When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ken when I removed the SC and ECU's from another car I noticed that the ISV was disconnected however the car ran and idled w/o stalling.
I will add it was also using a Wide-band "PLEX" AFR unit and had the Analog output feeding the LH, I never could get a good AFR reading either.
As I'm not fan of doing the one O2 for both, I installed a new NBO2 and connected it per stock hookup.
When I reinstalled the SC system I reconnected the ISV and had the NBO2 connected, the engine started and had a weak idle, so I opened up the TB mix valve another 1/2 turn and the idle stabilized but in the AFR was in the 10's ! (no jumpers were used)
Wanting to see where the TB mix valve was I turned it in and found it was out 7.5 full turns!
I removed it, cleaned it sprayed some brake cleaner in the TB and reinstalled it 7 full turns out to get the engine back to an idle.
I then started turning the MAF setting to see if I could change the AFR, and I was able to get to the ~14.7 as shown.
OK, so now I'm thinking that the ISV is not working and, will first try the "standard" S3 tuning pin jumping method and start out at 1.5 turns on the TB and ~150 ohms on the MAF and see what happens ?
Before I do I'll measure the MAF as I'm now curious where it's currently at
I have a new ISV and a recently fresh rebuilt MAF I will also try if the above doesn't work out and start over
Thanks for the pics guys!! I think that I can mount a bracket to the fuel rail (I'm calling it "shroud"). See pic.... It's rigid enough and will make for a good mount location.
Hey Darien how's the conversion going?
I think your correct using the S3 Fuel Rail as a mounting point, it sure is sturdy enough to support the lever.
Right now this is the only thing keeping me from driving the car, working on it tonight when it's quiet time in the neighborhood and I can't do tuning
Update on the Idle Adjust on the TB at 7.5 turns and not between 1 to 2 where they should be.
I changed the MAF, no change (didn't think so but it was easy
Changed out the ISV w/ new and BINGO, Idles w/ TB Mix screw at 1.5 turns!
Now my AFR is at 11.5 with a MAF resistance set at 160 ohms, tried to lean it out but No Go, Shark Tune time, need to let it know those 30#'s are in town
Well it's drive-able now, still have work to do on my Throttle cable move and another bracket to make but it works Idle to full throttle and back
My Kick down switch and trans cable not non-functioning as yet however I only need to do a test drive and get some fuel in her before she starves
Went over to our groups storage/shop and picked up the Shark Tuner, the package box says it's a MK 1.5, it's a black box, not white.
I've yet to do any reading up as I've been too busy getting the car ready for the road. Anyway before actually doing any tuning want to connect up the new Heat exchanger when it arrives and put in the newer re-built MAF.
Well off to see if the car will move on it's own and hopefully be ready to make it to Sharks In Hell NEXT Weekend !!!
Great job Dave!! Sorry been busy with family visiting for past 3 weeks and haven't had time to do any tinkering in the garage. Shoot me a PM with you number and we can chat.
Auto-tune setting on the Shark tuner is the way to go for every day driving. But WOT tuning is not advised without a co-pilot!
Thank you Darien, I'm learning so much from you all that have been there and done it
Latest update: engine starts when cold and hot, idles smooth (AFR still around 10 to 11.5) yet to shark tune her, waiting on Intercooler Heat exchanger to arrive.
Have driven the car around town 20 miles or so, short trips, looking for leaks and any over heating.
She runs great given no tuning, really moves out
I installed a real temp gauge as the stock one seemed to be getting close to 3/4 line (this car always showed hotter than other S3's. New gauge shows actual temp to be 190 to 200 deg F (I think) that's completely normal temps, right?
Hopping I can drive her to HELL this coming weekend!!!
Thanks for the ongoing support, couldn't have done it w/o this group!!!
Dave, I've been following this from the shadows and must say this has turned out to be an outstanding install. Wish I was going to make to Hell to see her in person. Maybe next year. Good luck with the Shark Turning.
Thanks Brent great hearing that from you and hopefully you can "Go To Hell" next year
I've made some improvements on the Fresh air Intake, a bit better than the Flex tubing that was on the old car.
Now I need to cut a hole in that Fan shroud to actually get some Fresh Air in!
Thinking of a carbon Fiber Tube or plastic, that aluminum tube was 117 deg's after running around in 89 deg F heat yesterday.
I'm wanting to build something more like Carl's (928MS) air cleaner box atop the Rad.
Still awaiting the inter cooler heat exchanger to arrive so I can get it installed and start Shark tuning
DWV ABS is typically for irrigation or sewage applications for a home. The schedule 30 and 40 contributes to a larger outer diameter, and may be too big if you intend to have an intake pipe larger than 3" inner diameter.
Nothing wrong with using acrylic tubing and silicone couplers/bends.
Thanks guy's for the suggestions, that is 3.5" OD on there now, the MAF is 3.75" with a silicone reducer to 3.5, for anyone following along. I just notched the pipe to fit under the cross member, and blocked the hole with a couple of wraps of duct tape
Time to go shopping Home goods stores for plastic, main issues is finding a clean 90 like that with long ends, else it's like clamp city under there.
Its been a long time without an update. Lots has been going on quietly behind the scene. I ran into a major roadblock when the "throttle inlet" part I spent a considerable amount of time designing and refining was quoted at a price way to high to justify machining.
I have found a new machinist, and I am pleased to report that the single-piece inlet/throttle housing is a go. Every component on the inlet is custom and will be made with the best materials (except for the bearings and mounting hardware). Purpose designed shafts from 1144 steel, throttle blades from 2024, custom short 30mm offset lever arms, custom wound throttle springs...
The jackshaft configuration allows for symmetrical opening of both blades, and functions to further guide air at low throttle inputs for improved off-idle and low speed operation.
I am printing and testing the last iteration of this part so the official PO can go in next week for the housing, and all the custom ancillary components.
A small part, but one I was waiting on to finish the throttle inlet has been a custom weld-bung to adapt the TIAL QJR bypass valve to the fabricated lower plenum. This part came in this week, and it fits like a dream. Finish welding of the lower pans is moving forward, and shipping them over to Ed this week for his expert welding.
Crank pulleys should be out of the lathe next week, and I can do a complete mockup with real parts to measure the offset for the drive brackets, and and get them machined with the correct stand-off from the waterpump. I can also then put in the engineering request with HPS for the custom length drive extensions.
It may not seem exciting, but here are picture of the valve and v-band clamp for the lower assembly. Its a keystone to finalizing the Inlet drawing as I can verify the lower entry port of the valve.
that appears to be a diaphragm type bypass valve no?
i recall a lot of theory being thrown out without definitive answers before in this thread, but surely there's a reason ALL OEM-designed PD-blower cars come with a butterfly valve?
07-27-2017, 04:28 PM
