Still wont run? Help please
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Hey all,
THis is an addition to another thread, but I cannot edit the thread title and with the title it has it will not gather the attention needed. The thread is "https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282496".
I am still having trouble with my car. I sent the LH to John Speake and he concluded that the computer was fine. I cannot seem to figure out what is wrong and why the car will still not start. I think it is giving itself too much fuel but I have no idea how it is doing this if the computer is ok. Anyone else had any experience with this problem?
Thank you for any help,
Jacob Duffney
THis is an addition to another thread, but I cannot edit the thread title and with the title it has it will not gather the attention needed. The thread is "https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282496".
I am still having trouble with my car. I sent the LH to John Speake and he concluded that the computer was fine. I cannot seem to figure out what is wrong and why the car will still not start. I think it is giving itself too much fuel but I have no idea how it is doing this if the computer is ok. Anyone else had any experience with this problem?
Thank you for any help,
Jacob Duffney
#2
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So, your LH is OK.
From the other thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/282496-need-an-87-928-in-albany-for-lh-brain-test.html
You have spark.
You have fuel in the rails.
Car will start on starter fluid.
This points to the injectors not firing as a good possibility. This can be verified with a noid light and injector tester. The noid light establishes whether the injectors are getting an electrical pulse and the injector tester listens for the solenoid action.
I can mail you my testers if you can't get them locally.
Another lister had a no-start condition like this. After verifying the injectors were not firing as I mentioned above, he located a short in one of the injector leads. This will prevent all the injectors from firing. Go ahead and remove the fuel rail covers and pop off the harness leads (they wiggle off each injector). Look for bad boot and look at the wiring inside the boots. That's how he found the short.
You could also look for 12V on the injector leads as Loren mentioned here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...57&postcount=5
From the other thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/282496-need-an-87-928-in-albany-for-lh-brain-test.html
You have spark.
You have fuel in the rails.
Car will start on starter fluid.
This points to the injectors not firing as a good possibility. This can be verified with a noid light and injector tester. The noid light establishes whether the injectors are getting an electrical pulse and the injector tester listens for the solenoid action.
I can mail you my testers if you can't get them locally.
Another lister had a no-start condition like this. After verifying the injectors were not firing as I mentioned above, he located a short in one of the injector leads. This will prevent all the injectors from firing. Go ahead and remove the fuel rail covers and pop off the harness leads (they wiggle off each injector). Look for bad boot and look at the wiring inside the boots. That's how he found the short.
You could also look for 12V on the injector leads as Loren mentioned here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...57&postcount=5
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If there is spark, then the crank sensor is good.
Hmmmm, I wonder how you know that, Andrew!
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JD, What leads you to believe it is gettin too much fuel? Bill, maybe a stuck or leaking injector?
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IF he has evidence he is flooding, then I'm kind of baffled. The LH is good. One or two bad injectors would not do it, especially if he airs out the cylinder and dries the plugs. It SHOULD start.
My impression is that he is getting ZERO firing despite spark and fuel in the rails, BUT the car fires immediately on starter fluid. That points to fuel starvation rather than flodding. With good fuel pressure (should be verified, if he has not already), then shorted injector lead is next on the list.
My impression is that he is getting ZERO firing despite spark and fuel in the rails, BUT the car fires immediately on starter fluid. That points to fuel starvation rather than flodding. With good fuel pressure (should be verified, if he has not already), then shorted injector lead is next on the list.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 07-20-2006 at 03:50 PM.
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can you call me and hold the exhaust up to the phone so i can listen to it as you crank it. I discussed this with my crystal ball and she has came back with no answers... I hope you can take a little joke.
IMO I think you have a fuel issue. be it injection or pump. or the lh... when you turn the ignition on can you hear a ticking? injectors? I know you said you had it tested...
IMO I think you have a fuel issue. be it injection or pump. or the lh... when you turn the ignition on can you hear a ticking? injectors? I know you said you had it tested...
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I don't remember exactly where I read this but it is easy and quick to do. Take any injector connector off. Read the resistance (with a volt meter set to resistance scale) of the injector that is disconnected (note down the reading). Then read the resistance on the plug that you pulled loose from the injector (note down that reading). If all is well the reading at the plug should be the reading from the injector divided by 7 since 7 injectors are still connected on the harness in parrallel.
example: If the one injector reads 14 ohms the the other 7 measure back through the harness should measure 2 ohms (14 divided by 7)
I don't remember the expected number. Can someone help me on where this proceedure is located? I know there was a number that was close.
example: If the one injector reads 14 ohms the the other 7 measure back through the harness should measure 2 ohms (14 divided by 7)
I don't remember the expected number. Can someone help me on where this proceedure is located? I know there was a number that was close.
#9
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Have you checked the fuel injection relay? When the relay fails the injectors will not fire. Easiest way to test it is to remove the aluminium cover from the relay and push the contact points together with your fingers, then, wile holding the point together crank the engine over. If the relay is bad, by holding the contacts, the egine should fire up.
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Ok so there is defiantly plenty of fuel to get atleast one pop out of the engine which is why I am pretty sure it is flooding, could an injector short and cause it to hold all of the injectors to stay open? I didn't think so seeing that if the computer doesn't send a signal there is no power to open the injector. So this is why I think it is a pressure problem. What do you think?
Jacob Duffney
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I agree with Imo000, sounds like the cold start is giving your engine enough fuel to run, but then the injectors aren't kicking in to keep it running. It's also good to put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, helps you rule out other issues if your pressure is good. Just my 2 cents though.
Chris
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I'm sorry, but I have to go back to WWJBS, relay, relay, relay.
In your previous thread you said you inspected the relays and fuses, but they looked okay. How did you inspect the relays? Did you swap them out with known good relays / try your relays in a running car?
Just want to go back over your stuff so far to make sure you don't go too far down the wrong path.
You'll get it figured out and the you'll feel like
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In your previous thread you said you inspected the relays and fuses, but they looked okay. How did you inspect the relays? Did you swap them out with known good relays / try your relays in a running car?
Just want to go back over your stuff so far to make sure you don't go too far down the wrong path.
You'll get it figured out and the you'll feel like
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* Guarantee not valid in all 50 states.
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I checked the relays by taking the aluminum case off and sight inspection and I also plugged the relay that swaps with the horn and tried that both work for the horn. I duno I guess I will check again. Thanks and keep the ideas comin!
Jacob Duffney
Jacob Duffney