Garth, can you think of any reason not to prep the paint with hand glaze first? Seems to me that the finish needs to be swirk free before the Rejex is applied.

 

Just make sure that whatever you use does not leave any kind of wax or swirl mark filler.

I was in on the first group buy, and I swear by this stuff. Nothing gives better bang for the buck or payback proportional to elbow grease invested, IMHO.

 

I am the laziest 928 owner ever, I wash the car about twice a year (I drive about 10k per year), and I've only tried waxing it once in four years (I gave up half way through). Will Rejex help me at all? I've found a supplier in the UK so I am considering it...

 

Dave,

Didn't the Rejex guy say (in a thread long ago) that it could be applied over wax, and that it would be just as slippery, but not as durable, lasting only as long as the wax itself?

In any case, I've Rejexed the Hell outta my car, and am not blown away by the results. I washed with dish soap first, and have applied so many midnight garage applications that they have strained my marriage! I'm a fanatic waxer, though, so maybe if I gave the Rejex the chance to show its durability, I'd more impressed.

I remember making a highway run in the rain, with Rejex on, maybe 40 miles or so each way. The grime on the car the next day was seriously attached, and I had to do some real scrubbing to get it off. It was Detroit road grime, though...

As it stands, It doesn't seem any more slippery, or dirt-shedding, than well maintained, good ol' carnauba. Am I crazy? Granted, the Rejex is easier to apply, and for that reason alone has become my "wax" of choice, but it is not head-and-shoulders above others, in my experience.

 

If you apply Rejex over wax it will coat the wax, not the paint. Try washing the wax off with Dawn and then applying the Rejex.

 

Chaadster,

There's more to it than what you describe. You have to start with the paint squeaky clean, then claybar it, then polish it. Then get it squeaky clean again, and apply the Rejex. Two coats in two days, buffing thoroughly each time. Key things to watch: Never let paint get above 85°F when applying or for 12 hours afterward. Allow Rejex to cure for a minimum of 8 hours INDOORS after each application.

Now here is where it blows wax out of the water: longevity. I'll give you an example. I did the above steps a week or two before Sharktoberfest 2004. That trip alone was pushing 1,000 miles. Then I went on the NorCal pizza run, 2004. Nicole & Ron remember, with the oil slick and the storm debris and muddy watter, almost everyone was grumbling about the mess and how hard it was to clean up. Did a bunch of other drives. Parked the car outdoors under a cover at night up until about April '05. Daily driver, remember? Oh, it got so caked with crap on the way up to Tahoe for SATL '05 and on the drives that I was calling it a mud shark. Lots of other drives, lots of rainy days(for NorCal), and by the time August rolled around, my car looked like the pic below at Devek Days '05.



Through all of this, all I ever did to keep the paint beautiful was run a duster over it before putting the cover on and washing it with Dawn every two or three weeks, and drying with microfiber towels. (stay away from terrycloth and/or towels that have been anywhere near fabric softener) There were folks at that event who complimented me on how shiny the car was -- I think Dr Bob was one -- and some were very surprised that it had stayed that way over 10 months of constant use!

So yes, Rejex will lose it's "slick" over time, but it keeps the shine for a very, very long time! How many times do you suppose you would have waxed a car that was treated this way over 10 months? I love my car, and I love keeping it shiny -- but frankly I have better things to do than wax it twice a month to keep it looking that way!

 

By time I got my day started in this time zone, I see that Dave has greatly expanded the application details - and mirrored identical results ( mirrored ... get it ... sorry ....).
As I understand the nature of Rejex, it is a monomer carried in a fluid base that looks and acts like a cream wax. It is left on the car undisturbed for the 12-16hr period ( no sunlight, moderate temps) to polymerize. This becomes the high strength, glossy film that bonds directly to the paint surface. By 'bond', I suspect that a mechanical bond is implied vs. a chemical one.
Having burbled all that, the answer as I understand it is that the long life depends on direct paint:rejex contact - use of any glaze, swirl filler, etc will not allow the direct contact and defeat the longevity aspect.
Barry ( of 'Rejex') may chime in , especially if this is wrong - but swirl fillers could likely be used after vs before Rejex application.

Pic attached: Still beads rain water and is reasonably glossy after 2 seasons - as it sadely entered hibernation mid Dec , ecsaping the first snowfall.

 

The strength of Rejex isn't its super shine right after application(but it isn't bad either)....its the fact that it will keep the same shine for a very long time! I know of several top concours competitors that use rejex exclusively on thier concours cars! That speaks volumes! The other plus is rejex is pretty easy to use...goes on and comes off easily...just have to be a little more careful about the temp when you use it (plus indoors)....doesn't leave much residue either! But, if you want that super slick wet look....then top level carnuba is hard to beat....BUT it only lasts that way about a week or two! Sharkskin has it right....with proper application it will look great for a very long time!

 

I just ordered two bottles of Rejex. Is there any benefit to giving the car a good coat of wax after the rejex cures? Or would that be a waste of time?

 

Brain:

My experience is that coating over Rejex it is a waste of time. Anything I put over it just reduces the shine. Now, Paul earlier in the thread reported different experience. He found Zaino on its own shined better than Rejex. I have always found that anything over a freshly, properly buffed finish, dulled it. Rejex didn't. Jeez, I feel like a Slick50 advocate, but this stuff just appears to be as good as it claims. I haven't reapplied it in over a year. I don't wash my car often, but when I do, I'm surprised to find the finish looking so good underneath.

 

Sharp looking beast! I love the wheels! Do you have other pics posted somewhere? I rarely see you post whole-car pics, usually it's just pieces(and assorted reading material )

 

It would be a huge waste of time. The abrasives found in most automotive waxes will strip the Rejex off!