H2

Attached (I hope) are fotos of 928 tensioner systems taken from this discussion session. On the tensioner arms please notice that the later T-arm shows the center of the tensioner roller set further out (i.e., more towards the front of the engine it appears). There must have been an advantage to moving to this design. Also, I'm of the impression that the later arm styles may be retrofitted to the earlier 32V cars. Right? Anyone done this? If so, what all needs to be purchased and replaced? Does this include the Tbelt covers?

Harvey

H2

I put Garth's name on one of jpg foto names to give credit but it didn't show up. Sorry Garth. BTW, Garth did NOT submit the last foto of the well used Tensioner arms, although they do show the same difference. And they're not from my car. Just want that to be clear...if you think those are grungy you should see the worn tit hole on the arm assembly on the left. Online purchase. I'll have to throw it away it's so worn. Line up the groove in the center of each roller with the center of the "tit hole" and you'll quickly notice the difference.

Harvey

H2

I also should clarify that Garth's tit holes are in great shape. Congratulations Garth!

Harvey

heinrich

Harv, some dude asked that a long time ago and another dude answered, here: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...t=centre+cover

Garth S

Well, * blush* thanks! I've just learned in the previous thread that the erect spot in their center equates to a 'nice set of zerks'. .

The tensioners shown above are the early '80 type ( no hydraulic damper chamber, no bleed screws), and the '83 - '85 type with bleed bolts. The S4 type has a 7.4mm deeper body to allow the centerline of the plunger to center on the TB, and bleed screws are used as on a brake caliper.
What I cannot recall is the '86 type - they have the bleed screws, but I'm uncertain if they had the deeper 'S4' body. ... need to examine Rick's '86.5 on the next TB check ....


Oh, the carrier arms in the last pic .... nice ebay score!

H2

Thanks, Heinrich, for the reminder. Two things are obvious....I've not fully resolved the tensioner/cam gears/tensioner arm/ and belt alignment issue to my total satisfaction and I keep fishing for more tidbits to digest....and I apparently have incipient azheimers setting in. When you get my age, you'll begin to understand. I'd forgotten completely about the informative, previous post.

I've, in fact, purchased all of what I hope will be needed to change over the tensioner system in my '85 to the newer S4 type. I still need a new tensioner arm with a "tit hole" that's not worn. Nothing that $125 won't fix I guess. Wish I could get a cheaper one. Just want to make double sure that it's going to work and that I have all the parts before I start the job soon as the snow thaws.

Also, I'm toying with the idea of changing out the cam gears at the same time for new...only I don't want to go through all the rig a marole of having the cams "snap back" into some odd position that makes the job a double PITA. I'm hoping the PorKen's tool will save the day but I'm also waiting on more reports from people who've used his cam tool.

I hope you young guys will have patience. Someday we'll all be pushing daisys. Life's too short to go slow.

Harvey
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Harv, some dude asked that a long time ago and another dude answered, here: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforu...ht=centre+cover

FlyingDog

Have you tried Jim B or Rixter for the tensioner arm?

Swapping cam sprockets is easy. I had to replace mine. Then I needed to swap mine back and forth a few times to figure out which part was warped. Even if they do snap somewhere, they can only be so far out of alignment because the holes are indexed.

SharkSkin

Hey man, I started out trying to be serious...