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The Twin Screw Thread

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Old 07-12-2017, 12:51 PM
  #2896  
davek9
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Originally Posted by Chris Lockhart
Excellent! Good luck Dave. I hope you get her fired up this weekend. Unfortunately my project is stalled for a few weeks at least. I have total knee replacement surgery tomorrow morning. :-( I still hope to be driving by the end of summer.
Thank you Chris for the encouragement, hoping all goes well with your surgery

You need to pickup an Auto/Roger Box for those recovery days or for driving in traffic

Dave
Old 07-12-2017, 02:40 PM
  #2897  
Chris Lockhart
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Originally Posted by davek9
Thank you Chris for the encouragement, hoping all goes well with your surgery

You need to pickup an Auto/Roger Box for those recovery days or for driving in traffic

Dave
Thanks Dave. Yeah the older I get the better that Roger Box is looking!! LOL.
Old 07-17-2017, 01:49 PM
  #2898  
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Well may not look it but a lot has been done, now awaiting for my son to come over tonight and assist me setting the SC down in place.

I decided to connect the Rear Inter-cooler hose as it seems to be holding pressure when I did a quick test. I can access that other parts of the cooler once she up and running (hopefully w/ out leaks

In re-reading the Vacuum line questions some seem to connect ALL but HVAC and Trans to the VAC & Boost ports???
Why would the EZH and the Stock FPR need to see Boost?

If anyone can address that it would be greatly appreciated.

My plan is to use the staged port on the TB (has port on both sides of the Throttle plate and is the stock connection for FPR, dampeners, Trans and EZH. the other three will be plugged on the TB.

Boost/VAC on the Intakes brass port will connect to the Gauge and ... maybe the EZH if needed there?

Thanks,

Dave
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Old 07-18-2017, 02:06 PM
  #2899  
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All bolted up, all small stuff from here (I hope
I added rubber washers to the top of the manifold bolts and torqued to 140in lbs and that seemed tight to me.

Still searching on Vacuum and what advantage does giving the FPR and EZF Boost pressure?

Thanks,

Dave
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Old 07-24-2017, 09:12 AM
  #2900  
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She's running, started and idles, have good vacuum (20) and makes Boost, still have things to button up, sounded great to hear it start and idle!!!
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Last edited by davek9; 07-24-2017 at 11:25 AM.
Old 07-24-2017, 12:07 PM
  #2901  
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Great looking install Dave!

Hope it makes it to Hell this year.
Old 07-25-2017, 03:24 PM
  #2902  
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Thanks Han's, I'm planning on it, and thank you again for your guidance and suggestions, the Anchor solid MM's were 11mm shorter and helped w/ over all clearance
I've also been looking at Ed Standke's Intake and other bits for the Andy Keel setup and have been in communication w/ him, he's been very helpful and has offered me support too!

Now Need to address the Throttle connection (going w/ an S4's) and get my Innovate digital AFR / Boost gauge installed and then tuner up!

Can anyone comment on what these stickers on my EZF exactly mean?

Is the 2 BAR MAP sensor for accepting Boost up to 20 PSI and adjusting the Retard?
WOT disabled.. dose that also mean Idle and cruse maps or just Wide Open Throttle?

Thank you,

Dave K
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Old 07-25-2017, 05:40 PM
  #2903  
John Speake
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The 2 Bar sensor I fitted to that ECU will enable mapping up to 14psi of boost using a Sharktuner.

The WOT switch is disabled because the WOT map is only mapped by rpm (i.e. does not take account of MAP sensor). So for a s/c car it would be dangerous to use the WOT map.

However the "cruise" map will be able to properly and safely map the car up to max boost.
Old 07-26-2017, 12:58 PM
  #2904  
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Thank you John now I feel even better about that EZF knowing you all worked on it

Thanks for the explanation, I'll be connecting it to the boost port on the Intake, I'm installing the AFR gauge tonight, then I can see whats what.

Hopefully Andrew O. can find some time soon to guide me w/ the Shark tuner
He has already offered to give it his technical eye

Thanks again,

Dave
Old 07-26-2017, 01:33 PM
  #2905  
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You may need the Sharktuner Software specifically for the 2 Bar MAP if you don't have it already.

I also have some setup instructions you may find useful.

If you think you will exceed about 450 HP at the flywheel, a SMAF will be needed.
Old 07-26-2017, 03:24 PM
  #2906  
PorKen
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Is the WOT input physically disabled internally/externally or via programming?

The S3 idle speed and CO setting mode (test plug B->C) is activated when both WOT and idle inputs are true at the same time.
Old 07-26-2017, 03:59 PM
  #2907  
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Internally.
Old 07-26-2017, 06:18 PM
  #2908  
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Please excuse my ignorance, does that mean I can still do the "standard" tuning per Ken's method of jumping pins?

I have the Wideband set up and gauge sitting on the fender, (I'm using a stock narrow band O2 for the LH and a separate wide band for tuning).

By adjusting the MAF and the TB mixture screw I've almost achieved almost a 14.7 at hot idle (it kind of bounces between 14.2 to ~15. goes into the 11's when bleeping the throttle.

Need to set up the PC and the Logworks software, this will give me RPM, AFR and Boost.

Thanks for the assistance John and Ken for chiming in, yes I'd like to make sure we have the latest Software for the Shark Tuner.
A Super MAF hey hummm, like the sound of that

Dave
Old 07-26-2017, 06:22 PM
  #2909  
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The CO/idle mode should work OK...since those are in the LH.

That said, during the B->C idle set mode, the EZF switches to the WOT map which doesn't have the ignition-advance-based-idle-control the idle map does. IE. below the target 680 rpm there is a big jump in spark advance to speed up the idle, less advance above to lower it - works much faster than the IAC.

If it were me, I would restore the EZF input (I imagine John just clipped the #12 pin at the ECU plug) and use the software switch in the Sharktuner software. I can send you a stock chip with it disabled as well.


(EZF x428 chip)

Last edited by PorKen; 07-26-2017 at 07:22 PM. Reason: idle vs wot maps
Old 07-26-2017, 06:49 PM
  #2910  
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Originally Posted by davek9
By adjusting the MAF and the TB mixture screw I've almost achieved almost a 14.7 at hot idle (it kind of bounces between 14.2 to ~15. goes into the 11's when bleeping the throttle.
Do you have the NBO2 disconnected or B->C connected?

Unlike the S4, which learns, the S3 has all these different maps for the O2 loop which vary the mixture up and down in timed patterns*. (Perhaps to load up the catalysts with more O2?) Bridge B->C to stop this.

It favors the low end, closer to 14.2 as I recall. I set it <14.5, but whatever you set it at, it will vary by the season, air temp/pressure etc.




*geek note - the stock function of the LH harness plugs (brown wires) is to switch one of these O2 loop maps to a different one


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