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A/C control relay modification

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Old 05-01-2006, 10:37 PM
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j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
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Default A/C control relay modification

Well I had been reading about the under-sized relay in the A/C control head of my 84S. I decided that I would use a couple of extra relays that I had. I mounted them near the jump post. I found the A/C compressor clutch wire just above the PS timing belt cover, cut the wire and used it to control the new relays. One relay turns on the clutch powered from a fused connection to the jump post. The other relay grounds the refrigerant temp. switch connection above the receiver-drier(switch is disconnected). Grounding this activates the factory auxilliary fan relay thus turning on the pusher fan in front of the condenser/radiator.
Results:
Each time I turn on A/C, the control head only has to switch milliamps rather than amps and the Aux. cooling fan turns on too. I'm using R134 so I think this will help keep temps and pressures down a little.
One factory wire was cut and soldered, one refrig. switch disconnected.
I think this combines one of Wally's suggestions about fan control with a fix of a common weakness in our A/C control head. It took about an hour. If I can figure out how I'll post a diagram if anyone wants.
Dave McK.
Old 05-01-2006, 11:34 PM
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Nice bit of proactive maintenance there Dave! Seems like many folks wait for it to break, then go about fixing it...
Old 05-02-2006, 05:52 PM
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SteveG
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Please, a diagram.
Old 05-02-2006, 06:55 PM
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jeff jackson
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Yep ...Me too. Although simple in strategy, an actual schematic would be most helpful for those, that may be less than 12VDC circuit proficient.
Thanks...
Old 05-02-2006, 07:13 PM
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I'll got on it.
Old 05-03-2006, 02:02 PM
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Not able to post diagram from my scanner so I'll type it:

1.) Interrupt wire from AC control head to compressor (located near top PS timing belt cover)
2.) Disconnect refrigerant temp switch on top receiver drier. This leaves two wires available one is a ground one is from AC fan relay.
3.) Add two new generic SPST relays. Connect as follows:

RELAY I: 85 from AC control head
86 to ground
30 to 12V at jump post via 10 amp fuse
87 to AC compressor clutch

RELAY II: 85 from AC control head
86 to ground
30 to ground
87 to AC fan relay (striped wire from disconnected refrig temp sw.)

I didn't use any diodes.
I notice that the AC fan does pull some power since my voltmeter drops at idle and the fan is not silent by any means.
Good luck,
Dave McK.

Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 05-03-2006 at 02:03 PM. Reason: typo
Old 05-03-2006, 03:41 PM
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dr bob
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email the drawing to me in your graphic format and I'll make it a PDF so it can be downloaded. dr.bobf [at] att.net should do the trick.
Old 05-03-2006, 06:45 PM
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Thanks to Dr. Bob for helping me post my somewhat crude diagram.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf
Old 05-07-2006, 08:49 PM
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OK
I found out why the factory didn't have the AC fan come on every time the AC comes on: The alternator/ battery can't handle it. After 5 days, the car stalled and I needed to recharge the battery.
I returned my AC fan to refrig switch control and left the compressor relay as described.
I'll see how the R134 works and I have been looking at Carl's high output alternator just in case.
FWIW,
Dave McK.

Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 05-08-2006 at 09:54 AM. Reason: clarification
Old 05-08-2006, 12:38 PM
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Lorenfb
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A much simpler solution is to get a rebuilt unit from 928 International.
Old 05-08-2006, 04:34 PM
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jeff jackson
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Originally Posted by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
OK
I found out why the factory didn't have the AC fan come on every time the AC comes on: The alternator/ battery can't handle it. After 5 days, the car stalled and I needed to recharge the battery.
I returned my AC fan to refrig switch control and left the compressor relay as described.
I'll see how the R134 works and I have been looking at Carl's high output alternator just in case.
FWIW,
Dave McK.
With a 115 amp alternator...its hard to believe isn't it ??? I have an aftermaket Alpine amp (Loud)...an alarm system...and the factory equipment packae for 1986. The alternator is rated at 115A. Now my 87 Dodge (I meant DOG)...has power windows , seats, mirrors, locks. rear defogger, aftermarket stereo amp with Infinity powered subwoofer, etc.) everything but the rear AC that the 928 has...and it has a 75 amp alternator...Why does the Porsche require the current that it does ??? The only solution is..."There Is NO SUBSTITUTE"...
Old 05-08-2006, 04:42 PM
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Well I may have a reprieve. Even without the fan my voltmeter has been drifting downward from 13+ to 12 to 10+. I recharged my battery again today. Had the system checked and the alternator is putting out 65A at 2000RPM but the battery does not hold a charge. New battery ordered $$. Hopefully will fix problem. Looking back this may have been developing over some time. BTW lately my voltmeter needle goes up and down slightly with my turn signal flasher at idle.
Dave
Old 05-08-2006, 04:54 PM
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jeff jackson
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Now the Voltmeter fluctuation with the turn signal operating is "Normal". I think they all do that. Or perhaps my new Die-Hard is dying as well ???



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