My Thrust Bearing has Failed
#17
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Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
The thrust bearing shoulders are about 2 mm thick as I recall so with the allowable end play of .10-.4 mm 16 valve engine but only .008-.24 for 32 valve .... that is interesting did not know that the specs changed until I just looked. I wish you well with this latest challenge.
78-80: 0.110 - 0.312 (Max not shown)
81-82, 80-84"S" - 0.110 - 0.312 (Max not shown)
85-86"S", 87-89 S4 - M28.21/22, 0.110 - 0.312; M28.43/44/45/46/41/42/47, 0.06 - 0.192 (Max .4)
90-93 S4, GT, GTS - M28.42/47/49/50, 0.06 - 0.192 (Max .4)
As you say, different for the 32V but I don't see the 0.1/0.4 & 0.008-0.24 numbers anywhere? [Edit]Correction, you may have been looking at rod bearing axial play[/Edit]
Also, WSM P. 10-02 (1988) says 0.110 - 0.312.
Last edited by SharkSkin; 03-03-2006 at 04:40 AM.
#18
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Ah, that's good news, Dave. But you can see that the other Bill's thrust bearing didn't look to healthy even within the more stringent spec.
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Originally Posted by heinrich
I just remembered!! I have some oversized thrust bearings.
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Sorry ... Revised numbers on the end play (german tech book translator error)..new 28/21 engine .110-.312 wear limit .40 .... the 28/43-47 engines new .06-.192 wear limit .40 But even those numbers make little sense why the SAME wear limit given the much tighter initial tolerances of the later engines ? Simply stated the only thing which keeps the crankshaft from moving forward or backward in the block are those two shoulders on the ONE main bearing. That type of shoulder surface is very hard to lubricate too much pressure and the oil is forced out the edges . Porsche did revise the size of the thrust shoulders in 1984 making it larger which seems to correspond with the tighter initial new tolerance.
#26
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Originally Posted by FeedNfrenZ
I wouldn't think changing the TB from under the car would be doable or worth attempting? Thoughts?
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Originally Posted by heinrich
Brent ... btw ..
Thank God,, you dodged a bullet there. VERY CLOSE ONE ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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#28
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Originally Posted by heinrich
I just remembered!! I have some oversized thrust bearings.
You mean for cranks that have been turned?
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Having pulled a 928 motor, if you have a buddy to help, I'm sure it is infinitely easier to do that than to attempt to remove and replace the crank girdle in situ. The motor can be out in a long afternoon, even for a first-timer, but I wouldn't want to do it alone the first time. I wouldn't want to do this job alone the first time regardless of how you do it.
If Brent has the motor supported from above already, with the pan off, he should be able to survey the situation as to access to all the girdle nuts. I think the real problem comes in when trying to get the girdle back up into position without mooching the gasket surfaces. What does that thing weigh? I think anyone who has rebuilt one of these motors is going to say, no way.
If Brent has the motor supported from above already, with the pan off, he should be able to survey the situation as to access to all the girdle nuts. I think the real problem comes in when trying to get the girdle back up into position without mooching the gasket surfaces. What does that thing weigh? I think anyone who has rebuilt one of these motors is going to say, no way.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 03-03-2006 at 02:23 PM.
#30
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Bill, that girdle is aluminum, so it weight much less than it looks. My main concer is that wehn you are removing the engine unfosen things can break, snap, crack. Since the cross memeber is already out, half the battle is already over.