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Leak after fuel filter replacement

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Old 02-04-2006, 06:16 PM
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Bill Ball
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Default Leak after fuel filter replacement

Anybody had this happen? I replaced the fuel filter and the in-tank fuel pump. Didn't touch the external fuel pump. Buttoned it up. Observing it shows a very slow leak at the the fuel pump outlet. It's wetting and dripping off the end nut. I THINK it's coming from the pipe above it, where the arrow is pointing. Note the pipe is crimped/brazed? into the fitting there. When you remove the other end of this rigid line from the fuel filter it can put some stress on this point, I guess. I should have loosened the fuel pump so it could have moved with the line as I removed it from the fuel filter. Actually, I recall I had the fuel filter was loose, so I can't quite figure out how I created this leak. I only tweaked on this line a little when refitting to get it to line up and go back on to the filter. Dang!
Old 02-04-2006, 06:21 PM
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Ketchmi
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Chances are you loosened the check valve during your playing down there. The end nut may be tight but it must be removed to properly tighten the checkvalve. I have broken them loose by just bumping the fuel pump.
Old 02-04-2006, 06:24 PM
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Bill Ball
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Oh. Lemme look at that. THANKS DAVE!
Old 02-04-2006, 06:26 PM
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Garth S
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I'd be tempted to try an ~ 1/8 turn on the nut to get a better crush on the copper gaskets first .... or 'refresh' the gaskets ( anneal by heating or new). Gas under pressure is so mobile that it's difficult to pinpoint the leak. Perhaps with the fuel pump jumpered and a stream of compressed air handy, the area can be 'blasted' to better see the leak.
Old 02-04-2006, 06:32 PM
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Bill Ball
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I think I'll clamp off the tank outlet hose and take this apart and anneal as you suggest, Garth. I probably should have taken the opportunity to replace the check valve anyway. Also, you will notice this is the original pump (green) at 155K miles.

Thanks, you guys. I was going to look into replacing that line, but you've steered me in the much more likely correct direction.
Old 02-04-2006, 07:36 PM
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Bill Ball
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Yep, the check valve is loose at the base, just as Dave said!
Old 02-04-2006, 08:09 PM
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Bill Ball
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One last thing...what's the trick to tightening the check valve? The electrical posts block access with standard open ends.
Old 02-04-2006, 08:13 PM
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Garth S
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I would start by discombooberating the 'J' pipe and slipping a deep well socket into play ....
Old 02-04-2006, 08:41 PM
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jeff jackson
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I just had this same issue yesterday...Changed the fuelfilter...and started leaking a the pump discharge banjo bolt. There are copper crush washers on either side of the banjo bolt .You have to take the pump and filter off the car...get the nut broke loose on the outboard side of the banjo bolt, then using a screwdriver between the positve electrcal connector on the pump, and the pumps discharge port, hold and prevent the pump from turning while you tighten the nut on the outboard side of the banjo bolt. Tighten the nut up till the copper crush washers are snug to tight...then reinstall the pump and filter assembly, and all will be good...
Old 02-04-2006, 08:42 PM
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Bill Ball
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Yeah, it all apart. Deep well for the valve. It's still hard to hold the pump with an open end due to the posts, but I'll get it. Thanks Garth.
Old 02-04-2006, 08:59 PM
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jeff jackson
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Bill...if you refuse to use the screwdriver to hold the pump as I previously suggested...take a 17 mm open end wrench, and using your Dremel...grind the "ears" down till it will slip over the flat sides of the nut, and still slide between the terminals..I have done this to more than a few wrenches to hadle similar circumstances...
Old 02-04-2006, 09:01 PM
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Bill Ball
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OK, all better now. Check valve is tight, no drips.

Sorry I missed you suggestion, Jeff. Next time!
Old 04-17-2006, 11:33 PM
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Ted928
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Jeff - Thanks for the tool tip. You have relieved hours of gas pain.
Old 04-18-2006, 01:43 AM
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I have found it easiest to replace filter by removing whole pump/filter assy from car and do it on the bench. Then you are not compromised in getting correct access to all nuts for counter holds etc. The S pipe is very easy to twist and damage - recently replaced mine. Only extra work is r&r the electrical connections to the pump.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k.
Old 04-18-2006, 11:27 AM
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ROG100
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Bill,
Exactly the same issue on my GTS.
Leaking fuel - tighten banjo - think I have fixed it - no it still leaks - then I find the check valve is loose.
I also changed all the crush washers for good measure.
Close up of my patent design spanner (wrench) for the job.
I am thinking about reproducing the spanner and selling on eBay - not.
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Last edited by ROG100; 07-28-2009 at 05:21 PM.


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