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Has anyone seen an oil pump do this? Seized pump - internally broke apart.

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Old 07-13-2006, 01:15 PM
  #31  
Imo000
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
Ok, so as long as the "new" pump matches the design of the old pump I sould be good to go. So there is there a casting number on the pump?

Cool - good to know.

How about this theory: Maybe the shaft seal / bearing was going bad allowing the gear/impeller (whatever that thing is called) to wobble and hit that little bridge piece - eventually breaking a chunk off and taking it with it?

Yup, that is a possibilty. Is there any play in the bearing?
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Old 07-13-2006, 01:25 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Is there any play in the bearing?
I took out some of my frustration using my vice and a hammer to take the pump apart - so kinda hard to check that now.
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Old 07-13-2006, 02:40 PM
  #33  
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I say build the S4 motor. Its just about as much work. And you have other 928s anyway.
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Old 07-13-2006, 02:54 PM
  #34  
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bummer!!!

iirc, porsche switched to an aluminum pump gearset then back to steel later. I suspect there was a reason.... so I put steel in mine, figured the weight diff wasn't worth the headache.

guess I might try spinning the pump to build up some oil pressure before starting it or turning it over - if it's dry now, you could spin a bearing and/or grind up more stuff - if it hasn't yet.

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Old 07-13-2006, 02:55 PM
  #35  
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Brendan all he needs to do is put in an oil pump ...throw on a belt and GO ! The bearings should be fine it is an old 16 valve so no bent valves odds are it will be running and driving by Saturday night !
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Old 07-13-2006, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
Brendan all he needs to do is put in an oil pump ...throw on a belt and GO ! The bearings should be fine it is an old 16 valve so no bent valves odds are it will be running and driving by Saturday night !
True.
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Old 07-13-2006, 08:37 PM
  #37  
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then used a 90 degree drill & 15mm (I think) socket on the oil pump -
I hope this didn't have anything to do with it...
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Old 07-13-2006, 08:44 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by John Welch
I hope this didn't have anything to do with it...
If it did then it took a very long time to surface

Otherwise, please explain how this could damange anything - I'm all ears. When I did my head gaskets (last year) I was worried about the engine being dry, so I added 8 quarts and spun the gear. The RPM of the drill on the pump isn't even idle speed. There is no way this drill over tightened the bolt holding on the pump gear. It is an interesting thought though, something to ponder before I do it again.
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Old 07-13-2006, 09:02 PM
  #39  
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Slap it back together and turn the key....just pull the coil and watch the pressur egauge first pass around. I've watched people forget to put oil in cars at repair shops and turn the key only to hear the clatter and then shut down and fill...the customer never knew...
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Old 05-19-2010, 12:07 AM
  #40  
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Default Is there consensus of what caused this damage?

Sorry to bring back bad memories, but is there any consensus on the underlying cause of this damage:

Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:36 AM
  #41  
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Read all the way through this before I realised it's 4 years old. However in the photo Tuomo re-posted it's clear that the missing piece is at about 09:30. And that the pump siezed within approx 1/4 of a revolution. thus it's highly unlikely that any dbris went anywhere as there would have been no oil flow.

Only reason I can thing of for this to happen is a manufacturing defect that eventually caused fatigue and the tip of the slipper plate cracked off.
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:45 AM
  #42  
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Let's just say a misplaced foreign object was the culprit and the fact that 16V cars do not have a screen on the pick-up (mine does now). Sublimate nailed it in post #2.

Not my best moment playing auto mechanic. Good news is the same motor is still in the car.

Even if it were a valve bender, it never went out of cam timing. There were enough teeth on the belt to keep the cams spinning.
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