Help with Flappy installation
07-01-2006, 05:39 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Help with Flappy installation
Hey Guys,
Bill Ball and I were putting my Flappy back together last weekend and work came to a halt
So I’m looking for guidance from someone wise enough to take notes/photos when they pulled one apart.
Here is the order we had starting from the bottom
• Flat washer
• Plastic collar
• Flat washer in between the 2nd plastic collar
• Spring
• Plastic collar
• Flat washer
• On the very top
• Flat washer
• C-clip
Now what we have is a small spring washer that we believe goes somewhere in the mix. Could it go all the way down at the bottom of the shaft to keep pressure on the 1st flat washer? That washer is recessed – I’m hopping someone can show us where this wave washer goes?
Bill Ball and I were putting my Flappy back together last weekend and work came to a halt
So I’m looking for guidance from someone wise enough to take notes/photos when they pulled one apart.Here is the order we had starting from the bottom
• Flat washer
• Plastic collar
• Flat washer in between the 2nd plastic collar
• Spring
• Plastic collar
• Flat washer
• On the very top
• Flat washer
• C-clip
Now what we have is a small spring washer that we believe goes somewhere in the mix. Could it go all the way down at the bottom of the shaft to keep pressure on the 1st flat washer? That washer is recessed – I’m hopping someone can show us where this wave washer goes?
Last edited by edco; 02-07-2013 at 02:08 AM.
07-01-2006, 05:56 PM
#2
Team Owner
Hi I believe that the wave washer goes on first then the flat, then plasic guide then spring then other plastic guide then flat washer then insert into bearings then flat on top then E clip. make sure that your new shaft bearings have the rubber seal positioned towards the outside of the intake also you may that after fitting the E clip that the shaft binds if so then remove the wave washer and reinstall put the throttle valve in last, as first you want to make sure the shaft will turn without binding, use loctite on the screws holding the throttle plate in place and dont try to stake them you can bend the shaft, also after fitting the shaft you might need to re adjust the nut looking thin thet the flappy actuator plate stops against this nut looking thing can be turned very slightly to act as a stop so the throttle plate wont bind in the closed position
07-01-2006, 06:03 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
That was my thinking as well, the plastic collar is recessed and that washer would be floating around, the wave washer looks to push up on the flat washer. I have the new bearings installed with the rubber seals towards the outside like you suggested 
How tight should the spring be pre-wound?
Thanks for the help
How tight should the spring be pre-wound?
Thanks for the help
Last edited by edco; 02-07-2013 at 02:08 AM.
07-01-2006, 06:53 PM
#4
Are you replacing your flappy bearings?
07-01-2006, 06:58 PM
#6
Can I ask where you sourced them? Did you do a thread on that?
07-01-2006, 07:08 PM
#7
Sharkaholic
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Hi! I believe that the wave washer goes on first, then the flat, then plasic guide, then the spring, then the other plastic guide, then the flat washer, then insert into the bearings, then flat on top, then the E clip. Make sure that your new shaft bearings have the rubber seal positioned towards the outside of the intake. Also you may find that after fitting the E clip that the shaft binds, if so then remove the wave washer and reinstall. Put the throttle valve in last, as first you want to make sure the shaft will turn without binding, use loctite on the screws holding the throttle plate in place and dont try to stake them you can bend the shaft. Also after fitting the shaft you might need to re adjust the nut looking thing that the flappy actuator plate stops against. This nut looking thing can be turned very slightly to act as a stop so the throttle plate wont bind in the closed position.
Glad I don't have to worry about a flappy on mine!
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07-01-2006, 07:09 PM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
I got them from DEVEK you can get them cheaper but they have them in stock and that’s was key as I could not get them quickly enough from my local bearing supply store 
I posted on the removal and had a link to all the details Click Here
The bearing number is HK10 12 RS DEVEK's price is $15 each
I posted on the removal and had a link to all the details Click Here
The bearing number is HK10 12 RS DEVEK's price is $15 each
07-01-2006, 08:27 PM
#9
Team Owner
Hi the spring should be just enough to close the flappy with slight pressure,dont over wind it. try about 1/2 or so if that makes sense, and also make sure the stop (the nut looking thing that the flappy arm hits)is working so the throttle plate is just closed but not binding
07-02-2006, 12:26 PM
#10
Drifting
I think the wavy washer should be positioned on top of the manifold, just under the flat washer and clip, so as to pull UP on the shaft.
Reasoning being, the rubber cap on top of the manifold is a vacuum seal, while there is none on the bottom. The flat washers/shims, while compressed (by the wavy washer) act to provide sealing of intake vacuum at the bottom.
Reasoning being, the rubber cap on top of the manifold is a vacuum seal, while there is none on the bottom. The flat washers/shims, while compressed (by the wavy washer) act to provide sealing of intake vacuum at the bottom.
07-02-2006, 12:34 PM
#11
Team Owner
Hi the seal is done by the bearings on the flappy shaft they both contain a rubber O ring, that is why they are positioned with the O ring seal positioned to the outside of the manifold they also function to keep out dirt from the bearings. The rubber cap on top of the manifold is to keep water and dirt from getting into the top bearing it doesnt perform as a seal to the manifold as it is a loose fit
06-17-2007, 05:26 PM
#12
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
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Good pics thanks Ed. The first washer makes no sense as it does not touch any surface when assembled as shown. And therefore the wbbly lifter washer also. I think one should add a larger OD washer so it can rest against the first plastic spring stop and the arm mechanism. I was too lazy so I assembed is as follows:
Arm (end of shaft)
Plastic hub concave toward arm
Spring
Plastic hub
wobbly raiser washer
thin washer
intake bottom bearing
resonance valve disc
intake upper bearing
flat thickerwasher
circlip
I discovered that when the wobbly washer was at the top as Stan describes, it pulled the valve disc too far up and it bound.
Arm (end of shaft)
Plastic hub concave toward arm
Spring
Plastic hub
wobbly raiser washer
thin washer
intake bottom bearing
resonance valve disc
intake upper bearing
flat thickerwasher
circlip
I discovered that when the wobbly washer was at the top as Stan describes, it pulled the valve disc too far up and it bound.
Last edited by heinrich; 06-17-2007 at 06:06 PM.
06-17-2007, 06:00 PM
#13
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: South Africa
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Matt, you are in luck, I have just taken mine apart and carefully tied the parts together without separating them.
From the end of the shaft with the arm on it, in sequence;
Plastic spring holder
Spring
Thin washer
Wavy washer
Thin washer
Plastic spring holder
Thin washer
Into intake
Flap plate
Thick washer
Circlip
I also noted the preload on the spring was only half a turn.
From the end of the shaft with the arm on it, in sequence;
Plastic spring holder
Spring
Thin washer
Wavy washer
Thin washer
Plastic spring holder
Thin washer
Into intake
Flap plate
Thick washer
Circlip
I also noted the preload on the spring was only half a turn.
06-17-2007, 06:08 PM
#14
928 Collector
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Weird. The thin washer with the wavy washer cannot possibly compress the wavy washer as it presses agaist nothing on that (in)side of the plastic?
06-17-2007, 06:31 PM
#15
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Heinrich, that's how it is on my car, & i have the service history, the intake has never been off before.
The layout keeps the plastic collars apart, there is no way to keep the top collar off the arm as there is a recess which would need about 10 thin washers to fill. The inside of the collars has no recess, just flat surfaces. I think this is to allow the two collars to rotate independantly, to prevent any friction as there is so little preload on the spring.
I can't figure Porsche's plan here, as the bottom bearing is not sealed from the outside for dust, their internal seal is on the inner side !
The layout keeps the plastic collars apart, there is no way to keep the top collar off the arm as there is a recess which would need about 10 thin washers to fill. The inside of the collars has no recess, just flat surfaces. I think this is to allow the two collars to rotate independantly, to prevent any friction as there is so little preload on the spring.
I can't figure Porsche's plan here, as the bottom bearing is not sealed from the outside for dust, their internal seal is on the inner side !