TB/WP parts
#1
TB/WP parts
Alright all, after much deliberation, I am going to purchase everything I need to do the TB/WP thing myself.
Question, who can I buy the complete package from with all of the items needed including, O rings, Oil radial seals, main seals ect.
Also isn't there substitute bearings for the Tensioners that can be used instead of pay $200 for the part from mother Porsche?
I have all of the step by step instructions.
I don't have the service manuals yet, I won't have them at the time I start on the project, where can a find a chart of torque settings for the different bolts?
Any help would be appreciated,
If you or your company sells these items feel free to pm or email me as well.
I am looking to start on this ASAP
Thanks
Leonard
practicaljoker25@hotmail.com
elekon - at - swbell.net
Question, who can I buy the complete package from with all of the items needed including, O rings, Oil radial seals, main seals ect.
Also isn't there substitute bearings for the Tensioners that can be used instead of pay $200 for the part from mother Porsche?
I have all of the step by step instructions.
I don't have the service manuals yet, I won't have them at the time I start on the project, where can a find a chart of torque settings for the different bolts?
Any help would be appreciated,
If you or your company sells these items feel free to pm or email me as well.
I am looking to start on this ASAP
Thanks
Leonard
practicaljoker25@hotmail.com
elekon - at - swbell.net
#4
Click the link to 928 Specialist (the big one above your post) then enter their site and click on "kits" link on left hand side. Choose corresponding year for TB/WP kits, click away for any additions you want. Or call them to get specific help.
There you have it. Three sponsors in three posts. Choose one and get wrenching!
Rich
There you have it. Three sponsors in three posts. Choose one and get wrenching!
Rich
#5
You must buy the tensioner roller as it is manufactured on its shaft: The top and crank idler bearings can be pressed into the old shells for $5-7 each ... the magic bearing number depends on your Model Year .... as does practically everything else ... which you didn't happen to mention ...
#7
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And drain the block two crush rings 900 123 055 30, radiator drain plug 928 106 444 01 , thermostat 928 106 129 16 , ...get the tension tool and flywheel lock
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#8
Originally Posted by Garth S
You must buy the tensioner roller as it is manufactured on its shaft: The top and crank idler bearings can be pressed into the old shells for $5-7 each ... the magic bearing number depends on your Model Year .... as does practically everything else ... which you didn't happen to mention ...
Sorry , 1991 GT.
rixter do yourself a favor and change the accesory belts at the same time
Today 04:31 PM
Garth S You must buy the tensioner roller as it is manufactured on its shaft: The top and crank idler bearings can be pressed into the old shells for $5-7 each ... the magic bearing number depends on your Model Year .... as does practically everything else ... which you didn't happen to mention ...
Today 04:30 PM
Richard S Click the link to 928 Specialist (the big one above your post) then enter their site and click on "kits" link on left hand side. Choose corresponding year for TB/WP kits, click away for any additions you want. Or call them to get specific help.
There you have it. Three sponsors in three posts. Choose one and get wrenching!
Rich
Thanks you all.
#10
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While I don't want to cut into sales of parts at the big three, if you're not in a big rush, I would pull the front apart, and make up a parts list that you actually need. If your oil pump isn't leaking, you run the risk of putting in a part and having it start leaking. All belts need to go, and the WP and gasket need to go, but you may find new bearings in the idlers, and a good tensioner setup that just needs cleaning, and a new boot.
On the other hand, you may find that you need both cam gears as they are too worn to proceed. also, you may find that the smog pump is siezed, and the belt is just missing(I did). Stuff like that almost insures that you will be waiting for parts during the job, unless you order a very big list of things.
Have fun, keep us advised of your progress. Don't forget to mark the damper front as it comes off, and set the timing at 45 degress before loosening anything in the TB path.
Doc
On the other hand, you may find that you need both cam gears as they are too worn to proceed. also, you may find that the smog pump is siezed, and the belt is just missing(I did). Stuff like that almost insures that you will be waiting for parts during the job, unless you order a very big list of things.
Have fun, keep us advised of your progress. Don't forget to mark the damper front as it comes off, and set the timing at 45 degress before loosening anything in the TB path.
Doc
#11
Originally Posted by docmirror
While I don't want to cut into sales of parts at the big three, if you're not in a big rush, I would pull the front apart, and make up a parts list that you actually need. If your oil pump isn't leaking, you run the risk of putting in a part and having it start leaking. All belts need to go, and the WP and gasket need to go, but you may find new bearings in the idlers, and a good tensioner setup that just needs cleaning, and a new boot.
On the other hand, you may find that you need both cam gears as they are too worn to proceed. also, you may find that the smog pump is siezed, and the belt is just missing(I did). Stuff like that almost insures that you will be waiting for parts during the job, unless you order a very big list of things.
Have fun, keep us advised of your progress. Don't forget to mark the damper front as it comes off, and set the timing at 45 degress before loosening anything in the TB path.
Doc
On the other hand, you may find that you need both cam gears as they are too worn to proceed. also, you may find that the smog pump is siezed, and the belt is just missing(I did). Stuff like that almost insures that you will be waiting for parts during the job, unless you order a very big list of things.
Have fun, keep us advised of your progress. Don't forget to mark the damper front as it comes off, and set the timing at 45 degress before loosening anything in the TB path.
Doc
I want to change all of the hoses and belts due to the fact that they may have been changed, I know the timing belt has been changed on schedule, but the rest really depends on if the shop did what was reported.
But you definitely raise a great point, I need to slow my road and inspect the situation before proceeding.
The car has been serviced religously, but the work was done by 3 different shops, 1 of which is a questionable shop,
Not because of dishonesty but due to lack of knowledge about the 928s.
I am definitely hoping that I don't have excessive wear on the cam gears.
I will keep you all posted, I may need to call for help.
Len
#13
A rush order to Jim Morehouse will get you a bunch of vital info, including the manuals, back in a hurry (unless he is on a golf course somewhere!).
Jim's email is jim928ATptd.net - change the AT to @
Jim's email is jim928ATptd.net - change the AT to @
#14
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From: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Originally Posted by WallyP
A rush order to Jim Morehouse will get you a bunch of vital info, including the manuals, back in a hurry (unless he is on a golf course somewhere!).
Jim's email is jim928ATptd.net - change the AT to @
Jim's email is jim928ATptd.net - change the AT to @
I don't think you need the flywheel lock with the GT. When you're ready to take the crank bolt off, just put the car in 5th gear, set the parking brake and perhaps put the rear wheels on the ground. When I did this, I used a 1/2" breaker par with a 4' piece of pipe. It was reluctant, but it does come off.