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Got Clutch out, Now what????

 
Old 02-08-2006, 11:01 AM
  #16  
worf928
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
... I'm replacing the bearings and pressure plate ...
If you are replacing the PP why do you think you need to disassemble the PP/release arm assembly???

1. How to get the pilot bearing out? Do I remove the flywheel or do it in situ? What should I use to pull it?
Do a thread search on pilot bearing. Several options including a nifty ~$15 pilot bearing puller.

2. How do I re-assemble the new clutch pack? Do I need the "shim" the new pressure plate?
You'll need to use the same spacers you used on the original PP as per WSM. Use some big-a$$ed c-clamps to get the spacers out of your old PP.
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Old 02-08-2006, 11:10 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by worf928
If you are replacing the PP why do you think you need to disassemble the PP/release arm assembly???
Because I needed the relase arm. But that's done now.


Originally Posted by worf928
Do a thread search on pilot bearing. Several options including a nifty ~$15 pilot bearing puller.
Ok. Will do.


Originally Posted by worf928
You'll need to use the same spacers you used on the original PP as per WSM. Use some big-a$$ed c-clamps to get the spacers out of your old PP.
Got it. I think I can handle it, but we'll see. No working on the car until Friday night.
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Old 02-08-2006, 11:16 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
1. How to get the pilot bearing out? Do I remove the flywheel or do it in situ?
Removing flywheel will not help as bearing sits inside crankshaft. Get the puller.
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Old 02-08-2006, 11:28 AM
  #19  
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If You cannot find small enough puller, use our $1.50 method: http://members.***.net/my_1987s4_928...lsot_tool.html
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Old 02-08-2006, 12:53 PM
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i used a large deep socket on top of a long threaded shank (Home Depot), wiht a cut in the shank at the tip to grab the back of the bearing. This "slide-hammer" worked well, though use a propane torch ($13 at HD) to heat the area around the bearing: makes it easier. A

Also, store the new bearing in the freezer until you're ready to install.
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Old 02-08-2006, 01:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Update:


1. How to get the pilot bearing out? Do I remove the flywheel or do it in situ? What should I use to pull it? I tried to fab a puller using some left-over oak flooring and a bolt, but the 3/4" flooring just bent - and the bearing didn't budge. Maybe I need to use some angle iron?

2. How do I re-assemble the new clutch pack? Do I need the "shim" the new pressure plate?
.

I made a crude puller out of some bolt stock and a couple of nuts. I'll post a pic tonight

My new pressure plate came with spacers in it all ready...
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Old 02-08-2006, 01:58 PM
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Voytek- I like yours. Very simple.

I also found this one in an old thread by Jkelly. https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=pilot+bearing

One of these 2 should work.

I might as well ask, now, since Mark brought up the point. Are there any tricks to getting the new pilot bearing in? I got the tip about the freezer, but anything else like a BFH or something along those lines?
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Old 02-08-2006, 02:00 PM
  #23  
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I used the grease method posted earlier and it worked very well.
See this thread for some pictures.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=pilot+bearing


/Peter
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Old 02-08-2006, 02:09 PM
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Peter-
I tried, but we use inch based measures for dowel rods (Round wood). It was either just a bit big or just a bit too small. Damn inches! Why can't the US use metric sizes!
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Old 02-08-2006, 02:13 PM
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Hi Andrew,

yes that is a problem, let me know if you get stuck.
I still have a piece left that I could send you

/Peter
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Old 02-08-2006, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Because I needed the relase arm. But that's done now.
So, the throw-out bearing that you are replacing is a GTS-spec bearing. And the guide sleave is GTS spec. And the release arm lever is also GTS spec? (This is your '91's second (at least) clutch job?)

Maybe you mentioned this in a previous post. I just want to avoid another thread like:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ghlight=clutch

or

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ghlight=clutch
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Old 02-08-2006, 02:35 PM
  #27  
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Nice pics
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Old 02-08-2006, 03:41 PM
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Dave-

You just opened my eyes! Ok, let see if I can get this right. Btw, the clutch was replaced back in '99 per my records.

I have the GTS spec Bearing, guide tube, & PP from DR. The release arm part number is (as you can see in the pic above) 928 116 832 07. Jim Bailey in the thread you listed above lists the correct release arm part number as, 928 116 832 09.

Hmmmm.... me thinks my bank account balance is going to go down.
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Old 02-08-2006, 03:53 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Peter-
I tried, but we use inch based measures for dowel rods (Round wood). It was either just a bit big or just a bit too small. Damn inches! Why can't the US use metric sizes!
To make a 'metric' dowel, chuck up a section of too large SAE dowel in your drill. Using some sandpaper, the perfect, non-grease spattering fit will appear .... oh yeah, the drill needs to be turned on ..
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Old 02-08-2006, 05:08 PM
  #30  
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When unbolting the pressure plate from the flywheel, shims should be installed to so that the pressure plate does not load. Since you are replacing your pressure plate, you wont have an issue upon reassembly (it should be pre-shimed), but this it makes it difficult to remove the lever from the old plate. Typically the lever/release bearing remain unloaded when the PP is shimed; therefore, the snap ring on the bearing is easier to deal with.

I used a slide hammer, which had an attachment that would grab the pilot bearing inner race. This made removing the pilot bearing very simple. I also placed the new bearing in the freezer overnight before installing.
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