wds928

I'm installing Koni's in place of my original gray Boge's.

I notice that I have to JBWeld the threaded collar onto the Koni so it won't rotate with the adjuster nut is used to raise or lower the car.

My question is the diameter of the shock tube itself. The lower spring perch on the Boge has about 1/32 of room between the hole and the shock body. With the Koni, there is about 1/16th and it's noticeable, like the spring perch will sort of wobble around.

Is this normal? I've put a couple of wraps of tape around the shock body so the fit has very little movement, but this seems Mickey Mouse.

Thoughts??

Vilhuer

Koni's are thinner than Boge's as you have found out. Mickey Mouse fix is all you can do if you want to use stock parts.

wds928

Erkka, thanks for the confirmation. I think I'll use some red electrical tape instead of black.

cobalt

The fronts should have come with a locking ring to jam the pearch in place.

wds928

Anthony:

The front threaded collar is only 1 inch tall. No locknut provided and I don't think there is room anyway. Install procedures from 928 Motorsports and other Rennlisters indicate that JBWeld is the way to install the threaded collars. The original Boge's had raised dots from the shock body onto which the threaded collar was jammed onto, so they wouldn't spin.

Garth S

As opposed to the el cheapo raised dots on the Boges, Konis have proper ring flanges welded to the body.
With the massive spring pressure forcing the perch, adjuster nut, threaded insert, and shock ring together, I've never had a problem with making adjustments on Konis in lieu of tape, JB weld, or bubblegum. The ring flange allows future disassembly vs the Boge 'dots' which usually demand a hacksaw for parts recovery.The Boges work like matches ...good for one strike.

wds928

Thanks Garth. I do like the ring flange on the Koni's. With the JBWeld, I'll be getting new threaded collars the NEXT time I do this, in about 100,000 miles.

cobalt

That is the first I have seen it done that way. The Bilsteins I have in the front of my GTS have threaded collars and jam nuts along with the Bilsteins on my turbo and the Konis on my 944. The jam nut is only 1/4 inch. It would appar the only reason for the threaded collar is for weight balancing, it gives no height adjustment as where all three set ups on my cars give me over 3 inches of adjustment in ride height.

wds928

I'll post some pics later tonight. The rear threaded sleeves are about 4 inches, but the fronts are only 1 inch. What's really strange though, is the front nut/collar is about 2.5 inches tall, whereas the rear is only 1 inch tall. Go figure!!

pmotts

I am trying to find the time to do this. After researching a bit it seems most don't need to do the JBWeld trick. If in fact you do need to I read where one lister used an epoxy that took only a few minutes to set as opposed to the JBWeld which takes 12 hours.

Garth S

Hi Anthony,
The threaded collar on the front does provide all the height adjustment, as is also provided on the rear- the same parts are used on both Boge & Koni, wheras ( as you correctly noted) the Bilsteins use threaded bodies.
The ~ 30mm collar is effectively concealed in the front as the perch and adjuster nut effectively 'umbrella' it: adequate range of adjustment is available as there is ~ 2:1 ratio of height increase to adjustmet input. The adjuster weighs a trivial 25g or so.

6.0-928S

Hi Bill,
I recommend talking to these guys, 'www.truechoicekoniracingservices.com', they KNOW Konis. Their prices aren't too bad either. They can do anything you want to a Koni & if you call them they're happy to help. I'd talk to them & get their advice. They sell Konis complete or will be glad to service what you have. They even restore old racing Konis.
Good luck,
Hammer

wds928

Hammer, thanks for the info.

I got a really great deal on the Koni's. It's just the little things. New bump stops, the hang up with the rear threaded collars, etc. I got the fronts assemble and installed tonight. UPS didn't come through with the rear collars and nuts, so hopefully tomorrow. If not, I'll miss the autocross on Saturday. I was really looking forward to that.

wds928

Here is a before picture of the rear Boge, before I started really trying to remove it. It's pretty useless now. I never could get this one off, altghough with a combination heat from a torch and 18" channel locks, I was able to rotate is, then beat on the top edge with a hammer on the channel locks to move it down some. The other one looks even worse!

Chris

With the rears you can sometimes get lucky, I was not. Cutting the shock either side of the adjuster and then putting a hacksaw down the tube was the only way to remove them.

Chris