DANdeMAN

I will try that...
By full cold, you mean upper slider to the far left and should the AC be on or off?
So vacuum on the heater valve equals closed??? Can you or anyone confirm that?

thanks

85fortheDrive

Dan:

Orange line/loop in attached pic shows location of coolant window.

If I'm seeing sporadic bubbles in this window, I need more coolant, no? If so, what do I do about the R12/R134 situation. I'm guessing I can't find R12 any more.

DANdeMAN

Thanks Tim.

Bill Ball

R12 is still available at AC shops. Your car would have a sticker if it were converted to R134. R12 is available to anyone who is certified for Section 609. I won't delve into the arguments about which way to go if you do need a charge.

The off and defroster (blast furnace) settings are operating correctly. Everything else sounds suspect. The airflow is vacuum controlled, and where the vacuum goes in response to the slider is controlled by solenoid valves. The apparatus is located in the center console behind the radio. You can get to it by removing the carpeted console sidepanels.

The source of the vacuum is a 4-way rubber connector next to the brake booster. You will see that one of the lines goes off into the upper firewall into the passenger compartment. Pull that off and see if it holds vacuum (you'll need a MitiVac tool). I suspect it does not. Then move to that solenoid control pod I mentioned behind the radio and test each hose that emanates from the pod and goes to the final actuators. They should hold vacuum.... Ah, heck, why reinvent the wheel, when John Pirtle already did it (I just discovered as I was searching around for some pictures).

http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc_act.html

DANdeMAN

Thanks Bill and defacto Jhon Pirtle for that write up...

SharkSkin

Correct.

DANdeMAN

Where is the HVAC head?
Are there any other places apart the from fuse panel I should look that has fuses or relays? (and there location please)

the flyin' scotsman

The HVAC head is the unit you operate from inside the car to control heat temp and directional air flow.

SharkSkin

What Malcom said. Also, don't just go digging in there and replacing the relay because you have an undiagnosed problem. Make sure the relay really is kaput before replacing it. If it's still OK, you can extend it's life almost indefinitely by wiring in a power relay to take the load off the one in the HVAC head.

DANdeMAN

Update :
1) Until I fix the problem, I closed the heat valve permenatly.
2) Checked vacuum from the main black hose(under the hood) and it holds vacuum.
2) Put AC on and the clutch is NOT turning at all - it does turn by hand.
3) All fuses in panel are good

I guess my next step is the HVAC relay and indivual vacuum lines

Thanks guys

Bill Ball

Dave advises against replacing that relay just because it has a bad reputation - good advice. My system malfunctioned, and I thought, hey, it's probably the notorious relay. Nope. The Freon had leaked out. You need to work backwards through the switches (pressure, freeze) to make sure it is not one of them before you blame the relay. Also, does 12V applied to the compressor clutch wire casue the compressor to run. If not, the clutch is the problem.

DANdeMAN

I need explecite information on how to do those things, as I am a complete novice in the electrical departement.
What do I need to check relays/switches, how do I apply 12V to the clutch? Engine runing, not runing?
Sorry for my infentile needs

docmirror

I'm reluctant to give advice on jumpering the clutch to a novice. so many things can go wrong and cause further trouble. Please take the car to an AC shop with your WSM wiring page printed out, and let them diagnose it a bit. could be a thermo switch, could be low coolant, but most probable failing unit is the weak relay on the board of the HVAC head. If it's that, the shop won't be able to replace it, and you will either need a new HVAC head(not recommended) or have the relay replaced. I know that you would like to proceed on your own, but the AC shop might be a good investment as they can jumper the clutch, check the fluid, and the thermo switches for you. At least you will eliminate some possible problems.

If you are not comfortable doing the relay job yourself, you can ship it to me and I will do it for you. If you buy a used HVAC head you most likely will have trouble with this relay in the future. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I just don't want you to fry anything by jumpering hot wires, and arcing something. If you don't have a multi-meter, you can't do much testing anyway.

Doc

SharkSkin

Do you have the tech doc CD? If so, look in the electrical folder at the "Basic Training" pdf(partial filename). Skip or skim the heavy math first time through, the rest gives a very good overview of how electricity works and techniques for testing circuits. Use that as a basis for your next round of questions.

Bill Ball

Try this:
https://www.928gt.com/t-wallyhvac.aspx