WOT switch? where is it?

 

WOT switch is on the drivers side of the throttle body.

You can check its operation by hooking up a meter to the LH connector and depressing the accelerator.

Chris

 

Lets run the spanner again.
Get rid of the chips.
Roger

 

I looked at my chips and cant remember which go where.

 

About the AFR. If your car's water gauge gets close to the last line before the red, the ECM starts to add fuel. If you add exhaust sytems to the car you'll need an ADJ AF regulator to take advantage of those exhaust changes.
LOADED, do you remember if the car got as warm as I described.
On the subject of dyno sheets, I can't scan mine but mine is on DEVEK's website. The last one from Tyler, TX. http://www.devek.net/index.php?page=nfo_dynoroom

The more info the better, sometimes.
Guy

 

ERNESTSW,
Some dyno shops forget to clean the AFR filters or replace the AFR when it gets old and clogged. If these two things happen, the dyno will get bad readings. Always ask the operator if the filter is clean or how old is the O2. This is especially important when computer tuning.

Guy

 

These dyno guys were pretty confident in their dyno's accuracy, FWIW. They supposedly had spent some money R&Ring it late last year. Having said that, who knows?

 

WOT is just a position on the throttle switch that starts about 2/3rds open where it sends a signal to go full rich. Part of the Spanner actuator test checks the idle and WOT positions on the throttle switch. So, if you are backing off a tad, you still probably are in WOT mode. There is no indication WOT is not working - you are not lean.

Based on the other results reported, this dyno sure looks like it is reading low. Still, your torque, if I am interpreting the chart correctly, is real low. My stock S4 before the SC was 262HP and 290TQ. That's normal to slightly low. I've seen healthy stock automatic S4's read as low as 250HP but they typically produce 270. This is on a Dynapack. Typically, Mustang's (looks like what you were on) read even higher. So, the dyno is off, but your torque is off even more.

Glad to hear your plugs look good. Your report of seat of the pants impression that the car is a bomb slightly off full throttle but bogs on full throttle is a good clue, but I don't have any ideas. Maybe you should have done one dyno run slightly off full throttle to verify your impression. Even so, I'm not sure what would produce that behavior. You have good fuel pressure. Fortunately, you've got a great group of people in Dallas/FW and you guys will figure this out.

 

Fausto has vacuum leaks to sort out, then the chips need to be sorted, then check it again, and see what happens. AFR of 10:1 or 11:1 will cool the engine just fine, but it will also reduce the overall HP at top end. I know Porsche used the WOT to help cool the engine when pushing it, but getting the AFR right will produce better HP numbers. roger's car has a similar issue, but it's not caused by vacuum, but something quite obscure that we haven't found yet. The fuel consumption, AFR #s, and the emission results all point to too much fuel at nearly every RPM. Much has already been looked at, but still haven't got to the bottmo of it... Hmmm.

Doc

 

here we go:
1. No vacuum leaks except in the HVAC and its been plugged for another date. ALL vacuum lines hold vac to 15 inches +
2. I checked the WOT switch and it works. SO that is ruled out
3. I swapped the chips out and NO Never will I ever use stock chips again. The stock chips enhanced poor performance. SO lets keep those out for good.


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I felt and watch the ohm meter work with my foot on the throttle.

The position of my foot is exactly the point at which the WOT switch/ switchs on.


OK so what happens to the MAF when the WOT switch turns on?
ANybody know?

 

When you fing the root of your problem the stock chips will work fine and most likely better than your 'performance' chips.
You might want to put what year Shark you have in your signature.

 

All of you at the same dyno, at the same time, all reading low? You all could have a similiar problem, maybe, but i would say go to a different dyno. Especially the tq figure on the gts, makes no sense.

Where there any 911's parked in the reserved for owner parking spots?

 

Mustang dynos read lower than some others. They are still very accurate. The key is when you make changes to use the same dyno to verify if the change worked.

 

Maybe MAF, When i purchased my 89S4 it had a K&N filter in it. The minute ROG100 saw this he immediately ripped it out......(thanks Roger) I am wondering if oil of any sort attacked my MAF sensor? I suppose removal of the MAF and inspection will tell me more. OH what am i looking for?

 

Fausto,
We have spare MAF's - takes a few mins to make the change.
Roger