Lets try this again. (starts then "almost" dies, then staggers, then runs great)
#1
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Thread Starter
Lets try this again. (starts then "almost" dies, then staggers, then runs great)
Okay on my 82 5 speed, it starts great, but then doesn't want to run for a couple of minutes. It seems to be loading up, a couple of revs after about two minutes will clear its throat and then it runs great. Just letting it idle for a few minutes doesn't necessarily clear it. It is worse on cold start , but will do it sometimes on warm or hot start.
I've: (not in order)
1. switched out the MAF
2. replaced the plugs and wires
3. switched out the auxilary air valve - even though the old one tested to work
4. put in all new vaccum lines (and tested all vaccum lines)
5. switched out the high and low throttle switches.
6. replaced the plenum boots
7. unplugged the cold start injector - no change
8. thoroughly cleaned all grounds
9. removed the vaccum limiter and plugged the outlets
10. replaced the MAF "o" ring in the throttle body
11. replaced the throttle body/plenum connector
12. replaced the temp II sensor
I understand the "brain" was swapped out and it made no difference.
My brain is about ready to be swapped out, since it is exhausted.
It clearly acts like it has too much fuel and needs to be cleared out before it will run after start up. I really love his car and want to get the @#@#@$@ thing running correctly on start up. The compression and leakdown are well within limits.
I really had arrived at the conclusion that the cold start injector was not shutting off immediately, but disconnecting made no difference, except to cause it to start a bit harder.
Could it be an injector leaking upon start-up? It sometimes does the same thing when hot.
WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY BABY?
Rod
I've: (not in order)
1. switched out the MAF
2. replaced the plugs and wires
3. switched out the auxilary air valve - even though the old one tested to work
4. put in all new vaccum lines (and tested all vaccum lines)
5. switched out the high and low throttle switches.
6. replaced the plenum boots
7. unplugged the cold start injector - no change
8. thoroughly cleaned all grounds
9. removed the vaccum limiter and plugged the outlets
10. replaced the MAF "o" ring in the throttle body
11. replaced the throttle body/plenum connector
12. replaced the temp II sensor
I understand the "brain" was swapped out and it made no difference.
My brain is about ready to be swapped out, since it is exhausted.
It clearly acts like it has too much fuel and needs to be cleared out before it will run after start up. I really love his car and want to get the @#@#@$@ thing running correctly on start up. The compression and leakdown are well within limits.
I really had arrived at the conclusion that the cold start injector was not shutting off immediately, but disconnecting made no difference, except to cause it to start a bit harder.
Could it be an injector leaking upon start-up? It sometimes does the same thing when hot.
WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY BABY?
Rod
Last edited by Rod Underwood; 06-28-2006 at 07:37 PM.
#2
Team Owner
try removing the cold start valve see if it is leaking you can leave the fuel line connected
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
try removing the cold start valve see if it is leaking you can leave the fuel line connected
Rod
#4
Inventor
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I don't see the thermo-time switch on your list?
I wonder if the L-Jet air bypass ports in the head can get clogged up?
Does your new (still used?) cold start valve get over 1500rpm initially on a cold start?
I don't have any of the cold start system installed, just some trickery with the TempII. Anyhu, because I don't have the air bypass valve, I have to blip it up to 2000rpm after starting from dead cold, to clear out gas and water condensation, or the car will bog when trying to take off.
I wonder if the L-Jet air bypass ports in the head can get clogged up?
Does your new (still used?) cold start valve get over 1500rpm initially on a cold start?
I don't have any of the cold start system installed, just some trickery with the TempII. Anyhu, because I don't have the air bypass valve, I have to blip it up to 2000rpm after starting from dead cold, to clear out gas and water condensation, or the car will bog when trying to take off.
#5
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Mine was doing the same thing (as you know) - installing the blower cleared it up.
Just kidding...
I found my #3 intake runner had two gaskets under it - not sealing for sh*t. Do what I did to find it. Attack your engine (while running) with a bottle of brake cleaner - spray everything that has a seal.
My car has been running much better when cold. Still burps a bit the first time I hit the gas when it's ice cold - but runs fine other than that.
Just kidding...
I found my #3 intake runner had two gaskets under it - not sealing for sh*t. Do what I did to find it. Attack your engine (while running) with a bottle of brake cleaner - spray everything that has a seal.
My car has been running much better when cold. Still burps a bit the first time I hit the gas when it's ice cold - but runs fine other than that.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by PorKen
I don't see the thermo-time switch on your list?
Okay, I am ignorant on this one, where is it? and is there a substitute as for the temp II?
I wonder if the L-Jet air bypass ports in the head can get clogged up?
?????
Does your new (still used?) cold start valve get over 1500rpm initially on a cold start?
The car will start and idle high after just a few seconds. It will seem great, but when I let out on the clutch to move, and the RPM's drop, it will really sound like it's going to die. If I try to continue, it will die. I need to depress the clutch and rev it up a bit and try to clear it out and eventually, after a couple of trys sometimes, it take right off and it's fine from then on.
I don't have any of the cold start system installed, just some trickery with the TempII. Anyhu, because I don't have the air bypass valve, I have to blip it up to 2000rpm after starting from dead cold, to clear out gas and water condensation, or the car will bog when trying to take off.
Okay, I am ignorant on this one, where is it? and is there a substitute as for the temp II?
I wonder if the L-Jet air bypass ports in the head can get clogged up?
?????
Does your new (still used?) cold start valve get over 1500rpm initially on a cold start?
The car will start and idle high after just a few seconds. It will seem great, but when I let out on the clutch to move, and the RPM's drop, it will really sound like it's going to die. If I try to continue, it will die. I need to depress the clutch and rev it up a bit and try to clear it out and eventually, after a couple of trys sometimes, it take right off and it's fine from then on.
I don't have any of the cold start system installed, just some trickery with the TempII. Anyhu, because I don't have the air bypass valve, I have to blip it up to 2000rpm after starting from dead cold, to clear out gas and water condensation, or the car will bog when trying to take off.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
Mine was doing the same thing (as you know) - installing the blower cleared it up.
Just kidding...
I found my #3 intake runner had two gaskets under it - not sealing for sh*t. Do what I did to find it. Attack your engine (while running) with a bottle of brake cleaner - spray everything that has a seal.
My car has been running much better when cold. Still burps a bit the first time I hit the gas when it's ice cold - but runs fine other than that.
Just kidding...
I found my #3 intake runner had two gaskets under it - not sealing for sh*t. Do what I did to find it. Attack your engine (while running) with a bottle of brake cleaner - spray everything that has a seal.
My car has been running much better when cold. Still burps a bit the first time I hit the gas when it's ice cold - but runs fine other than that.
I've tried the spray before, but it sure won't hurt to try it again.
Rod
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by PorKen
I don't see the thermo-time switch on your list?
I wonder if the L-Jet air bypass ports in the head can get clogged up?
Does your new (still used?) cold start valve get over 1500rpm initially on a cold start?
I don't have any of the cold start system installed, just some trickery with the TempII. Anyhu, because I don't have the air bypass valve, I have to blip it up to 2000rpm after starting from dead cold, to clear out gas and water condensation, or the car will bog when trying to take off.
I wonder if the L-Jet air bypass ports in the head can get clogged up?
Does your new (still used?) cold start valve get over 1500rpm initially on a cold start?
I don't have any of the cold start system installed, just some trickery with the TempII. Anyhu, because I don't have the air bypass valve, I have to blip it up to 2000rpm after starting from dead cold, to clear out gas and water condensation, or the car will bog when trying to take off.
And, I haven't replaced the cold start valve yet. I just unplugged it and no change, except a harder start. Is that something that I just need to break down and do?
Rod
#9
How's the cap ? Really thick oil ? Wrong plug gap ? Dirty injectors ?Partially clogged injectors do not spray a fog. They spray a stream, and it won't vaporize in a cold engine. Techtron and a half tank of gas, or berrymans. As they say, pour it and floor it. Any excuse works for me.
#10
Inventor
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The thermo-time switch controls the duration of the cold start injector opening. It's the brown connector on the front of the coolant bridge (TempII is on top of the bridge).
It only gets power during cranking, and limits the cold start injector to a max of (7?) seconds, depending on coolant temp.
It doesn't sound like either of the cold start aux air valves you put in are opening far enough initially. There was a great thread about tuning the valve (here).
The first start of the day, after you start the car, rev it slowly up to 1500rpm, then blip it up over 2000rpm for a second. That should blow out the condensation.
It only gets power during cranking, and limits the cold start injector to a max of (7?) seconds, depending on coolant temp.
It doesn't sound like either of the cold start aux air valves you put in are opening far enough initially. There was a great thread about tuning the valve (here).
The first start of the day, after you start the car, rev it slowly up to 1500rpm, then blip it up over 2000rpm for a second. That should blow out the condensation.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Daniel Dudley
How's the cap ? Really thick oil ? Wrong plug gap ? Dirty injectors ?Partially clogged injectors do not spray a fog. They spray a stream, and it won't vaporize in a cold engine. Techtron and a half tank of gas, or berrymans. As they say, pour it and floor it. Any excuse works for me.
Don't know about the injectors, but I've run two cycles of Techtron and it seems to make no difference. Runs great afte my start ordeal. I had to replace the fuel pump (and filter) and when draining the tank,it was clean as you could imagine.
I'm happy to floor it, but, so far no luck. ;-)
Thanks,
Rod
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by PorKen
The thermo-time switch controls the duration of the cold start injector opening. It's the brown connector on the front of the coolant bridge (TempII is on top of the bridge).
It only gets power during cranking, and limits the cold start injector to a max of (7?) seconds, depending on coolant temp.
It doesn't sound like either of the cold start aux air valves you put in are opening far enough initially. There was a great thread about tuning the valve (here).
The first start of the day, after you start the car, rev it slowly up to 1500rpm, then blip it up over 2000rpm for a second. That should blow out the condensation.
It only gets power during cranking, and limits the cold start injector to a max of (7?) seconds, depending on coolant temp.
It doesn't sound like either of the cold start aux air valves you put in are opening far enough initially. There was a great thread about tuning the valve (here).
The first start of the day, after you start the car, rev it slowly up to 1500rpm, then blip it up over 2000rpm for a second. That should blow out the condensation.
I'll replace the thermo-time switch and see if that helps.
I regularlly do the start rev, etc, but it's just a pain in the parking lot, (you know what I mean), and I wish it wasn't necessary.
I tried to call MrMerlin to see how you pull the cold start injector without detaching the lines. I'll try to get him later or tomorrow and pursue that as well. I assume I need to start it to pressurize the system and then immediately pull the injector.
I just tired spraying again to find vaccum links, but nothing shows up.
Thanks for the help,
Rod
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jack Riffle
You cannot remove the cold start injector without removing the fuel line. And there is no way to plug off that line if you did remove it. You can remove the harness plug that provides power to the cold start injector and see if that helps. The openings in the back of the cylinder heads for the cold start air fuel mixture (air bypass) is at least 3/8" in diameter and I wouldn't suspect them of being plugged up. You seem to have covered most of the obvious suspects...........hmmmm.....possibly a partially plugged catalytic converter? Maybe even a bad O2 sensor.
I've replaced the exhaust system with an 87 with dual cats and then duals on back - that made no difference in the way it ran, it just sounds a lot better when it does run.
I also replaced the O2 sensor as well. I forgot to mention that.
Thanks, keep the suggestions coming.
Rod
#14
Inventor
Rennlist Member
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You can plug the line with a bolt and cap nut, like so: