bdstott

It's a 1973 AMC Gremlin... I'm showing my age...

Sab

So no ideas as to how I can resolve this problem?

bd0nalds0n

This may not be helpful for you, but when I encounter a job that I might be able to do, but in all honesty don't feel up to the pain, suffering, scuffed knuckles, and risk of screwing it up further, I make an appointment and let somebody I trust who has already probably dealt with this problem a dozen times already tell me how much it will be for my problem to become their problem, and to make it go away.

In most cases it's worth the tradeoff.

I recognize that there are a lot people who have the spare time, experience, and expertise such that the value equation for them is much different.

How much could it possibly cost? A few hundred bucks?

Sab

I was told it is 14 hours of labor, so more like $1500.00 !!!

I was just hoping there is a way to fix the leak in place.

Nicole

A few years back I had a leak somewhere in the evaporator area under the dash. They put in some kind of additive, and the AC has been tight and cold ever since. Well, almost - there was some small leak in the AC cooler at one point - it was replaced and the system was recharged. No problems since. It's been at least 3 years since that initial leak.

tcns

Well I haven't played with the line running from the dryer to the evaporator in a porsche but I have replaced that line in my Range Rover.

I have seen people cut the hose half way along the firewall and use brass fittings to create a connector and then put a new pressure fitting and crimp it on and then attach it to the dryer - save having to take the line off at the evaporator.

As I said I don't know how much of a big job this is in a shark but in my rangie I just discharged the ac system - removed the high pressure line from the evap - fed it out the grommet in the firewall and replaced it. I pushed the new line through without a fitting for the evap and then crimped it in the car.

HTH
Tom

SharkSkin

On earlier cars, that line comes off easily(see pic below). Well, maybe "easily" isn't the best way to describe it -- it's straightforward but requires patience. IIRC on your car it ties in with your fuel line under the air cleaner, so that's a bit more complexity. If you have rear AC my understanding is that the car has to be on a lift, then the line can be cut and removed, then spliced at the cut with a section of flexible hose to allow you to thread it back in.

If you can find an AC shop with a portable swaging tool, you might be able to free the part of the pipe that runs up the fender just enough to lift the forward end clear and swage a new hose on it, without having to remove it all the way. Most AC shops seem to have bench-mounted swaging tools. The portable ones are more commonly used for field service of hydraulic systems, so maybe the trick would be to get the hose and ferrules and seek out a hydraulic service place that has the tools.

Or just pay the $1500.