Removal of drivers door panel..
- anyway, it's not very difficult to take apart. Good luck 
07-10-2006, 08:18 AM
#3
Racer
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panel removal
the most important things to remember are:
make sure to get all the screws out before pulling especially the ones in the armrest space. also, on the round door lock assembly, pry the little cap off in the center to remove phillips head screw. Then unscrew the round part to remove. Dont force anything! Plastic is brittle.
make sure to get all the screws out before pulling especially the ones in the armrest space. also, on the round door lock assembly, pry the little cap off in the center to remove phillips head screw. Then unscrew the round part to remove. Dont force anything! Plastic is brittle.
07-10-2006, 09:30 AM
#5
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Search for extra screws too. I have seen 928s with extra screws added in the lower panel to make up for broken pop in mounts.
Greg's site has some notes : http://nichols.nu/cat06.htm
Greg's site has some notes : http://nichols.nu/cat06.htm
07-10-2006, 10:25 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
and the door lock cap center pops out then thier is the screw....then remove the rest....it dosnt pop off like american cars....found out the hard way, and a broken lock post...
carfull poping the panels off, the base is made of a pressed board and a material best discribed as BRITLE BOARD. BTW. Rick your 82 is super clean, real sharp and dosnt look like an 82...looks way newer....OPS should of read the other posts....alread listed...
carfull poping the panels off, the base is made of a pressed board and a material best discribed as BRITLE BOARD. BTW. Rick your 82 is super clean, real sharp and dosnt look like an 82...looks way newer....OPS should of read the other posts....alread listed...
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07-10-2006, 11:55 AM
#8
928 Collector
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NO
The most important part is to realise there is a hidden slide-out keyway above the door lock. So once everything is loose and you have the lower part of the panel pulled a few inches out, you MUST slide the panel forward about an inch to disengage that slider.
The most important part is to realise there is a hidden slide-out keyway above the door lock. So once everything is loose and you have the lower part of the panel pulled a few inches out, you MUST slide the panel forward about an inch to disengage that slider.
07-10-2006, 12:21 PM
#9
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The round plastic backing plate to the manual lock **** is threaded on and must be "unscrewed".
Make sure to disconnect the battery so when you pull the wires off the lights in the door you can't blow a fuse.
Make sure to disconnect the battery so when you pull the wires off the lights in the door you can't blow a fuse.
07-13-2006, 12:58 AM
#10
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
Heinrich has a good point. Just when it seems like everything should just pull off, it has to slide forward first. Couple other things...
1. You can get replacement pop pins if needed at 928 Int'l.
2. You might just need to open the storage flap and see if the hex bolts are tight in the storage space. Them'r quick to rattle if loose because its plastic on brittle board.
WYAI, consider lubing the window gears.
G'luck.
Tim
1. You can get replacement pop pins if needed at 928 Int'l.
2. You might just need to open the storage flap and see if the hex bolts are tight in the storage space. Them'r quick to rattle if loose because its plastic on brittle board.
WYAI, consider lubing the window gears.
G'luck.
Tim
07-13-2006, 07:53 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
I'm going in this aft. to repair/replace my outside door handle assembly ('the part that breaks'). Stay tuned for a blow by blow (knuckle scrape) post.
