Timing Belt on 16V engines
11-21-2006, 12:27 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Doesnt the stainless react with the aluminum and kinda weld together over time?
Originally Posted by PorKen
Get new (stainless) bolts when removing the water pump/thermostat housing.
...
Klim,
With the pan installed, it's difficult for anything to get up into the belt path. I have had the covers off for about three years, and have had no problems.
With the covers off, I am able to check the belt tension at will, spot any belt wander problems and quickly tell where leaks are coming from. Any maintenance takes half as long (water pump swap in 4 hours).
...
Klim,
With the pan installed, it's difficult for anything to get up into the belt path. I have had the covers off for about three years, and have had no problems.
With the covers off, I am able to check the belt tension at will, spot any belt wander problems and quickly tell where leaks are coming from. Any maintenance takes half as long (water pump swap in 4 hours).
11-21-2006, 02:26 PM
#32
Inventor
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Anti-seize.
I've been reconsidering the use of SS bolts - if you drop one, you can't pick it up with a magnet.
I've been reconsidering the use of SS bolts - if you drop one, you can't pick it up with a magnet.
11-21-2006, 02:40 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by PorKen
Anti-seize.
I've been reconsidering the use of SS bolts - if you drop one, you can't pick it up with a magnet.
I've been reconsidering the use of SS bolts - if you drop one, you can't pick it up with a magnet.
11-22-2006, 05:51 AM
#34
Drifting
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Great thread,
I could be going down this route very soon as my coolant boils up and the rad stays cold. Changed the thermostat with no luck so I guess I am down to a blocked rad or a broken water pump. Umlikely to be the Rad as I took it out and had it refurbished last year but anyway I will check the rad next.
Somebody mentioned the 16v teardown is not described in the manual so a couple of dumb general questions.
The writeups say that it is important to mark the cam wheel positions before removing the belt. Many people also say it is best practice to change all the belt wheels. Is it relatively easy to transfer the marks from the old cam wheels to the new? I did not see this mentioned anywhere.
The second point is that the biggest problem seems to be to remove the crank shaft nut. Is this only done to replace the belt wheel and/or crank seal or must the nut come off anyway?
Marton
I could be going down this route very soon as my coolant boils up and the rad stays cold. Changed the thermostat with no luck so I guess I am down to a blocked rad or a broken water pump. Umlikely to be the Rad as I took it out and had it refurbished last year but anyway I will check the rad next.
Somebody mentioned the 16v teardown is not described in the manual so a couple of dumb general questions.
The writeups say that it is important to mark the cam wheel positions before removing the belt. Many people also say it is best practice to change all the belt wheels. Is it relatively easy to transfer the marks from the old cam wheels to the new? I did not see this mentioned anywhere.
The second point is that the biggest problem seems to be to remove the crank shaft nut. Is this only done to replace the belt wheel and/or crank seal or must the nut come off anyway?
Marton
11-22-2006, 01:08 PM
#36
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Hi Dave,
about
yes that is what I hoped. I guess you missed the part where I wrote
I think the new thermostat is working OK because the top hose gets hot & and even a small part of the top of the side tank.
Marton
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that could be as simple as a stuck-open thermostat...
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Changed the thermostat with no luck
Marton
11-22-2006, 02:07 PM
#38
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did you replace the rubber gasket/sealing ring under the thermostat?
Someone suggested I temporarily take off the short hose to the heater disc valve and put a longer transparent hose there - then I should be able to see the coolant being driven by the pump if it is working - especially if the hose is long enough so it has some air in it.
Marton
11-22-2006, 03:11 PM
#39
Inventor
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16V cam gears are static. Some have reported some slop in the keyway, or made some, but normally, the gears only just fit over the key.
If the other gears are shiny, have sharp edges, and/or are cupped (worn down in the center) then they should be replaced.
The nut has to come off so you can remove the balancer, and then you can replace the timing belt.
If the other gears are shiny, have sharp edges, and/or are cupped (worn down in the center) then they should be replaced.
Originally Posted by marton
The writeups say that it is important to mark the cam wheel positions before removing the belt.
Many people also say it is best practice to change all the belt wheels.
Many people also say it is best practice to change all the belt wheels.
Originally Posted by marton
The second point is that the biggest problem seems to be to remove the crank shaft nut. Is this only done to replace the belt wheel and/or crank seal or must the nut come off anyway?
