Window Roller Question
02-26-2006, 12:36 AM
#16
Racer
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Well, the window roller is fixed. 
I don't have time to post the details at the moment, but Bill has pictures which I'm sure he will post. I will fill in the details later.
Steve B
I don't have time to post the details at the moment, but Bill has pictures which I'm sure he will post. I will fill in the details later.Steve B
02-26-2006, 03:09 AM
#18
Under the Lift
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Well, here is a photo summary of how we fixed the broken window lift wheel on Steve's GT.
First, here are the ideas for alternatives to the stock rivet, needed since we had not way to use the rivet. The stock rivet is on the left. Idea 1 next to it is what we finally used, based on a short 6mm bolt. The bearing sleeve is available at OSH hardware. The last idea, using a T-nut, would not work as the head of the T-nut was too large - the wheel (sorry no pic) has a recess into which the head must fit. The bolt head was fine diameter-wise and just needed shaving (grinding) down for height clearance. I could have ground the T-nut edges to get the correct diameter, but it was easier to thin the bolt head to fit the wheel's recess.
We did not remove the window regulator because Steve's door is Dynamatted. All the tarry goop covering the door panel that made locating the bolts that hold the window mechanism impossible. We just powered the window motor until the end of the lift arm was visible and drilled out the rivet that held the wheel. Here is a pic of the end of the window lift arm peeking through the door panel after we drilled out the rivet. It was hard center punching and drilling the arm as it was really not exposed enough, but we managed. Yes, we drilled out some of the arm metal, but no harm done. Plenty of metal left and the hole diameter was not opened through the arm.
Here is the new roller on a long bolt with the bushing/spacer inserted into the rail that runs on the bottom of the window. We went with a long bolt as we were not able to get to the head of the bolt to hold it when tightening the nut. We figured we could grab this end of the bolt, tighten the nut, then cut off the bolt. The nut cinched down tight on its own, so there was not need for the long bolt after all.
Bolt through the arm.
Nut cinched down with Loctite. Bolt was subsequently cut off with a Dremel wheel.
First, here are the ideas for alternatives to the stock rivet, needed since we had not way to use the rivet. The stock rivet is on the left. Idea 1 next to it is what we finally used, based on a short 6mm bolt. The bearing sleeve is available at OSH hardware. The last idea, using a T-nut, would not work as the head of the T-nut was too large - the wheel (sorry no pic) has a recess into which the head must fit. The bolt head was fine diameter-wise and just needed shaving (grinding) down for height clearance. I could have ground the T-nut edges to get the correct diameter, but it was easier to thin the bolt head to fit the wheel's recess.
We did not remove the window regulator because Steve's door is Dynamatted. All the tarry goop covering the door panel that made locating the bolts that hold the window mechanism impossible. We just powered the window motor until the end of the lift arm was visible and drilled out the rivet that held the wheel. Here is a pic of the end of the window lift arm peeking through the door panel after we drilled out the rivet. It was hard center punching and drilling the arm as it was really not exposed enough, but we managed. Yes, we drilled out some of the arm metal, but no harm done. Plenty of metal left and the hole diameter was not opened through the arm.
Here is the new roller on a long bolt with the bushing/spacer inserted into the rail that runs on the bottom of the window. We went with a long bolt as we were not able to get to the head of the bolt to hold it when tightening the nut. We figured we could grab this end of the bolt, tighten the nut, then cut off the bolt. The nut cinched down tight on its own, so there was not need for the long bolt after all.
Bolt through the arm.
Nut cinched down with Loctite. Bolt was subsequently cut off with a Dremel wheel.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 03-04-2008 at 12:48 AM.
04-19-2006, 04:36 PM
#20
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Dear readers,
I seem to have fallen in to the window problem club. My passenger side window will not roll up all the way and is tracking to far inward so the glass doesn't allign with the felt weather strip tracks. I've tried adjusting the rubber bumbers and the white plastic window mounts that go on the big guide bar, to no effect. After doing some reading here (thanks for the great post) I have discovered a few items.
1. The rubber bushing in the bottom of the guide bar was toast. On order!
2. The two white plastic guide bar window mounts look worn. On order!
3. The plastic lift roller that fits in the window channel is worn and cracked. On order!
So I have a pretty good handle on it but still a few questions. See the attched pics and please comment on the arm that the roller is mounted to, is it supposed to be bent / warped like this???
I am considering a refurb of the motor - clean it up etc.. Any hints or tips in doing so?
On a related note, if you're like me, installing the outer, lower window seal was quite the pain. Even after plenty of lube on that channel in the door and sliding the seal in I managed to have about 8 inches come OFF the channel in the middle of the window. I fabbed a tool out of an extra vertical blind mount which worked well (not pretty but works) in seating the seal fully (see the pic). I just slid the tool (bowed end) between the seal and glass and making sure you get between the seal fold, then push down with good pressure and pry up gently (pushing the seal toward the inside of the door skin) and the seal will pop in to the channel. Sure beats pulling it off again...
http://sio.midco.net/whelan4/Window001.jpg
http://sio.midco.net/whelan4/Window002.jpg
http://sio.midco.net/whelan4/Window003.jpg
http://sio.midco.net/whelan4/Window004.jpg
Thanks,
Pete Whelan
1988 928 S4 - Murph'd
I seem to have fallen in to the window problem club. My passenger side window will not roll up all the way and is tracking to far inward so the glass doesn't allign with the felt weather strip tracks. I've tried adjusting the rubber bumbers and the white plastic window mounts that go on the big guide bar, to no effect. After doing some reading here (thanks for the great post) I have discovered a few items.
1. The rubber bushing in the bottom of the guide bar was toast. On order!
2. The two white plastic guide bar window mounts look worn. On order!
3. The plastic lift roller that fits in the window channel is worn and cracked. On order!
So I have a pretty good handle on it but still a few questions. See the attched pics and please comment on the arm that the roller is mounted to, is it supposed to be bent / warped like this???
I am considering a refurb of the motor - clean it up etc.. Any hints or tips in doing so?
On a related note, if you're like me, installing the outer, lower window seal was quite the pain. Even after plenty of lube on that channel in the door and sliding the seal in I managed to have about 8 inches come OFF the channel in the middle of the window. I fabbed a tool out of an extra vertical blind mount which worked well (not pretty but works) in seating the seal fully (see the pic). I just slid the tool (bowed end) between the seal and glass and making sure you get between the seal fold, then push down with good pressure and pry up gently (pushing the seal toward the inside of the door skin) and the seal will pop in to the channel. Sure beats pulling it off again...
http://sio.midco.net/whelan4/Window001.jpg
http://sio.midco.net/whelan4/Window002.jpg
http://sio.midco.net/whelan4/Window003.jpg
http://sio.midco.net/whelan4/Window004.jpg
Thanks,
Pete Whelan
1988 928 S4 - Murph'd
04-20-2006, 12:41 AM
#22
Under the Lift
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Pictures 1 & 2 look OK. It needs that slight bend for clearance. It appears the wheel end is flat and oriented correctly. But after you get the wheel on, insert the arm and hold it in position and see how it mates up to the rail slot. If it's canted one way or the other, take it out and give it a little twist.
04-20-2006, 02:20 AM
#23
Drifting
The window motor and regulator remove from the door quite easily (see Nichol's Tips web site). But first run the window glass to full closed position.
Before unbolting the window motor and regulator, use a piece of bailing wire, and wire the glass up by looping it under the lower plastic guide on the vertical post; that will keep the window from falling after the motor/regulator is removed. I used a wire clip hung on a bolt access hole to secure the other end.
To remove the old plastic roller and rivet, use a center punch to locate a center for drilling out the old rivet from the side opposite the plastic roller.
Drill with a small drill first, then use a larger drill last (use the new rivet as a guage for the drill size). The old rivet, which was flattened during the manufacturing process, has created an expanded or coned shaped hole near the surface; so be careful not to widen the hole any further during drilling. After drilling, the old rivet can be carefully driven out with a punch and hammer.
Salvage the old rivet, as it should be used as a backup piece when pounding or flatting the new rivet. The rivet is recessed inside the plastic wheel, so you can't just pound the rivet without protecting the plastic wheel.
Using an anvil or bench vise, assemble the plastic wheel and rivet with axle grease. With the old rivet fitted as a backup, pound the rivet with a 10 pound hammer until it is secured to the arm. You don't need to flatten the rivet completely.
borland
90' S4
Before unbolting the window motor and regulator, use a piece of bailing wire, and wire the glass up by looping it under the lower plastic guide on the vertical post; that will keep the window from falling after the motor/regulator is removed. I used a wire clip hung on a bolt access hole to secure the other end.
To remove the old plastic roller and rivet, use a center punch to locate a center for drilling out the old rivet from the side opposite the plastic roller.
Drill with a small drill first, then use a larger drill last (use the new rivet as a guage for the drill size). The old rivet, which was flattened during the manufacturing process, has created an expanded or coned shaped hole near the surface; so be careful not to widen the hole any further during drilling. After drilling, the old rivet can be carefully driven out with a punch and hammer.
Salvage the old rivet, as it should be used as a backup piece when pounding or flatting the new rivet. The rivet is recessed inside the plastic wheel, so you can't just pound the rivet without protecting the plastic wheel.
Using an anvil or bench vise, assemble the plastic wheel and rivet with axle grease. With the old rivet fitted as a backup, pound the rivet with a 10 pound hammer until it is secured to the arm. You don't need to flatten the rivet completely.
borland
90' S4
