PorKen

New bolts, washers, and lower bracket delete (5 lbs?).

This was a tangent project while I had the car up to swap in the factory exhaust for DEQ testing. I couldn't get a wrench on the driver's side bolt heads, so I took a cutoff wheel to the nuts.

I was thinking I'd use Carl's solid bushings, but my rubber bushings were fine, they didn't look like they'd come out easily, and I was pressed for time. I used two thick 5/8" washers, drilled out to 3/4", the top one clipped to fit. I think it was Louie who mentioned in brief about using washers for this in a post long ago.

I used 10mm connector nuts on the top, so I could easily get a wrench on them next time. Not as subtle as I'd like, but it has worked so far. The steering does feel more precise now.


You can tell I spend a lot of time detailing my engine.

PorKen

As I was taking pics today for the post above - I was also looking at ways to make crashbars under the engine - when I noticed that my 'Energy Suspension' swaybar bushing mounts are both cracked! This explains the creaking noises I had thought were just poly squeak.



I'm thinking about making my own bushing bracket with a tubular brace welded to it that goes to the front skidplate. I think this would reinforce the swaybar mount, and provide engine protection too?

Garth S

Good one: in a similar vein, this use of ductile wire spacers worked for me.

SharkSkin

Interesting... my rack goes onto a set of studs that are pressed into the rack. Ken, did you have this arrangement or just boltholes in the crossmember? Garth, it looks like you also have studs in the crossmember on the S4??? I've heard of having to counterhold rack bolts on some cars -- did they change from studs to bolts then back again?

Airflite40

I also had studs, but one of mine broke so now I have 3 studs and one bolt.

SharkSkin

Ah! a hybrid! Hybrids get to use the diamond lane around here...

Garth, looked at your link again.... skimmed too quick, now I see that you have bolts there.

Garth S

Yes, bolts they are. I never really thought about it, but don't recall ever seeing studs pressed into the x-member.

SharkSkin

Hmm... sounds like maybe they changed in 1980, your '80 being somewhat newer than Borys' '80...

Andrew Schauer

My early 1980 also has studs. No bolts.

PorKen

PET lists 10x45 bolts and t-head screws, 81-

SharkSkin

Learn something new every day...

Garth S

Guess I better go check my '80 ... come to think of it, its rack is rock tight, so I've never touched it: S4's on the other hand .....

heinrich

The bolts look like studs, they have rectangular heads as I recall.

heinrich

Ken, GREAT skidplate idea. I'd better check my energies too!!

PorKen

I'm trying to isolate a problem with the steering in my '86.5, and found the rack bushings were mushy so I solid mounted the rack. (My steering is more precise now, but I still have a rack, u-joint or balljoint problem. If/when I get a rebuilt rack, I'll likely install solid bushings.)

When I did this way back when with my '81, it was an ordeal, but this time it was easy with a bit of hindsight. I used locking welding pliers to hold the inaccessible bolt head so I could loosen the locknuts. The pliers have to be very tight, but this made removing the nuts a breeze.

I used flange head bolts and nuts to reinstall. The flange head nuts do not need to be counterheld (friction keeps them from turning), so installation was easy, too.

The big plate under the rack is to hold the bolt heads in place so that the rack can float in the rubber bushings. When solid mounted, it is unnecessary, IMO.