Automatic transmission issues
12-30-2005, 05:56 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by Darien Nunn
Pic's 
The WSM was pretty much spot on (pg. 38-143) except for the picture of the axial holder (its a little arm that keeps the governor from coming out). The axial nut is right above the resevoir. It is MUCH easier to get to all this stuff if you just remove the intermediate mufflers and shields.
1: Remove intermediate mufflers
2: remove intermediate sheilds
3: use a 10mm to loosen the nut for the axial holder (pic 1)
4: using a short flat-head screwdriver, rotate the center-screw a few degrees counter-clockwise and it will hit a stop (pic 1)
5: Using a small screwdriver in the notch at the top, remove the circlip holding the door to the governor's home (pic 2)
6: Using the same screwdriver, pry lightly at different angles against the door and it'll come off (pic 2)
7: Pull the governor out (pic 3)
Sorry for the horrible picture quality. I used a cellphone to take the picture.
Edit: I just wanted to mention... don't take that circlip off the gear-shaft unless you have a good circlip tool. Its kind of a bitch to get on/off with the standard crappy craftsman tool.
12-30-2005, 05:57 PM
#17
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hehe... just outta curiosity, I started the car up without the intermediates. I hope the authorities don't come over here after blipping the throttle a few times 
01-04-2006, 03:49 PM
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What am I looking for when I take the valve body off? I'm kind of afraid that I won't see anything wrong with it when I remove it.
Also, is there any 928-friendly transmission cleaning stuff I can put in the resevoir?
Also, is there any 928-friendly transmission cleaning stuff I can put in the resevoir?
01-04-2006, 05:08 PM
#20
Drifting
The filter should filter out most wear particles, so dropping the valve body isn't likely to show any problems.
Sediments in the pan will show wear from bands and friction discs, however if the pan has been removed before (like from a PO), this may not present a complete picture.
I cleaned my reservoir with a toothbrush, citrus degreaser, and water.
Sediments in the pan will show wear from bands and friction discs, however if the pan has been removed before (like from a PO), this may not present a complete picture.
I cleaned my reservoir with a toothbrush, citrus degreaser, and water.
01-04-2006, 05:27 PM
#21
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Are you sure it's not a fluid level issue? When you refilled the tranny, how much ATF did you put in? When you are checking the levels, are doing so immediately after running the tranny through all of the gears?
01-04-2006, 08:06 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by atb
Are you sure it's not a fluid level issue? When you refilled the tranny, how much ATF did you put in? When you are checking the levels, are doing so immediately after running the tranny through all of the gears?
1) The tranny fluid was replaced
2) I drove the car around and realized i still had the problem
3) While the car was in park and on level ground, I checked the resevoir and ensured that the fluid level was correct.
I am 99% sure this is not a fluid level issue. Something is wrong with the transmission. The transmission does NOT slip in any gear. I can make the transmission shift by slipping it into neutral, then back to drive. The only gear it shifts on its own is from 1 to 2, and that only occurs at 4000rpm regardless of throttle position. I have also verified it is not an issue with the tranny recieving a vacuum signal. I unplugged its vac source and noticed that it shifted a little harder (when I used the neutral trick) which is expected, but the core issue was still there.
01-04-2006, 10:16 PM
#23
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If the governor is out of the transmission, check for a worn governor or bore, where the smallest part fits into the case. You can drop governor pressure with a worn bore or governor. If it’s not worn do the following.
Disconnect the Bowden cable (pressure control cable) from the throttle linkage, driver’s side of the car. While holding the outer housing of the cable with one hand pull the inner cable out with the other hand, as far as you can, then let it go, the cable should feel springy and pull back into its housing. If it doesn’t the plunger in the valve body in stuck. Rebuilt VB. If it does pull back do not reconnect the cable, just let it hag there.
Remove the kick down solenoid from the electrical panel (XV) and drive the car, yes with the cable off, post your findings.
Disconnect the Bowden cable (pressure control cable) from the throttle linkage, driver’s side of the car. While holding the outer housing of the cable with one hand pull the inner cable out with the other hand, as far as you can, then let it go, the cable should feel springy and pull back into its housing. If it doesn’t the plunger in the valve body in stuck. Rebuilt VB. If it does pull back do not reconnect the cable, just let it hag there.
Remove the kick down solenoid from the electrical panel (XV) and drive the car, yes with the cable off, post your findings.
01-04-2006, 10:29 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by mspiegle
1) The tranny fluid was replaced
2) I drove the car around and realized i still had the problem
3) While the car was in park and on level ground, I checked the resevoir and ensured that the fluid level was correct.
I am 99% sure this is not a fluid level issue. Something is wrong with the transmission. The transmission does NOT slip in any gear. I can make the transmission shift by slipping it into neutral, then back to drive. The only gear it shifts on its own is from 1 to 2, and that only occurs at 4000rpm regardless of throttle position. I have also verified it is not an issue with the tranny recieving a vacuum signal. I unplugged its vac source and noticed that it shifted a little harder (when I used the neutral trick) which is expected, but the core issue was still there.
2) I drove the car around and realized i still had the problem
3) While the car was in park and on level ground, I checked the resevoir and ensured that the fluid level was correct.
I am 99% sure this is not a fluid level issue. Something is wrong with the transmission. The transmission does NOT slip in any gear. I can make the transmission shift by slipping it into neutral, then back to drive. The only gear it shifts on its own is from 1 to 2, and that only occurs at 4000rpm regardless of throttle position. I have also verified it is not an issue with the tranny recieving a vacuum signal. I unplugged its vac source and noticed that it shifted a little harder (when I used the neutral trick) which is expected, but the core issue was still there.
Is the kick-down relay stuck?
Did you check it?
Turn ignition on but don't start the engine. Put it in D and depress the accelerator fully down to the kickdown. You should hear a click when he relays engages one from the inside (circuit board) and another from the tranny (kickdown solenoid).
If the kick-down is activated shifting from 1st into 2nd occurs under full throttle @ 4950 RPM. 2nd and 3rd shift @ 5950 RPM.
01-04-2006, 10:30 PM
#25
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Originally posted by mspiegle:
I caught in your earlier post that you replaced the fluid, my question was how much ATF did you put in the tranny when you did the fluid replacement.
Your #3 is not the proper way to check the ATF level and could yield a false "full" reading.
I'm not an A/T expert so I won't try to convince you otherwise, just trying to lend a hand.
1) The tranny fluid was replaced
2) I drove the car around and realized i still had the problem
3) While the car was in park and on level ground, I checked the resevoir and ensured that the fluid level was correct.
2) I drove the car around and realized i still had the problem
3) While the car was in park and on level ground, I checked the resevoir and ensured that the fluid level was correct.
Your #3 is not the proper way to check the ATF level and could yield a false "full" reading.
I am 99% sure this is not a fluid level issue. Something is wrong with the transmission.
01-04-2006, 10:40 PM
#26
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If it's not the kick-down. Does the throttle cable down to the tranny work properly? Could it be that it is broken? When the tranny started to act up could it be due to a failing cable (stretching)?
01-05-2006, 02:40 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by atb
Originally posted by mspiegle:
I caught in your earlier post that you replaced the fluid, my question was how much ATF did you put in the tranny when you did the fluid replacement.
Your #3 is not the proper way to check the ATF level and could yield a false "full" reading.
I'm not an A/T expert so I won't try to convince you otherwise, just trying to lend a hand.
I caught in your earlier post that you replaced the fluid, my question was how much ATF did you put in the tranny when you did the fluid replacement.
Your #3 is not the proper way to check the ATF level and could yield a false "full" reading.
I'm not an A/T expert so I won't try to convince you otherwise, just trying to lend a hand.
Adam,
I checked the WSM, and I thought that's what I read. Maybe i'm imagining things though. Trust me, I appreciate your help (and everyone else's), but i'm just frustrated =(
01-05-2006, 02:41 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Schocki
Is the kick-down relay stuck?
Did you check it?
Turn ignition on but don't start the engine. Put it in D and depress the accelerator fully down to the kickdown. You should hear a click when he relays engages one from the inside (circuit board) and another from the tranny (kickdown solenoid).
If the kick-down is activated shifting from 1st into 2nd occurs under full throttle @ 4950 RPM. 2nd and 3rd shift @ 5950 RPM.
Did you check it?
Turn ignition on but don't start the engine. Put it in D and depress the accelerator fully down to the kickdown. You should hear a click when he relays engages one from the inside (circuit board) and another from the tranny (kickdown solenoid).
If the kick-down is activated shifting from 1st into 2nd occurs under full throttle @ 4950 RPM. 2nd and 3rd shift @ 5950 RPM.
01-05-2006, 02:41 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by Steve Cattaneo
If the governor is out of the transmission, check for a worn governor or bore, where the smallest part fits into the case. You can drop governor pressure with a worn bore or governor. If it’s not worn do the following.
Disconnect the Bowden cable (pressure control cable) from the throttle linkage, driver’s side of the car. While holding the outer housing of the cable with one hand pull the inner cable out with the other hand, as far as you can, then let it go, the cable should feel springy and pull back into its housing. If it doesn’t the plunger in the valve body in stuck. Rebuilt VB. If it does pull back do not reconnect the cable, just let it hag there.
Remove the kick down solenoid from the electrical panel (XV) and drive the car, yes with the cable off, post your findings.
Disconnect the Bowden cable (pressure control cable) from the throttle linkage, driver’s side of the car. While holding the outer housing of the cable with one hand pull the inner cable out with the other hand, as far as you can, then let it go, the cable should feel springy and pull back into its housing. If it doesn’t the plunger in the valve body in stuck. Rebuilt VB. If it does pull back do not reconnect the cable, just let it hag there.
Remove the kick down solenoid from the electrical panel (XV) and drive the car, yes with the cable off, post your findings.
01-10-2006, 02:59 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by Steve Cattaneo
If the governor is out of the transmission, check for a worn governor or bore, where the smallest part fits into the case. You can drop governor pressure with a worn bore or governor. If it’s not worn do the following.
Disconnect the Bowden cable (pressure control cable) from the throttle linkage, driver’s side of the car. While holding the outer housing of the cable with one hand pull the inner cable out with the other hand, as far as you can, then let it go, the cable should feel springy and pull back into its housing. If it doesn’t the plunger in the valve body in stuck. Rebuilt VB. If it does pull back do not reconnect the cable, just let it hag there.
Remove the kick down solenoid from the electrical panel (XV) and drive the car, yes with the cable off, post your findings.
Disconnect the Bowden cable (pressure control cable) from the throttle linkage, driver’s side of the car. While holding the outer housing of the cable with one hand pull the inner cable out with the other hand, as far as you can, then let it go, the cable should feel springy and pull back into its housing. If it doesn’t the plunger in the valve body in stuck. Rebuilt VB. If it does pull back do not reconnect the cable, just let it hag there.
Remove the kick down solenoid from the electrical panel (XV) and drive the car, yes with the cable off, post your findings.
The governor looked very clean when it came out. I did not notice any excessive wearing.
I disconnected the Bowden cable and noticed that it seemed to be more "spongy" than "springy". It didn't seem to have a defined start/stop and it seems like the spring action could have pulled the cable back in a little farther, but I'm not sure if this is the way its supposed to be.
I removed both relays XV and XVII. The relay chart I had for the car mentioned that XVII was the kickdown. I have not noticed any change in driveability with the Bowden cable disconnected and the kickdown relay out.
One thing I noticed when driving it this morning (haven't driven it for a week), is that if I start driving and go up to 4000rpms, then let off the throttle, the tach will drop back to idle. When I get on the gas again right away, the tranny seems to be in "neutral" until it can get back up to 4000rpms (where I originally left off) at which point it engages and continues to drive.