Is this a good front jack stand point?
04-09-2006, 10:51 AM
#16
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I jack on those skid plates when I need to get the front end up high, but then put the jack stand under the factory lift point. I sometimes will put an extra set of jack stands under those as a just-in-case safety measure (after I've jacked everything up).
04-09-2006, 02:05 PM
#17
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I don't think it's what you meant, but the inner frame rail is not sturdy enough for jacking by itself.
While I was prototyping my bars, I found that the jacking on the 'frame' between the jack points, with tubing/pipe that was light enough to bend more than 1/2" when jacking in the center, deformed the body enough to make closing the doors difficult. That's why I went back to using the jack points for all the lifting force.
Originally Posted by RealTech
...a 2 x 4 on the frame rail works great...
04-09-2006, 02:39 PM
#19
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That's tight mark!
04-12-2006, 07:13 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by abbzer0
Holy crap Mark. I am salivating right now! Did you have that custom made? If not, where can I get one!? Thanks!
It came from Harbor Freight (Have to order it on-line).
BEST PART - Under a grand - DELIVERED to your door!!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46604
PM me for more details and other necessary info.
Last edited by Mark; 04-12-2006 at 07:44 AM.
04-12-2006, 10:40 AM
#22
Everytime I think I've saved up enough to get the Harbor Freight hydraulic lift, something else car related takes that $$ away. Thats why I got Ken's lifts in the meantime to ensure I had a better way to more easily lift my shark. One day though that HF lift will find its way to my garage too!!
04-12-2006, 12:43 PM
#24
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Hey, can that HF lift be re-wired for 110? I have a 4 poster because I could not get a 2-poster in the space available. Sometimes I need a lift that will get the wheels off the ground. This could be very handy.
04-12-2006, 10:34 PM
#25
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Hmm.. I will have to look into that. You know that Harbor Freight frequently has 20% off coupons that they send out. I wonder if it is eligible for online purchases.. The wheels certainly are turning now! Thanks for the info. ( But darn it, now you are making me spend more money! LOL ) 
04-12-2006, 11:34 PM
#27
Bill, that question came up on the post last year about the HF lift. The online info shows 220, but I'm pretty certain that its actually 110. Mark or Brad can confirm that since they both own one.
Last edited by MGW-Fla; 04-13-2006 at 08:23 AM.
04-13-2006, 07:33 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by MGW-Fla
Bill, that question came up on the post last year about the HF lift. The online info shows 220, but I pretty certain that its actually 110. Mark or Brad can confirm that since they both own one.
I have been getting a lot of PM questions about the lift lately. If anyone is interested in discussing - please PM me for my phone number. I'll be happy to discuss the PROS (Numerous!!) and CONS (Very few!) and give you some tips on getting it set up and using it.
04-13-2006, 08:01 AM
#30
Since we have no 'rail' deformation on Zack's 81' or Pattycakes, the 82' we spread the load with wood for jacking between the jack points, then use the jack points.
Even then, we use 4'X6" pieces of 1/2" plywood to distribute the load at the jack points.
These thin pre-cut pieces of wood are still horribly deformed if the sHARk is lifted for 2 days and the doors start dragging. We let the 81' down today and there is 5 1/8"'s of room between the wheel arch and top of front tires.
Looks like it's in the process of pulling a wheelie.
No matter what, you need a solid, stable point for a jack point.
We messed up and did not break the torque on the rear axle nuts before lifting and the entire rear suspension flexed due to the force applied with the Mongo cheater bar.
Point of fact, when we pre-torqued the axle nuts to 150 then 200lb ft, while raised, the suspension 'rolled' under the load. A lame jack, or jackstand point may have invited a tip over.
FWIW
I agree with the poster who said that at some point when you lift too high in the rear or front that the opposite end and sometimes the opposite side of the sHARk will also rise.
This was observed -and yeah, it seems strange- when Zack forgot about the axle nuts and had pulled the jack stands. I caught him before he installed the wheels and the car was up on 4, 2 1/2 ton jacks. Was a weird experience trying to level to pre-torque the axle nuts. Should have put the stands back under...Duh!
Upside is: Must be a very rigid pan structure.
Even then, we use 4'X6" pieces of 1/2" plywood to distribute the load at the jack points.
These thin pre-cut pieces of wood are still horribly deformed if the sHARk is lifted for 2 days and the doors start dragging. We let the 81' down today and there is 5 1/8"'s of room between the wheel arch and top of front tires.
Looks like it's in the process of pulling a wheelie.
No matter what, you need a solid, stable point for a jack point.
We messed up and did not break the torque on the rear axle nuts before lifting and the entire rear suspension flexed due to the force applied with the Mongo cheater bar.
Point of fact, when we pre-torqued the axle nuts to 150 then 200lb ft, while raised, the suspension 'rolled' under the load. A lame jack, or jackstand point may have invited a tip over.
FWIW
I agree with the poster who said that at some point when you lift too high in the rear or front that the opposite end and sometimes the opposite side of the sHARk will also rise.
This was observed -and yeah, it seems strange- when Zack forgot about the axle nuts and had pulled the jack stands. I caught him before he installed the wheels and the car was up on 4, 2 1/2 ton jacks. Was a weird experience trying to level to pre-torque the axle nuts. Should have put the stands back under...Duh!
Upside is: Must be a very rigid pan structure.