MGW-Fla

Ok.. I have a WP question: NEW OR REBUILT??? Not to steal your Thread Roger(It was great to speak to you on the phone last week too, Thanks!).....but I was about to ask this Water Pump question myself, so I hope its ok to ask it here.

Heres my situation: I am having my TB/WP done on the 1985S I just bought. I hope to one day learn & have the confidence to do the job myself, but for now, my mechanic is doing the work(not Brumos). Anyways, he always likes using NEW everything to be sure there are minimal potential problems. When I mentioned potentially using a rebuilt WP, he advised against it in case there are any problems. Said unless I wanted to pay for his labor twice to remove/replace the rebuilt one if a problem arises.

Soooo oh great 928 gurus.... whats the consensus??? Should I put a new WP on or a rebuilt one? I notice that DR at 928 spec has rebuilt for $115+$200 core charge & has a new one for $487. At 928 Int. they show rebuilt for $119, but doesnt seem to mention any core charge? 928 Int. also shows a price of $269 but doesnt say if thats a new one or what?? So what is everyones suggested course of action??

Pardon my ignorance, I just trust everyone here's recommendations from your past learning on this issue. Of course I'm asking cause if rebuilt is the way most everyone goes & have done so without any problems, I'm all into saving money where I can.

THANKS!

SteveG

Hard to answer this question. Might be interesting to hear what Jim or DR put on their own. I bought rebuilt from one of the big 3. IIRC the bolt referred to in initial post here is threaded and contained a Helicoil on the rebuilt I received and that repair wouldn't thread. Didn't catch the problem til the pump was in place or I would have returned it. I replaced the hcoil and have had no problem. LOTS of rebuilt ones in use. Bottom line, inspect all parts carefully. Most recommend plastic impeller.

heinrich

Roger that makes little sense and you should know that likely there is more wrong here, ie the arm and such may be misaligned with the tnesioner. I do believe what you have is an older pump and you've bolted the stud to it where the early collar bolt would go. In that case there will definitely not be alignment.

ROG100

Heinrich,
I agree and I am definitly changing it.

Mel,
I have installed about 7 rebulit water pumps.
No problems so far. They look as good as the new ones - if they are for the right MY.

Tensioners are not on my lucky list. The TB&WP job I did on my own I forgot to attach the bracket and had to tear the whole job down to replace it. Now the WP.

heinrich

Rog, I think the only water pump you should consider is a Devek level 2 pump

docmirror

Will work
For beer.
cold cans of delight.

Roger's a slave driver. No respekt!

Doc

Garth S

H,
Practically impossible to confuse the two pumps: the raised boss for the idler on the early version ( to end of '86.5) is ~3/4" tall .... and threaded M8 for the pivot bolt. Replaced by a pivot stud threaded M10 on the 'S4' pumps, the idler boss is missing.
The stud cannot go into the pivot bolt hole .... well, anything is possible, but it wouldn't work ....
The geometry for the tensioner, tension roller and carrier arm in the sense of TB travel is absolutely identical throughout all pumps '78 - '95.

FlyingDog

I'm sticking with my early 87 pump theory.

It would be interesting to find out if those numbers are also the cutoff for the early-87 piston squirter blocks.

Edited to add: The SNs in my previous post are engine block serial numbers, not car body serial numbers.

heinrich

OK you're right.

ROG100

Garth S,
Are you saying that the idler pivot pin from an 87 and newer cars will not fit the 86.5 and older cars.
If as I think I have an old WP why did the pivot fit OK.
I am now doing MM and replacing the oil pan gasket with the new silicone one.
Should have the WP of tomorrow. Pictures to follow for clarification - hopefully.

blau928

I just did the WP/TB on my car, an early 87 S4, and it does not have the cross brace to the tensioner boss.. In addition, I have an earlier WP core, and the threads for the Tensioner Stud is different on the later style pumps.. M10 vs M8.................. IIRC

Interesting to know about the cross brace... Wonder if I should retrofit it.... ?

Hmmmmmmmmmmm,

ROG100

Richard,
Hang on as there was a technical bulletin issued concerning the earlier 87 cars.
I will post on ASAP.
Roger

the flyin' scotsman

Roger..........there are 3 different part #'s for the pin in PET as follows:

1978-81 928 105 570 00 bolt 10mm shoulder
1978-86 928 105 570 03 bolt 12mm shoulder
1987-88 928 105 570 05 pin

Respective footnotes:
#1 for original carrier
#2 also fits early '87
#3 fits from engine 81 h 00660m/t & 81 h 06737 a/t

Garth S

Roger,
The pivot STUD from the S4 generation of pumps will not fit the pivot BOLT hole in the boss of the pumps intended as OEM fit to end of model year '86.5 ( M10 vs M8).
In reality, all pumps will fit the engine blocks of all cars: as confusing as that may appear, the differences arise with the changes in the tensioner, 4 or 5 versions of carrier arms, pivot bolt vs. stud, idler roller mount, etc. They can all be retrofitted, as I have the '85 version on my '80 .... and could convert to the S4 with a few more pieces.
I agree with Flying dog and Flyin' Scotsman ( damn, is everyone flying these days? ) that the early S4's were missing the cross brace in question - it appeared in '88, and is on my S4; however, even some of the early pumps had a 'boss' in the location that is missing on your current one ... see Mark K's pic of an early version pump with the raised pivot boss .... and the untapped 'missing' boss.
Evidently, there were more than one set of casting molds in use ...

Bill Ball

Boy, is this confusuing.

None of the 928 part suppliers make any distinction other than 78-86 and 87-95 water pumps. I worked on an 86.5 a few weeks ago and it used the earlier design.

I know there were several tensioner body and arm changes over the years that can cause some mixups, and they are not all easy to document, but I was comfortable that you could make everythng work with one of two water pumps. Could the tensioner arm be wrong in this case?