TeufelHei

So here's the clues Watson:

1. Car is dropped off on Wednesday last (1 Feb) for exhaust manifold replacement at a local exhaust shop. Since the car is an '85 Euro, and the manifolds are off an '85 US car, there will need to be a spacer fabricated to complete the union. This is the reason I didn't do all the work myself.

2. Said exhaust shop worker offers to do work on a cash basis. Job in the book (not sure which one) calls for 13 hours of labor. At $58 per hour for something that doesn't take 13 hours, I accept his offer.

3. Feb 2: Call to check status. Car is not ready yet. Manifold is not in place, but the passenger side is out.

4. Feb 3: Visit the shop the next day to check progress/pick up car. Only one side is in, and the strut from the frame to the cross member apparently cannot be reinstalled due to collapsed motor mounts.

5. Of note to me at this point, the car is not properly lifted, as the lift is positioned under the frame in the front and on the welds in front of the suspension in the rear. Not good, I advise him to fix it. I was compelled to leave due to other appointments that day.

6. Opt to supply parts (Anchor 2698) to replace motor mounts as a WYIT procedure. He states 30 minutes per side, I check it out.

7. Since the job is going to take a great deal longer than he thinks, and it will involve the high risk of breaking stuff in the process, I call on him on Monday (Feb 6) to inform him that he should simply replace the manifolds and fabricate the spacer. I opt to do the remaining work (since I can).

8. Call Tuesday afternoon. Manifolds are in place and he has about 45 minutes left of work. Presumably he's making the spacer. At this point (according to his own account) the car still starts and drives.

9. Show up at 0900 on Wednesday (Feb 8) to pick up car with cash payment of $550 in hand. Realizing this is very near the projected shop cost, nagging doubts about the wisdom of this choice start nagging a little louder. Looking forward to getting my car though.

Quick recap: 13 hours at $58 an hour means $754. Job has taken five working days to complete. Manifolds are in, spacer is made.

10. Upon arrival, I ask "how's it going?" he replies, "****ty." Not a good sign.

-Car will not start, suspect fuel pump relay. Swap it out. No dice.
-Informed by the worker that it has spark since it starts on (I assume) starter fluid. At this point I'm ready to call a flat bed.
-Against my better judgement, I offer that he should replace the fuel pump.
-I return an hour later with the old fuel pump from my '81 (known good).

11. Call again at 1645 on Feb 8. Worker informs me that the fuel pump actually does run, and that there is pressure, just no go. He also says that he will check continuity from the back of the relay panel to the pump to eliminate a broken wire. My suspicion immediately turns to the LH brain and the grounding procedures he used while welding the spacer.

12. When I inquire after whether he grounded the car or not, he of course reassures me that he did. I inform him that I believe the fuel injectors are likely inoperative, and that a damaged brain is likely the case. I go on to getnly broach the subject of responsibility, he immediately states that "all [he] did was put some exhaust manifolds in," and more or less disowns any responsibility for his part of the equation.

Final recap: Manifolds/spacer are on. Fuel pump works with direct power. Relay works. Spark is good. Car will not start. Worker claims no reposnsibility.

Aggravating factors: No doccumentation of work performed. I supplied all the parts at my own cost. Car is at the shop.

Option 1: Have a work order made, and pay the shop rate for that. Flat bed the car home. Develop a body of evidence for a suit, and have them pay for repairs and court costs.

Option 2: Threaten option 1. Worker complies with my assertion, and eats the labor cost, and reimburses me for parts costs (928 INTL) to repair the problem myself.

Option 3: Worker tells me to stuff it. I am forced to seize my car and return it to my care (under police supervision). He can sue me for the labor fees if he'd like to try.

Option 4: Nasty exchange ensues, and I am compelled to defend myself. Car will likely have been vandalized/sabotaged, thus authorzing lethal force. Under a hail of gunfire, I recover the car by hot-swapping a LH brain and drive it to safety. Gun battle ensues, at home. I emerge victorious (naturally), but am forced to torch the shop that has brought me so much misery. Do twenty years in the clink, Bubba sympathizes with why I'm in there, and takes it easy on me. Covert to Islam, and join the Mujahadin. Sell opium. Buy new 928.

So what's it going to be ladies and gents? Does anyone want to be a star/expert witness for me? Where's Rich Andrade when you need him?

Bill Ball

Options 1-3 didn't seem good, but then I read option 4.

fst951

Hi.

Sometimes it is worth paying the shop rate instead of trying to gut the shop...huh? Anyway option #5 is to eat it by paying the dude for his work at the reduced rate and get the control unit rebuilt for about $300. It doesn't sound like you expected insurance for a reduced rate.

Good luck.

TeufelHei

Hmmm...Option 5. It would save a lot of legal trouble.

Where is this place where I can get the control unit rebuilt for $300?

Bill Ball

I'd say they should hand you the car once you verify dead brain (usually via swap). Used/rebuilt brain cost approximately equals their labor charge. They don't owe you for the cost of your parts.

Is grounding adequate? I thought you were supposed to disconnect the brains. (Check WSM).

Edit after post - if a rebuilt brain is only $300 then that is all they owe you.

Question: If the brains need to be disconnected, whose responsibility is it to know that if grounding is otherwise commonly regarded as adequate?

TeufelHei

Cost for a rebuilt brain is $650. I am not saying they should pay me for my parts, since none were damaged (save one).

Since I do not weld, I don't know what ought to be done as far as the brain goes. I would figure that you are right though, and that it would be a standard procedure to do so for all automobiles.

Bill Ball

Need to check the WSM regarding welding precautions. It's in there.

wrecktech

I make it a practice to always disconnect the battery before any welding. I would think it was common practice.

Imo000

I had cars before that had lots of custom exhaust work done at the local muffler shop and never had to disconnect the ECM (Engine Control Module). Now the 928 might be a bit different than "other cars" but how would the shop owner/worker know if the 928s ECM needs to be disconnected.

My brother's '83 had some custom exhaust work done and the ECM was never disconnected.

Before you do anything, check the fuel injection relay. When it fails the injectors will not engage at all. You can simply remove the aluminum cover and press the contacts together with your fingers, at the same time crank the engine over. If it start, let go of the relay and the engine should stall. It's an easy and chap way of testing that relay. This method worked on my '85 and my bros '83!

TeufelHei

He had disconnected the battery (he states), by removing teh terminal from the battery end, not the frame end. He didn't know about that apparently.

I believe he did since the spare compartment was not as compact as it used to be, and the carpet was a bit out of place.

I'll investigate the WSM.

TeufelHei

So who voted for option 4?

Imo000

Tim,

Here is my offer to get your option 4 completed! Since my '86.5 project car is far from finished, I can send you the brain out of it so you can at least test your car. I know it's 100% good casue I drove the car into the garage last spring. However, things get damaged during shipping, so the best solution would be to borrow one from someone local. If that doesn't materialize, send me a PM.

TeufelHei

Hold on, I have to go load the magazines....BRB.

khalloudy

Tim,

I think since it took him like a million years to get your car back, i feel that the shop knew something went wrong and they tried to stall. Thant being said, proving they did wrong is another thing, maybe you can get in touch with Rich from Electronik Repair and he can take a look at the fried LH and point to you if there was a massive voltage surge (visual inspection). Regardless, i sympathize with your situation as it is pretty unfortunate. Lesson: Never take a 928 to anyone that does not know them well enough (no matter what you tell them about handling them).

P.S. If you turn Muslim (as you mentioned in the beginning), maybe you can move back to the Perisan Gulf, make some serious $$$ as a military advisor (I see you are/were USMC), and i am sure you will find more than a handful of 928s out there sitting in royal palaces rotting (pick one up for cheap.. and enjoy as those cars have not been driven much!!! ask me how i know)

Sincerely,
Khaled

jebdog

Porsche wants the brains unplugged not just the battery disconnected ,who cares if you fry a battery ?