tomcat

I'm in the middle of my TB/WP job and am finding some things that aren't quite right. First, I found the ground for one of the coil wires dangling - can't wait to see if grounding it makes a difference. Been having some idle surging problems.

But the real pisser is related to the bracket behind the fan ('85 32V), above the crank pulley, that holds the throttle, transmission (Bowden?), etc. cables. While removing it I found the straight rod going straight back through the intake runners is not attached to anything. I removed the center "T" and still can't see anything the "little ball" will fit on.

Does anyone know what this rod does and what it is attached to?

SteveG

One is from accel pedal, and to throttle, guess that isn't it. Other is from cruise control.

Darien

Without seeing a pic, it sounds like the rod that connects to the throttle body from the throttle cable assy

tomcat

On the '85, the bracket is in the front (i.e., '86 and a half and later - on the side). There are three cables (braided line with insulation - throttle, trans, don't know the third) that are routed toward the driver's side, then back. The solid "rod" goes straight back from the bracket through the intake runners.

I'll try to get a picture.

sharkmeister85

I just went out and looked at mine. Its a 5 spd, but the only rod as you describe, is just as Darien said, connects throttle body to cable assembly.
Glenn

Big Dave

Yep, that connects to the throttle body. It's not good when that comes off and you're on the highway.

You won't getting to the highway until you reconnect it anyway. It's possible to reconnect with the intake in place, but it's tricky.

davek9

Here is an old pic I had taken for a"before" photo.
There is only one "rod" w/adjustment to the throttle body and there are two cables on my 5-spd; one goes to the peddle and one goes to the cruse control.

ope this helps!

davek9

Your right Big Dave, I had to replace mine as it started to do just that!
Sure glad I had a throttle return spring!

tomcat

Thanks guys. I assume the center "t" needs to come off. I have it loose, but can it be taken out with the adjacent runners in place? Seems like a tight fit.

Or do I need to remove the other intake runners?

Edit: Took the center "T" off and found the ball. Seems like a lot of things can be performed with the center "T" off.

Thanks.

davek9

Yes you should remove the sides first, it is much easer and really opens things up, once you do it a few times is is not difficult at all.

I usually loosen only all of the outside clamps, then remove the sides.
There is also a vacuum line to the brake booster on that side (drivers) also held in place via a clamp.
If you have a flex shaft clamp driver/wrench, this is the time to use it!

RngTrtl

I actuall popped mine back on in a bout 15 minutes by using several feet of 3/8 drive extentions and a pry bar to pop the ball end back onto the ball...It never occured to me to take the center T out, prolly was much less frustrating than hoe I did it

Denis_A_Couroux

Im having idle problems right now and I was wondering if you still are after reconnecting the throttle assembly ???
I resolved myself to accept that its my idle stabilizer....alas... unless I have other options....

Big Dave

I popped it back on while in a suit & tie sitting on the side of the highway. It's tricky, but it can be done. Just gotta feel around with the throttle linkage to find that ball.

Imo000

If your base idle is set too high or low, the idle stabilizer will not have enough time to compensate for it. I had to adjust mine and that pretty much fixed the engine from dieing when I took my foot off the throttle.
Do a shearch on a topic that I posted and you'll find how I fixed it. Its' a matter of jumping a couple pins and then adjusting a screw.

Denis_A_Couroux

Imo,
I jumped the 11 and 6 pm pins already and adjusted to 750 rpm ( eyeballed the dash dial ) to get a nice 600 rpm in D... however the jumper didnt have an effect on the idle to begin with so I went looking for a vacuum leak... still looking btw... however the idle is a steady fluctuation only at the red light.... wont cut out but does the 400 rpm up and down....
Is there a vacuum check thatt is VERY inflluencial that I can get to and just replace completely ? I noticed those hard straw like lines that could easily crack an d so on... I have to say that I love driving my car too and taking off the intakes and plenum havent been considered... I might have to resolve putting her in the garage for a while and taking the parts off to get to the gyst of the matter too....

Denis
'85 928S3 5.0L / 32V