lorenolson888

I was perplexed on how to remove this POS yesterday.

The tool 9165 in the WSM seemed like a dream. So I made one.

So I went to OSH and got a a galvanized reducing coupler 2.5" to like 1 inch or 3/4" a pipe and a flange. I also got three set screws 1/4 -20 5/8"

$10

A drill press and a tap set I already had and it took about 30 minute to make the tool.

At first it did not come off and the screws kept denting the cap. So I attached the tool... lit the propane and started heating. After about 2 minutes of spinning the hub under a blue flame, I hit the flange with the hammer and it came right off!!!

I am considering just reusing the races and putting new bearings in...
any opinions???

Now to replace and repack the bearings. Another thread on the subject seemed to be filled with all sorts of snake oil and I tried those... This seemed to work quickly. Any locals are welcome to borrow my home made tool.

LO

Bill Ball

Dude, you are a genius!

Bill Ball

Ah, the races. I don't know how to tell if they are worn...I suppose bearing tracks maybe. So, I just replace them. It is the hard part of the job, of course, especially if you put the new race in backwards. DOH!

lorenolson888

Hi Bill,

It is those little things that keep us going.

Good job this weekend with the torque tube...

I will take the hubs to Susan and have them pressed them in... may as well do it all.

let me know if you want to borrow it some time.

LO

Bill Ball

You can do this yourself. You can knock the old races out with soemthing as crude as a long screwdriver and hammer from the backside. Do NOT worry about putting a few gouges in the hub wall. The new race will cover them and nothing moving touches the hub wall.

You can knock in the new race and bearing using the old bearing and a big socket with a 3-lb sledge. In fact, if you freeze the race and bearing, this is easy.

SharkSkin

Nice idea! With 3/4" pipe, you could probably tape a few dumbell weights together to slide on the pipe and act as a slide hammer too!

Tails

I made my dust cap puller from a piece of galvanised pipe that had an end cover on it.

Drilled and tapped through the cap and pipe and added set bolts. I then drilled and tapped the pipe where it fits over the dust cover with 4 holes spaced at 90 degrees. I then fitted longer set bolts.

I drilled the end cover with a three eights inch drill, asI had a section of three eight rod that I cut a three eights thread on one end. I put a three eight nut on the shaft, pushed the rod through the hole in the cover and then put another nut inside the cover.

I then drilled a section of inch and half round bar, slid it onto the shaft and fitted a thick tapped inch washer on the other end.

To remove dust cap, place the gal pipe over dust cover, tighten up the 4 set bolts and hammer the cover off by sliding the inch and half round bar section against the washer.

To replace just hammer the other way.

Works like a charm.

Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto

Garth S

On the 'yet-to-do' project list is to make a built-in puller/press for this annoying little grease cap.
Drill & tap the caps center for a M8 thread: install a short bolt to seal - grind the head down if aftermarket wheels have a center cap clearance issue.
At service time, thread in a longer M8 bolt against the spindle stub to press/pull the cap off ... voila ....

lorenolson888

Bill,

Thanks I will try it tonight. Maybe I will use temp and a vise to press them in.

The second one came off pretty easily. Is the factory grease green in color?

There is a small amount of play... I will be glad to have her all tight again.

Any other tips on replacing the races???

LO

Bill Ball

A vise would work fine. I did them so long ago, I can't recall how I got them in, but pounding is not forbidden as long as you have an insulating piece.

Grease...not sure. Wheel bearing grease. I think I may have packed them with some Redline synthetic grease.

Tips on the races - just don't put it in backwards, like I said!

Garth S

Heat the hub to ~350F ( in the family oven) ... and stand it up on a block of 2x6 for protection. The races will easily tap out. Freeze the new races and reheat the hub .... they go in quite easily.

SharkSkin

Oh, about the races... replace them. Your new bearings will last much longer. Even if they look OK, they will not make contact with the rollers evenly, with obvious results.

ErnestSw

I must be missing something. I just tapped mine fairly gently around the sides with a hammer and they came right off.

AO

Ernest- You've been missing a lot!

Mine have always given me issues. I use a 1 7/8" muffler "U" clamp. I just slip it on, snug up the clamp, and then I use a pry-bar to work it off. Usually comes off in about 30 seconds. But this is also a very nice solution.

Bill Ball

You must have gotten the rare factory loose cap option. Mine have been somewhat of a pain. I grab them with large channel locks and work them off a little at a time. They are so tight, I have to knock the channel locks with a hammer a bit to get the cap moving. Marks up the cap a bit, but they come off.