Bertrand Daoust

I don't think you need to remove the hook.

I did mine 2 weeks ago and I did't have to remove it. I only needed to bend it a little bit to the right.

The only problem was the fuel line right behind it that was in the way. I also did't have to remove it.

It took me about 2 hours to do the job (first time).

Good Luck.

Tom. M

They are marked on the tbelt covers (on my GT and 91 S4 motor in the track car)..so if you know which cylinder is which then its pretty easy. Passenger side bank 1,2,3,4 with 4 being at the firewall and drivers side 5, 6, 7, and 8 with 8 being at the firewall.... Look on your tbelt cover for the matching cylinder on the rotor cap...

Hilton

Aryan, if you mean the one in the front-centre on the water pump, yes.

As a handy tip, if you've bought the economy wires without the guides and beru ends pre-attached, don't clip the guides shut until you've routed the wires.. being able to take up the slack where needed it helpful.

Bertrand Daoust

+1. I was thinking about the one on the right side of the engine.

Sorry. My mistake.

Leon Speed

I knew it wasn't a lift hook for the engine

I meant the hook on the waterpump. Ok so I can remove it without any adverse effects. Got it, thanks

I have a complete set, so it should be a piece of cake - actually that's what I always think until something is stuck or breaks off..

cold_beer839

Speaking of wires, who makes the best ones for our 928's?

Michael, what make are those red ones you used? Would you recommend them, or use a different wire set next time?

ROG100

Stan,
I have sets of Beru wires only for your car for $119. Red & Black. Includes the coil wires.
You reuse the ends.
Complete sets of Beru wires are $365 a set.
Roger

michaelathome

Talk about bringing back an old thread, wow, nice use of the search function guys


David,

Mine are Nology's and sold by most of the 928 suppliers IIRC but I could be wrong. There is an ongoing debate as to which is better/best. IMO anything is better than 20yo wires, the rest is just preference. The Nology's have a much thicker shielding around the internal cable (part of the reason it was so hard to squeeze them along the factory paths) and have ground wires that are bolted onto the cam covers or another grounding point if you can find them.

The least expensive alternative is as Rog mentions and just replace the wires and re-use your existing caps. As you pull back the factory rubber caps you will see that there is a screw holding the wires in there. Remove screw and replace wire. As Andy mentioned earlier this should take a LOT less time as you should be able to just lace the new wires one at a time right thru where you just pulled the last one out of.

Michael

The_Remora

I just did this last night, along w/ replacing plugs, caps, and rotors. What a ball-buster... took me a while too, longer than I expected. S4 was waaaay harder than 16v which was pretty easy.

cold_beer839

Roger,

Does the econo Beru set come with the sections of thick insulation like the originals?

Price is $119 for the S4?

Hilton

No, the economy set is just the leads themselves with the crimped-on brass ends that screw into the original connectors.

I used some cheap fuel hose to replace the original insulation with, on the grounds that it will hold up well to grease/oil etc. (5/16ths, or maybe 3/8? was around the 8mm mark).