeaBaldyVx
Is it normal.. or somewhat normal that when you turn the car off there be a little bit of a rattling sound... it sounds like you have a few rock in a can and it just rattles for a sec or so. It always turns over smooth and engine sounds good, at least it doesn't sound or drive any rougher than my Grand Am or Xterra. being this is my first 928, hell first Porsche period.. should I be concerned?
#5
Rennlist Member
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/295382-i-got-my-torque-converter-rebuilt-with-increased-stall.html
Read all of this. Some of the info might be helpful to you.
Read all of this. Some of the info might be helpful to you.
#6
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The one time I encountered this it was a flexplate with a broken arm. Actually, 2 out of the 3 arms were cracked through. Loose flexplate bolts would do this too.
#7
Rennlist Member
Bill,
This is the very next thing on my list to check. Was this an auto or stick flex plate?
To the original poster:
Check the easy stuff first, like the pinch bolts. You can get the heat sheilds out of your way without dropping the exhaust. Just pull the black plug and rotate the motor over (in a clockwise rotation if you are staring at the front of the transmission looking aft) until you can access the rear pinch bolt. Torque to 66ft/lbs. You will have to drop the lower front bell housing cover to acess the front pinch bolt. Might as well check your preload on your thrust bearing at this time. Loosen the front pinch bolt first, and then re-torque to 66 ft/lbs. Start with this and let us know if this fixes your problem.
Keep an eye on the thread I posted above for my eventual solution to my rattling problem.
This is the very next thing on my list to check. Was this an auto or stick flex plate?
To the original poster:
Check the easy stuff first, like the pinch bolts. You can get the heat sheilds out of your way without dropping the exhaust. Just pull the black plug and rotate the motor over (in a clockwise rotation if you are staring at the front of the transmission looking aft) until you can access the rear pinch bolt. Torque to 66ft/lbs. You will have to drop the lower front bell housing cover to acess the front pinch bolt. Might as well check your preload on your thrust bearing at this time. Loosen the front pinch bolt first, and then re-torque to 66 ft/lbs. Start with this and let us know if this fixes your problem.
Keep an eye on the thread I posted above for my eventual solution to my rattling problem.
Trending Topics
#8
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Auto flexplate. We tracked it to that area with a rubber hose "listening tool". Initially the rattle seemed to come from the engine compartment, but when I got under the car and moved the end of the hose up to the lower bellhousing cover, it was clear to noise came from that area. Who knows how long the 3rd arm would have held up.
Rattle on shutdown is characteristic of loose or broken flexplate.
Rattle on shutdown is characteristic of loose or broken flexplate.