Suspension, AT, and TT out of the car...now what?
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Three Wheelin'
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Suspension, AT, and TT out of the car...now what?
I didn't realize it was going to be that much work and I'm thinking I'd better make sure I do all of the WYIT stuff because I prefer never having to this again...on the same car
I'm upgrading from 3spd AT to 4spd AT
Bought the 4sp off ebay from someone who swore up and down it only has 20,000 miles on a rebuild.
some questions:
1) How do I verify the 4spd tranny or what should I do to it prior to installation?
2) Best way to flush lines and cooler from metal shavings from previous tranny?
3) Recommendations for cleaning the underside of the car? pretty nasty down there
3) Anyone knows the P/N for the cable that I need for the 4spd? or do they share the same cable?
4) Recommendations on installing the kickdown switch? Should I bother with installing it or should I jump straight to a manual, on demand switch?
5) Although the TT that Abby donated to me seems good, I'm realizing it would be smart to rebuild it anyway. Can't seem to find the home rebuild procedure someone on here posted at some point. Help finding it please.
6) Best way to "compare" coil overs with a set I had removed from another car? I would like to install the set that is in better condition when it's time to put it back together
Lots of questions...any insight would be appreciated.
I'm upgrading from 3spd AT to 4spd AT
Bought the 4sp off ebay from someone who swore up and down it only has 20,000 miles on a rebuild.
some questions:
1) How do I verify the 4spd tranny or what should I do to it prior to installation?
2) Best way to flush lines and cooler from metal shavings from previous tranny?
3) Recommendations for cleaning the underside of the car? pretty nasty down there
3) Anyone knows the P/N for the cable that I need for the 4spd? or do they share the same cable?
4) Recommendations on installing the kickdown switch? Should I bother with installing it or should I jump straight to a manual, on demand switch?
5) Although the TT that Abby donated to me seems good, I'm realizing it would be smart to rebuild it anyway. Can't seem to find the home rebuild procedure someone on here posted at some point. Help finding it please.
6) Best way to "compare" coil overs with a set I had removed from another car? I would like to install the set that is in better condition when it's time to put it back together
Lots of questions...any insight would be appreciated.
#2
Dean of Rennlist, "I'm Listening"
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How are your CV axles WYAIT?
#3
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Can't help much more with the transmission other than whats in PET...........the cable is there also. Can you get the car in the air and 'steam clean'? Flushing the lines and cooler can be done with a manual oil pump..............load it with ATF, attach to one cooler line, force the fluid through and catch at the other end. Tony has a write up on the TT on his site.
Compare the coil overs by taking them apart, measuring the free spring length and choose the better..........at the same time compress the shocks by hand and see how long it takes them to 'rebound'..............you'll soon know if they're good or not.
Compare the coil overs by taking them apart, measuring the free spring length and choose the better..........at the same time compress the shocks by hand and see how long it takes them to 'rebound'..............you'll soon know if they're good or not.
#4
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Originally Posted by bigs
How are your CV axles WYAIT?
Thanks
#5
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
Can't help much more with the transmission other than whats in PET...........the cable is there also. Can you get the car in the air and 'steam clean'? Flushing the lines and cooler can be done with a manual oil pump..............load it with ATF, attach to one cooler line, force the fluid through and catch at the other end. Tony has a write up on the TT on his site.
Compare the coil overs by taking them apart, measuring the free spring length and choose the better..........at the same time compress the shocks by hand and see how long it takes them to 'rebound'..............you'll soon know if they're good or not.
Compare the coil overs by taking them apart, measuring the free spring length and choose the better..........at the same time compress the shocks by hand and see how long it takes them to 'rebound'..............you'll soon know if they're good or not.
Plenty of advice there...thanks. Car is about 20 inches in the air. Plenty of room for my little body to get in there and shoot water upwards...I just have to figure out which steam cleaner to rent.
As for the tranny lines, that was my initial intention with the cooler and lines using "transmission cleaner" products off the shelf. The challenge will be to fit the lines to that of the manual pump (plan on using the brake power bleeder). Your response is giving me the confidence to do it.
Coilovers: now why didn't I think of that? Thanks
#6
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I wouldn't bother trying to use the bleeder to flush the lines. Not enough volume or velocity. If it was me... I'd hook up one of those drill-mounted fluid pumps with a hose or two. Use a 1-gal plastic bottle, some paint thinner to flush. Push the paint thinner through the lines with the pump, let the returning fluid fall into the plastic bottle. Follow the thinner with some compressed air. Repeat the procedure with denatured alcohol to get all the thinner out. Dry the system again with compressed air, then use the pump to force a quart or two of ATF through there before reattaching the lines to the transmission.
One of our cleaning contractors uses a "froth flush" of foam, pushed by compressed air, to clean large-bore piping before it's put in service. The 'froth' is a high-pH detergent in water, and they are able to maintain a sufficient 'cleaning force ratio' (defiend in terms of mass and velocity) to get solids moving in the lines, buoyed b the surface tension of the bubbles in the froth. Pretty cool stuff!
One of our cleaning contractors uses a "froth flush" of foam, pushed by compressed air, to clean large-bore piping before it's put in service. The 'froth' is a high-pH detergent in water, and they are able to maintain a sufficient 'cleaning force ratio' (defiend in terms of mass and velocity) to get solids moving in the lines, buoyed b the surface tension of the bubbles in the froth. Pretty cool stuff!
#7
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Tarek..............your welcome; I have my 'slightly used' shocks on the shelf if interested?
Doc...........I was going to suggest using some sort of compressed air system to drive clean fluid through the tranny lines and cooler but was siding on the cautious approach. The 'froth flush' sounds interesting.............no worries about residual contamination?
Doc...........I was going to suggest using some sort of compressed air system to drive clean fluid through the tranny lines and cooler but was siding on the cautious approach. The 'froth flush' sounds interesting.............no worries about residual contamination?
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#8
Road Warrior
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raise the stall on your torque converter while it's out. I did mine from stock (around 1600rpm) to about 2150rpm and it pulled off the line like it was on a catapult compared to stock form. it's cheap (under $300), and it'll make more holeshot gains than chip, rmb or headers, IMO... any good trans shop should be able to do it or recommend someone that can... if you go too high, it'll start to affect drivability - although I had one set to 3500rpm on a street racer once. but 2150 or so seems pretty tame/easy to drive yet a major assist on an aggressive start
#9
The shifter cable will work with a loop in it. Its a different system. Just look at the ends and you will see the difference.
On the subject you should concern yourself with - the bowden cable - from the throttle to the passenger side of the trans. You will need to figure that out with relation to getting a later version of the cable, and then the proper input piece to go into the o-ring area there on the trans. Or buy the cable from Porsche for 300 dollars and make your life easier.
On the subject you should concern yourself with - the bowden cable - from the throttle to the passenger side of the trans. You will need to figure that out with relation to getting a later version of the cable, and then the proper input piece to go into the o-ring area there on the trans. Or buy the cable from Porsche for 300 dollars and make your life easier.
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Originally Posted by dr bob
I wouldn't bother trying to use the bleeder to flush the lines. Not enough volume or velocity. If it was me... I'd hook up one of those drill-mounted fluid pumps with a hose or two. Use a 1-gal plastic bottle, some paint thinner to flush. Push the paint thinner through the lines with the pump, let the returning fluid fall into the plastic bottle. Follow the thinner with some compressed air. Repeat the procedure with denatured alcohol to get all the thinner out. Dry the system again with compressed air, then use the pump to force a quart or two of ATF through there before reattaching the lines to the transmission.
#12
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Originally Posted by 928SS
raise the stall on your torque converter while it's out. I did mine from stock (around 1600rpm) to about 2150rpm and it pulled off the line like it was on a catapult compared to stock form. it's cheap (under $300), and it'll make more holeshot gains than chip, rmb or headers, IMO... any good trans shop should be able to do it or recommend someone that can... if you go too high, it'll start to affect drivability - although I had one set to 3500rpm on a street racer once. but 2150 or so seems pretty tame/easy to drive yet a major assist on an aggressive start
#13
Originally Posted by TAREK
I like mechanics like I do insurance agents...also no offense)....
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#14
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Originally Posted by BrendanC
The shifter cable will work with a loop in it. Its a different system. Just look at the ends and you will see the difference.
On the subject you should concern yourself with - the bowden cable - from the throttle to the passenger side of the trans. You will need to figure that out with relation to getting a later version of the cable, and then the proper input piece to go into the o-ring area there on the trans. Or buy the cable from Porsche for 300 dollars and make your life easier.
On the subject you should concern yourself with - the bowden cable - from the throttle to the passenger side of the trans. You will need to figure that out with relation to getting a later version of the cable, and then the proper input piece to go into the o-ring area there on the trans. Or buy the cable from Porsche for 300 dollars and make your life easier.
$300 ?? yikes! I must admit it didn't look intuitive to me right off the bat... I think I'll be revisiting your previous help in pm and your posts here and hope I figure it out eventually...I haven't been under the car in a couple of days, and visual memory is failing me right now. Thanks again
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Originally Posted by macreel
Tarek... get an "Upfixin' ", Vol. X, pg.34
Details there for a 3 - to- 4 speed swap.
G'luck.
Details there for a 3 - to- 4 speed swap.
G'luck.