Upper ball joints
05-19-2006, 05:03 PM
#16
No Writup that I recall. The busuings are a pressout deal. When you see it, and the vice before you, you will probably see that its not that difficult, just some head scratching and a good couple pulls on the vice.
Press out the threaded studs before you do anything else though.
Press out the threaded studs before you do anything else though.
05-19-2006, 05:14 PM
#18
One, honestly, that has a very wide jaw length. I got a big blue one from HF, and it just barely did the job.
05-19-2006, 05:14 PM
#19
Although if you get that press that t hey sell that may also work!
05-19-2006, 05:34 PM
#22
Originally Posted by icsmike
They? am I mising something here? This has been a strange post. ALmost like I need to read in between the lines.
Upper A-arms on t he 928 have the bushings for the pivot and the ball joints for the hub carrier part. The ball joints on t he 78-86(early) are replaceble via the kit that carl has put together, and I think its great for early cars, as many need it badly.
The later Car ball joints are non-replaceble at the moment, but there is a movement underfoot to try and make an entire arm with a replaceable ball joint. Hopefully that will happen before I am 80.
The inner "bushings" are available through your favorite retailer, and are Urethane. They are replaced by pressing out the two studs that hold the arm to the engine wall, and then pressing out that horozontal shaft that hold the pivot points for the "A" point of the arm. That comming out involves the bushings comming out, and if you look at the arm, it will make sense. They have metal centers, so its not just a "destroy the rubber" issue with getting them out. You need to take pictures to record the shoulder direction, as under braking the car will push in one direction on the bushings.
I don't have any pics, sorry, but I have done this three times, and its diffiicult without the perfect tools. I improvised with a large vice, but I think it would be easier with a press.
05-19-2006, 05:50 PM
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ahhhh much better thanks. Man had me confused there. So there is no replacement for the "rubber" on the upper ball joint, just the bushings for the A arm where it attaches to the inner body right?
05-19-2006, 05:56 PM
#24
Originally Posted by icsmike
Ahhhh much better thanks. Man had me confused there. So there is no replacement for the "rubber" on the upper ball joint, just the bushings for the A arm where it attaches to the inner body right?
The boot can be replaced, but when you take off the boot, you will see the actual ball joint (a phercial ball inside a tight socket of the same shape - a Ball joint) - and that part, on 86.5 and up, is not currently fixable.
05-19-2006, 06:28 PM
#26
Its more sealed up then the early cars - I wouldn't hold my breath, unfortunatley. I do want to make a new arm though.
05-19-2006, 06:40 PM
#27
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Take the boot off, clean out the ball joint with Q-tips, regrease, and install a new boot. If not, you'll just keep getting more dirt in there which will kill the joint faster.
05-19-2006, 06:55 PM
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
But there is no boot left, and it looks like its too far gone. My wheel set inward at an angle only thing that was loose or looked bad was a tie rod, which i replaced then I noticed the ball joint. Is this the only thing that can cause a wheel to set in like this>
05-19-2006, 07:02 PM
#30
If the adjusters on the concentrics on the LOWER ball joint loosen, it can move out the bottom of the wheel.