ErnestSw

After using a GTech Pro I'm somewhat skeptical. The issue is reproducability, not absolute accuracy. It's clear from Louie's post that significant dyno time (read $$$$$$$$$$$) will be necessary for tuning once the SharkTuner has the EZK module available.

IcemanG17

Ernest
I also use the Gtech Pro.....not the most consistant by any means, but better than nothing! Mine has varied all over the place (mostly depending on launch) from a low of 220hp to a high of 299hp (I wish)...with most inbetween 257-268hp It appears the steps are 246-257-268? At least at the weight I test mine, 3530lbs with a full tank + me 180lbs or 3710lbs?

Louie's idea is the optimal way to do it...but would take some serious time on a dyno...translated...big $$$$$, probably an all day affair...but worth it if you have a modified 928...especially an S/C

Louie928

Ernest,
That explanation was how you'd do it if tuning from beginning. The EZ-K already has a base map which will be close and won't require much tweaking. If you have a SC/turbo, you'll need more changes. The positive displacement SC is badly in need of help if it's up in the 7 psi or more area. The 5 psi ones seem to work ok within the built in conservative timing the factory set. Not that they couldn't be better optimized, they don't appear to cause trouble. The way the centrifugal SC builds boost, it isn't too bad either. Turbos are somewhere in between.

From a practical perspective with EZ-K timing adjustment possible, I'd put in 3 or 4 more degrees at idle and up to 1500 rpm because the engine runs smoother that way. Your NOX smog may be too high with that, but you could have that checked to evaluate. Then go on the dyno at the upper load ranges and see what you can do. It should take 2 hours max and that's not bad. There is some unusual map settings around the point where the flappy switches and you could probably check the 3200 to 3800 area for both fuel and timing to get that better. After all, if you spent big $ for a mod, a few hundred more to get it running properly isn't much. It should be factored in as part of the overall cost of the performance improvement. You'll see noticeable performance improvement with tuning from something as simple as an X pipe. Why stop halfway through?

You could leave mid range alone.

ErnestSw

Louie,
You're preaching to the choir, but a cheap choir (:-) Sounds like the dyno is the best AND cheapest in the long run.

928SS

not much different for strokers either... IIRC, it took about 10 dyno runs over the course of a week or so getting everything dialed in just using fuel pressure/ injector changes and changing chips around - and I'm sure theres still room for improvement.... if we'd had the shark tuner I think it actually would've been a bit easier/faster as we'd have more control over the AF at least instead of just working around stuff till we had a decent compromise... I suspect just doing the AF and flappy tuning will yield decent results, and when the EZK portion is available - we'll attain LH nirvana....

however, I also suspect that using a motec or other super tunable ECU would extract the most performance possible, but at a pretty big jump in cost... so IMO tuning our OEM stuff is probably the most cost effective/HP option.... hail mr. speake!!

sharkmeister85

DR,
I see the purchase price is posted now at $1,700 on your website. Have you set the pricing for rentals or your tuning service yet?
Glenn

DR

Hi Glenn,

Not yet. I have way too many irons in the fire. I will have the pricing set by the time John is ready to start shipping more. I do promise I will make it as cost effective as possible.

sharkmeister85

Thanks, Dave. Of course, I'll have to wait longer anyhow,until its available for the earlier LH version.
Glenn