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I would suggest someone start a dedicated engine management thread to keep those topics organized. To the best of my knowledge, there is currently no plug-and-play option for the LH/EZK cars... namely because its difficult to get the connectors (destructive modification of an original computer or the harness). That is why I made the adapter boards.
It would be fairly simple to make a dedicated housing and interface PCB for either the MS3pro mainboard or the VEMS mainboard, but those would be dedicated solutions, while the above adapter board works with any computer.
The stock LH/EZK and Sharktuner solution is well documented, and supported. Going standalone takes people to a realm where there will be little support, and a good fundamental understanding of underlying logic is necessary. Point in case - read the ST manual, and then try and read the VEMS "manual". Its very flexible hardware, but the documentation is lacking, non specific, and updated through a hodgepodge of wiki and forum. Bottom line, if you cant make your own harness, its probably not the best idea to even consider it converting.
Engine management is a very fascinating topic, and worth discussing, and as such, someone should start a dedicated thread. I will say that my vote would be to stick with LH/EZK/ST if you intend on using the stock harness and your build supports it. There will be limited advantages with a conversion while retaining the stock batch-fire configuration. The only advantage I can see beyond, better internal logging and long-term O2 adaptation, would be more flexible sensors.
The throttles are currently being machined. I can try and stop by the shop tomorrow and check in. I also am going to have them quote some billet fuel rails as an improvement to the extruded design I used with the lower intake manifold project.
I am going to test an Australian produced throttle cam to see if that will clear the firewall. If so, I dont have to machine my own, and then the throttle linkage would be done. I will report back on how that goes.
The intercooler pump I wanted to use is not currently available, and may not be in the future. The Varimax pump was the best fit for the project, but now am faced with either the expensive CWA50/CWA100 pumps or the Bosch 0392022010. The Bosch is commonly available, and a solid pump, but flows about half as much as the CWA50. I need to make that decision so I can have the mounts fabricated and finish up the plumbging.
speaking of plug and play, Greg Brown has really dialed in my stroker on the LINK system,,,,you are welcome to the files to start your tuning if link is the system you are going with !!
The rain let up this evening just long enough to plunk the manifold and throttle linkage test jig on the mule. The Aussie throttle pulley clears with a finger worth of clearance. Same as the idle valve adapter.
There is a picture of the filter housing mockup on the valve cover too, since it was handy.
Getting the throttle housings back will be a huge step towards the finish line.
Hans,
You may want to go with the slower intercooler pump, if the flow is too fast there is no time for cooling, too slow and it gets too hot. I'm sure you have thought of this.
Later, Woody
ref I/C pump. Im on my second one in i dont know how many years now.? Sees some VERY hot temps. I think im still running one off the old mustangs. Ford part number im sure. If i find a reason to get in there i will double check. Just getting a hint of detonation right now in some extreme heat, but when its over 100 OAT, the IAT is probably well north of 150'F I just drive it easier in the summer anyway as it tends to overheat, This is another issue you WILL have to address in hot climates. Not enough cooling capacity with the added drag and heat the SC develops..AC running etc
Speaking of cooling, lets get the brain trust together and talk about intercooler pumps. The TechAFX Varimax pump was probably the best option/value... but it appears to be a dead product line. That leaves just a few contenders in the mid-flow range (we dont need to run a EMP WP29 for our configuration):
All of the above will flow between 5 and 10gpm of coolant through the intercooler system (assuming 5psi of headpressure from the resistance in the circuit).
They are listed in the order of flow, price, and ease of supply. Approximate prices are: Bosch $110, Davies Craig $180, Pierburg $230 (would need to be shipped from the EU)
Both the DC and Pierburg are brushless - so should last much longer. However, they are not commonly available, and so would be a bit of lead time for replacement if there was a failure. The Bosch pump is brushed, and would in theory be a service item (guessing its a nominal 5000hour motor life) but they are incredibly common and stocked at many major parts vendors.
All the above pumps use the 3/4" (19mm) hose fittings, and pull about the same current in the 5-7amp range.
Hello all, I have an Andy Keel setup and was wondering if anyone can tell me who produced this pulley? I’m wanting to play around with different sizes but can’t seem to locate the same type of “quick change” pulley so I can buy some more.
Hi, go to Kenne Bells web site, they still support the Auto Rotor Twin Screw as they worked together and ended up buying Auto Rotor and Improving on the Twin Screw design.
They service the units and sell the parts too.
Side Note:
My Twin Screw setup ran down and back to Frenzy in Va, w/o any issues,
The Spal pusher fan was the Key to getting airflow into the Rad in stop and go traffic, I'd never go above 190 deg F..
For now I have it switched and turn it off when moving steady over 25 mph,
I used about 1/2 quart of 20/50 oil on the entire trip (~1,100 miles), mostly out of the Provent, I still need to re-do my setup to larger piping and better routing as others here (Darren and Tony, Ed) have done.
Also my SC oil went from max to min level and had to top it off 1/2 way back.
Loved the 9.3 Boost on the Interstate, wow what a kick and the SC whine is intoxicating
Unrelated:
I could not get my Drivers and then Passenger window down for tolls 1/2 way there, I finally did but it was very spotty, turned out to be the Ignition Switch, but after beating up on the window switches, now they too need replacement
08-11-2018, 10:18 AM
