Turned and Powder Coated rotors-Pics
#16
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There should be metal to metal contact on BOTH sides of the rotor.
Wheel studs/bolts act in tension to compress the four friction surfaces together .... it is the 'disc friction' that keeps the wheel from slipping on the hub: if the latter occurs, the fasteners are placed in a shear mode .... not the way they were intended.
No doubt it will work - but that was not the design basis IIRC ....
Wheel studs/bolts act in tension to compress the four friction surfaces together .... it is the 'disc friction' that keeps the wheel from slipping on the hub: if the latter occurs, the fasteners are placed in a shear mode .... not the way they were intended.
No doubt it will work - but that was not the design basis IIRC ....
#17
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Unless that paint is so uniform within a few microns (.001mm) you are going to have runout issues. The single largest issue facing rotor manufacturers is brake place to mounting face runout. They spend 100's of thousands of dollars to remove 10-20 microns of runout. It may work for a while but when one side wears of more than the other you will get pedal vibrations due to thickness variation of the brake plate. Most factory specs are .010mm maximum variation along the whole brake plate. And these are specs for your typical chebbie truck or car. The paint variation is also multiplied as it is projected to the brake surface.
I would remove the paint from the wheel face and from the mounting face. But that is just me.
Rod
I would remove the paint from the wheel face and from the mounting face. But that is just me.
Rod
#18
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Originally Posted by Tony
you mean they're directional!!! OH MAN! i cant win i swear
#20
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Early OEM rotors are slotted on the non Brembo setups.
#21
You want the fins spinning in the direction to draw air in at the hub and push it out at the edge. Plus, real genuine disks for 82-86 are marked left and right.
#22
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Originally Posted by BrendanC
You want the fins spinning in the direction to draw air in at the hub and push it out at the edge. Plus, real genuine disks for 82-86 are marked left and right.
#23
Remove the power coat on both sides of mounting face ! I have seen this several times at the track it causes your wheel lugs to appear to have loosened but in actuality the power coat softened and squashed out after the rotors heated up.
#24
Thats what I said Andrew - Fins pushing air out to the edges from the inside hub.
#25
Drifting
I'm sure that it's probably better not to paint the actual mating surface for the wheel, but I did paint this 5 years ago when I originally painted my calipers/rotors, and I've had no ill effects from it. Just my 2 cents.
#26
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Not sure what you mean by fins? If you're talking about the slots on the slotted rotors, I agree. If you're talking about the vanes of the internal structure, I disagree. I remember looking this up when I got my cross-drilled rotors and it was clear that you want the vanes to expell air at the perimeter rather than at the hub. Don't remember the logic behind this, but it seems reasonable that if you're driving through rain/water you want to shed the water, not hold it.
Originally Posted by a4sfed928
Remove the power coat on both sides of mounting face ! I have seen this several times at the track it causes your wheel lugs to appear to have loosened but in actuality the power coat softened and squashed out after the rotors heated up.