Landseer

Well, a great way is the Porken liftbars. You can search that.

For lifting 3 notches or so on jackstands, I do it like this:

Jack right rear jackpoint very high. Place right front jackstand. Lower jack.

Jack left rear slowly. Car may teeter / go very slow / stop the teeter. Lift left fender by hand if needed and slip jackstand under left front at same setting as right front. Lower jack.

Car is now raised in front.

Go to rear license plate. Roll jack under cross member, center it L/R, and be careful to miss trans F/R. Lift to equivalent height.

At this point if I need to go higher, I raise the rear a couple notches higher.

Then, back to the front, this time to the bash plates. Very carefully I lift the right and raise the right front stand, and then move to the left and raise the left front stand.


I'd rather go around twice like that than lift it all the way at once. Too hairy to lift higher in one move.

Setting it down is the reverse of above. Probably done this 50 or 60 times now. Don't be tempted to use the frame rails --- too light. I've done it with 3X3 "ex-table leg" to spread the load, but it still gives and will crack the inside coating on the floor.

jon928se

No central jack point at front.

jack rear of 928 under centre of rear cross member. place jackstands under both rear body jack points,
Jack front under front jack point as high as you can. place jack stand under pposite front jack point.

jack under same side front bash plate and even up front side to side, place jack stand undee remaining front jack point.


Better - buy Liftbars.

linderpat

Ahh, the inner net


Back on topic...Get Porken's liftbars. If you plan to do alot of lifting, these are the best investment you can make short of an actual lift.

paalw

Old thread but i have a question.

When i got my tires changed at a workshop they liftet the front of the car with a centre hydraulic lifter on the plate under the steering rack. Is this safe or will it damage anything? The steering wheel moved freely while car was in the air.

The guys at the workshop noticed a little play when grabbing each front wheel at top and bottom and wiggleing it in and out(camber play, sort of). This was on both front wheels, one a bit more than the other. The thing is that i have not noticed this before, but i can't say for sure it wasn't like this before the lift.

Could the lift be the reason, or was it probably something i just had not noticed? And, does anyone know what the issue might probably be?

Bill Ball

That plate is bolted to the crossmember, but both are just pressed steel and might deform when trying to support 1/2 of the car's weight. I don't know. I wouldn't use it. The effect of using a lot of these non-standard potential lift points depends on how it was done - i.e, whether a jack was applied at a small point versus using a lift plate that spreads the load over a large area.

The play they observed could be worn ball joints (on the upper control arm and tie rods), upper control arm bushings, steering rack mount bushing, steering rack shaft bushings or loose wheel bearings. With most of those you would expect play side to side (3 and 9 o'clock) as well. Locking the brakes will help rule out loose wheel bearings if the play is still there. Otherwise, it's a matter of looking at the components I mentioned as the play is demonstrated or prying on these components to see if they show movement.

MjRocket

Make life easier and get a set of Porken Lift-Bars.

Mj

69gaugeman

I've lifted all my 928s from the front cross member at one time or other. It is plenty strong enough. It is a box beam with the cover plate on it.