Carl Fausett

I have just finished 2 weeks of driving a 928 Euro S with this modification on it - the temp gauge in the car is cooler than it was before, and the the kit performs as designed.

I am ready to start selling it now.

Here is the link and some pictures about it:
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...eplacement.php

It is not meant for supercharged cars - the fan is likely to be in the way of the SC fan pulley. Other than that, it would work fine.

If your supercharged car would like some additional cooling, I'd recommend this kit instead:
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/auxfan.php

The Problem: Many of the old viscous-clutch fans are starting to fail in the field as they get on in years. The seals dry out, the silicone fluid inside leaks out, and then the fan either seizes up or pinwheels. If it seizes up, you are loosing gas mileage and HP. If it pinwheels, you will see your temp gauge climbing to new heights in city traffic.

Even when they were working, they barely turn at idle - and that is when you need them the most when stuck in traffic. And the gap between the fan blade and the radiator shroud was so big it harmed fan efficiency as well.

Technology has improved since these were built, and we can now do better.

The Solution: This Kit will replace that old, inefficient fan with a new electric 3000 CFM unit that will keep your 928 engine cooler on the hottest of days... and save you gas and HP too!

Hi Performance, not High Noise: Just because our electric fan moves more than TWICE as much air as the OEM fan doesn't mean that it is louder. Drawing on the latest technology in "S" shaped blades, the fan moves 3000 CFM but is quieter than the fan you have now. Draws less than 17 amps.

Quality Components: Our kit uses a high-quality, heavy-duty thermal switch that requires no relays. This simplifies the installation. The radiator hose connector is made by us from an aluminum billet and cannot leak because it has no seams. Clamps are stainless steel. Wiring connectors are waterproof.

Simple Installation: We designed this kit for an easy top-of-the-motor installation. Even the coolant does not have to be drained from your system to install our thermal switch. The fan is already shrouded and clocked in the right direction when you get it. Typical time to remove the old fan and install the new one is less than 1 hour with ordinary hand tools.

Complete Kit: Everything you need is included: 3000 CFM Hi-efficiency electric fan

•Billet Upper Radiator Hose Fan Switch Holder
•Hi Quality Heavy Duty Thermal Switch
•In line fuse holder with Fuse
•All wiring with connectors already attached
•Special fan mounting ties
•New Gates brand Smog Pump belt
•Stainless Steel Hose clamps
•Easy-to-follow instructions

fbarnhill

Carl,
This thing looks awsome. I have put it on my list to purchase. It is right behind my cv joint rebuilds. I have been thinking along these lines but was worried about the wiring. Looks like you have made a kit that even I can understand. Good Job

Imo000

Carl,
Nice work!

You might want to revise the billet tube a littel and leave a small ridge at each end. The ridge will keep the temp switch adapter tube more secure in the rad hose and reducing the chance of a slip off.

mark kibort

what do you need the switch for?? just use the stockswitch at the bottom of the radiator that controls the AC fan, in front. i used the same fan you guys are using, and in parallel with the front ac fan. both together make a higher pressure fan to over come the resistance of the AC condensor in the way, or with race cars, provide additional cooling. put both the ac fans in parallel with the switch, and they both come on at just over the half way temp point. if you want them to come on and run earlier, i suppose you can change the switch at the bottle of the radiator with a lower temp version

Note: remember all the talk of the BIG hp gained by removing the driven fan. I think you have proved that wrong too. 17amps making more air flow than the stock fan. thats 221watts, and at 50% efficiency of the motor, thats around 120 watts Net power to the fan, or near .13 HP or 1/8hp
sure a far cry from the 3-5hp folks were tosssing around !!! by the way, just went out to my AC in my home. its the exact same diamter , number of blades and blade pitch of the driven fan of our cars. its powered by 1/4 hp electric motor and it blows a BUNCH more air than our cars ever do with the driven fan at near the same max rpm. thats 1/8hp as well, mechanical energy! so, forget about hp savings or even gas mileage savings. its just more simple, gives you more room , and works well.

mk

Shane

Just asking about this a few hours ago:
Fan and shroud thread

Could have been some one stop shopping for me.

Carl Fausett

Mark:

we recommend the use of the separate thermal switch because the factory switch is 1) 20 years old and 2) designed to use a relay, and 3) already is operating one fan. It will not operate two fans at once - one without a relay - and last very long.

Then there is the NASA montra - back up systems, back up systems, backup systems. No system should be designed where one temp switch could fail and all the radiator fans die. I'd rather have two independent systems - like this.

As to mileage and HP claims.... I have stayed away from that topic on purpose, but that doesn't mean they do not exist. Just hard to reliably measure. There is no such thing as "free energy" - so we have transfered the power it took to turn a fan blade into the additional power it will take to turn the alternator because of the new electric fan. True.

But: the new electric fan does not run at sustained speeds above about 40 MPH where it will shut itself off. And that IS a real savings.

hacker-pschorr

Anyone care to share what terminals one would tap into to use the factory switch? I already have electric fans wired to a relay - activated by a switch in the interior. I could easily re-route these wires to the factory switch if I knew what tabs / terminal I was looking for.

Thanks!

Carl,
I agree with the idea of having duel systems - for those of us without the front fan my want to use the factory switch? Just throwing that out there. Wiring in a relay isn't a big deal.

Randy V

Nice - looks to be a well-thought-out design.

Drewster67

I love my twin set up.

One stock AC fan 1200CFM pushing and one 18" Perma Cool 2950CFM Pulling.

Carl Fausett

Drewster - those Perma-Cool fans with the stainless blades are very well made. But some don't like how loud they tend to be....

The S-blade we use moves as much air but does so very quitely. Did you know that the S-blade design comes from the US Navy? Technology derived for quiet propulsion of US Nuclear Submarines.

Drewster67

You are right - the perma cool fan is quite loud ...but not as loud as my exhaust! LOL My only real concern is if the zip ties break.

Nice work on your fan packages!

D_Schultz

Shhhhh! Loose lips sink ships

David Schultz
ex nuc electrician's mate SSBN 617 & SSN 721


p.s.: Looks like a great design/package. I'd consider it solely for hp/mpg gains (since my '83 euro runs smack in the middle of the band whether it is 30 F or 110 F ambient).

mark kibort

Its pretty easy to replace that switch at the base of the radiator with a new one, but then it becomes a single point of failure. It sounds like you leave the AC fan circuit in place, and add an entirely different circuit with your switch/relay set up for the high flow fan.

on my car, i have a dual redundant system. i have one fan of the S4 fans on the stock late model switch on the radiator, with a new separate relay. the other fan is on a separate relay which is operated with a manual switch inside the cockpit.

worst case, i have one fan of the two running. one runs at 14amps or so, two runs at 30amps and are pretty quiet and efficient. probably they are running about 1500cfm a piece. (stock S4 fans)


Mk