svp928

As to the header fitment question above, they fit fine on a an S3- you just don't use the top bolthole in the header flange, and I think you can get the clutch out with them installed- but I haven't tried that yet. Maybe just pull off the collectors. Mine are actually sitting on a dummy engine, not in the car yet.

Steve

dr bob

Rack Bushings: Really unobtanium? Saw a seal set today following a link for Amp connectors, but no bushings included.

So, with a good set of mic's and some nice bronze or even Ampco-18 oil-impregnated bushing material, it can't be that tough getting a batch of bushings turned. The hard work is done by the seals, really. The bushings just keep the rack itself from beating the seals to death, right? Looking ahead -- my rack is still guten tight.

SharkSkin

Thanks Steve, Not a huge priority right now, but that's good to know. Hopefully if it will fit an S3 it will fit an S2. Or S1, or whatever the OB is supposed to be called relative to it's younger siblings.

Bob, I know where to get the bushings made up, if we can get a drawing. Maybe group-buy fodder? Maybe sell direct to Griffith?

worf928

Dave, what about the flexible line to the clutch slave? Or a slave rebuild?

The internal rack bushings have been discussed on the e-mail list. IIRC Thilo can get them? Maybe we can do an indirect group buy and have him send us 100...

SharkSkin

Hmmm, I can see how that would be easier with the rack out of the way. Last time I was under there the hose seemed OK, and no issues with clutch master atm. It's on my "clutch job WYAIT" list though. (knocking head on wooden desk)

If a group buy for bushings comes up I may just grab a set, though it looks as though I shouldn't be needing them for at least 3 years....

Bill Ball

Dave:

If that's possible, I would buy a couple of pairs.

SharkSkin

So that's 3-4 sets right off the bat...

So, I think with my volunteer helper I may just stand a chance of getting this done in a day... without, probably a good part of Sunday too. It's OK if it takes longer; that's one of the reasons I chose the long weekend to do it.

At this point, the only thing I still need to work out is how to get the car jacked all the way up on the higher jackstands. About 5 years ago, I tossed several railroad ties that had been cut in half in the middle. Now I'm wishing I hadn't. Oh well, I'll probably swing by the lumber yard at lunch tomorrow and see what I can find. What would be ideal is a 14x8 section of gluelam about 3 feet long, I'd just set the jack on top of that for the final lift. I'll probably end up settling for a couple lengths of 4x12.

worf928

Yeah. I'd need three sets myself.

I'll add to my todo list dredging through my save e-mail list digests to see if I can locate the pointer to those ZF bushings.

SharkSkin

Dave, I'd sure appreciate that. I'm going to dig around for the reference to the delrin inserts -- I don't recall if dimensions were posted, but I'll measure the rack before it goes in. I think the early rack is a different size anyway.

SharkSkin

Well, the project is going well -- Bill's time estimate seems spot-on so far. Ron & I have it all taken apart, took the pan & xmember to a local car wash to clean them up & called it quits. The better half kept asking when we would finish so she could put my birthday dinner together & get on with that part of the evening. BTW, not only was yesterday my B-day, but it was the 28th anniversary of the first day my car was registered in Ca...

It's interesting to note that while the boots were indeed full of PS fluid, the little plastic hose fitting on the top of the rack nearest the gear had popped out, which is what had drained the fluid so quickly. The original engine mounts were toast, with one of the rubber blocks on each side being completely torn loose. I'm really glad now that I had the mounts on the WYAIT list.

Ah well, onward....

SharkSkin

Just finished checking my rod bearings. Dial indicator on a mag base attached to crank counterweights, and prying back and forth on the bearing in the direction of thrust(~30° from centerline) and 90° from that as a sanity check. Max about one needle width of play on the worst of them (maybe 0.0002", if that), two with barely discernable needle movement, the rest -- no discernable needle movement. Great! Now, on with the cleaning of oil pan bolt holes so I can loctite in the studs...

SharkSkin

Just knocked off a little while ago. Ron was upset that I didn't work him hard enough... If he comes by tomorrow I'll see what I can do to remedy that. So, pan, engine mounts and shocks are in. I had to trim 4 of the oil pan studs to clear the crossmember. Maybe that's not necessary with the later mounting scheme? We encountered various delays... a couple of times I had to go spelunking through boxes to find things, like safety glasses(I haven't unpacked the garage yet). I lost track of the bolts that hold the screen in the pan, we hunted around quite a bit before finding them wadded up in a paper towel on top of my radiator... We spent some time cleaning things, and went on a run to pick up oil. Turned out I didn't have enough for a change, and I needed more ATF to flush the rack properly.

Anyway, tomorrow the crossmember & rack go in. Bill if you're still up for it -- come on by. I can't guarantee I'll keep you busy, but I'll keep you entertained.

Airflite40

good progress...i didnt have to trim my oil pan studs. i dunno. happy to hear your bearings are ok!

Bill Ball

Dave:

I'll PM you for directions. I may not be able to help long, but I'll drop by and point out the things you forgot to do.

SharkSkin

Bill, I'm sure you will. PM sent.

Borys, you have the same solid mounts with two vulcanized rubber blocks rather than the round hydraulic mounts, right? I looked at the crossmember, looked at where it mates to the mount, looked at the mount... it looked like the studs would clear, but by maybe 1/8". I felt that it might be a problem as the mounts flex, especially over time as the mounts settle.