Clutch write ups?
#1
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Clutch write ups?
Any good write ups on clutch job for the never models?
(this is for my 90GT)
Need to replace at least my T/O bearing it seems since it is starting to get noisy.
PO have replaced the clutch, propably only the disc though....
Thanks/Peter
(this is for my 90GT)
Need to replace at least my T/O bearing it seems since it is starting to get noisy.
PO have replaced the clutch, propably only the disc though....
Thanks/Peter
Last edited by Peter F; 06-29-2005 at 06:23 PM.
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Peter,
If you don't have the manuals or CD's I can PM you the section on clutch replacement. I thought there was a good write up somewhere but I couldn't find it. It's a very straightforward job. You will want to replace the pilot bearing also. I am sure Johns is a great write up but there are some differences between the old and new.
Let me know If I can help.
Jim
If you don't have the manuals or CD's I can PM you the section on clutch replacement. I thought there was a good write up somewhere but I couldn't find it. It's a very straightforward job. You will want to replace the pilot bearing also. I am sure Johns is a great write up but there are some differences between the old and new.
Let me know If I can help.
Jim
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Hi Paul and Jim,
thanks for the link Paul exactly the style I was looking for, I still think I have seen something similar for the newer version?
Jim, I do have the WSM on CD but thought they mixed between the new and old style quite a lot.
Perhaps it will be much clearer once starting the actual work.
I'm just trying to gather as much knowledge as possible before getting started.
Is there any special tools needed to remove the T/O bearing?
Will for sure change all necessary parts when in there, like the pilot bearing, guide tube etc.(still don't know if I have the old style of clutch arm, is there an easy way of finding out or do I have to pull everything out first?)
Cheers/Peter
thanks for the link Paul exactly the style I was looking for, I still think I have seen something similar for the newer version?
Jim, I do have the WSM on CD but thought they mixed between the new and old style quite a lot.
Perhaps it will be much clearer once starting the actual work.
I'm just trying to gather as much knowledge as possible before getting started.
Is there any special tools needed to remove the T/O bearing?
Will for sure change all necessary parts when in there, like the pilot bearing, guide tube etc.(still don't know if I have the old style of clutch arm, is there an easy way of finding out or do I have to pull everything out first?)
Cheers/Peter
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Hi Peter,
I went though some hassles trying to get my clutch out. Here my limited in scope "clutch page", with other RENNLIST member inputs, including my friends simple and effective $1.50 pilot bearing pullout tool: http://members.***.net/my_1987s4_928_a/clutch.html
I went though some hassles trying to get my clutch out. Here my limited in scope "clutch page", with other RENNLIST member inputs, including my friends simple and effective $1.50 pilot bearing pullout tool: http://members.***.net/my_1987s4_928_a/clutch.html
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I recently did my clutch and could not find much help on the single disk replacement. I took 130+ pics of the procedure but I have not been able to take the time to write everything up. When are you planning to do it? I may be able to pull out my notes and give you a couple of helpful hints.
You ought to go ahead and do the pilot bearing, RMS and the bushing that goes on the ball the clutch pivots on while you're in there. They are pretty easy to do if you have the right tools. I used the free rental of a bearing puller at AutoZone and used a piece of metal with a hole in it (similar to Voytek's wood piece) for leverage and it popped right out.
You ought to go ahead and do the pilot bearing, RMS and the bushing that goes on the ball the clutch pivots on while you're in there. They are pretty easy to do if you have the right tools. I used the free rental of a bearing puller at AutoZone and used a piece of metal with a hole in it (similar to Voytek's wood piece) for leverage and it popped right out.
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Hi,
Voytek, tried to access your link but could not open it?
John, the plan is to do this in a couple of weeks time.
(in the hope that this will not develop into the bearing grenading totally before)
If you could get something together based on your pics that would be great! (both for me and I'm sure for many others as well)
Can anyone tell if the arm can be identified being the old/new version still in the car.(just to know what spares to order in advance)
Thanks/Peter
Voytek, tried to access your link but could not open it?
John, the plan is to do this in a couple of weeks time.
(in the hope that this will not develop into the bearing grenading totally before)
If you could get something together based on your pics that would be great! (both for me and I'm sure for many others as well)
Can anyone tell if the arm can be identified being the old/new version still in the car.(just to know what spares to order in advance)
Thanks/Peter
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The 2 ' nubs' that the TO bearing sits on in the highlighted area is ground down so the TO bearing sits flush against the arm, as I recall.
Originally Posted by Peter F
Hi,
Voytek, tried to access your link but could not open it?
John, the plan is to do this in a couple of weeks time.
(in the hope that this will not develop into the bearing grenading totally before)
If you could get something together based on your pics that would be great! (both for me and I'm sure for many others as well)
Can anyone tell if the arm can be identified being the old/new version still in the car.(just to know what spares to order in advance)
Thanks/Peter
Voytek, tried to access your link but could not open it?
John, the plan is to do this in a couple of weeks time.
(in the hope that this will not develop into the bearing grenading totally before)
If you could get something together based on your pics that would be great! (both for me and I'm sure for many others as well)
Can anyone tell if the arm can be identified being the old/new version still in the car.(just to know what spares to order in advance)
Thanks/Peter
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Peter - You can pull the air box and see the top of the clutch arm where it connects to the pivot. I think you'll only be able to tell if it has the original, really small one, but the two updates look pretty close to the same size so I'm not sure you would be able to tell them apart. If you can get your hand down in there and feel the back of the bolt for the pivot you may be able to tell if it's 10mm or smaller.
Mine had already been changed, but the old clutch arm had worn a big divot in the top because the bushing had disappeared a long time before it was changed so I replaced it anyway.
Mine had already been changed, but the old clutch arm had worn a big divot in the top because the bushing had disappeared a long time before it was changed so I replaced it anyway.
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Aha, there are 2 differences int he newer arm? Also at some point they changed the guide tube OD. Or was it the TO bearing ID?? Regardless, my 91GT needed updates of both.
Jim
Jim
Originally Posted by deliriousga
Peter - You can pull the air box and see the top of the clutch arm where it connects to the pivot. I think you'll only be able to tell if it has the original, really small one, but the two updates look pretty close to the same size so I'm not sure you would be able to tell them apart. If you can get your hand down in there and feel the back of the bolt for the pivot you may be able to tell if it's 10mm or smaller.
Mine had already been changed, but the old clutch arm had worn a big divot in the top because the bushing had disappeared a long time before it was changed so I replaced it anyway.
Mine had already been changed, but the old clutch arm had worn a big divot in the top because the bushing had disappeared a long time before it was changed so I replaced it anyway.
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Yep, the guide tube is bigger and the inner diameter of the release bearing. I will try to get the write up going this weekend before I take off Sunday. If I can't, I'll PM you any of my notes, pics, etc.
Here are the changes to the assembly from the FSMs:
Here are the changes to the assembly from the FSMs:
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WSM page 30 - 6b calls for locally made sheet metal angles for keeping pressure plate compressed. On these one corner needs to be cut away fot piece to fit in place. We found out it's easier to use them if all four corners are cut like that. Then there's no need to think what way piece is inserted while working under car. Pieces do not need to be 38mm long but at least 2mm thickness helps.