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Discouraged 928er! Update

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Old 11-11-2005, 02:45 PM
  #31  
swoop
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Thanks for all of your input guys. I am on my way over to the shop now so that they can have a closer look with my direction.

Unrelated: Hi Patrick, not sure if swoop is the short for swaroop? I have always used it as a handle ever since I was a kid. Curious, what does swaroop mean?

Regards.

Trev
1980 928 Auto

Trev
1980 928 Auto
Old 11-11-2005, 07:01 PM
  #32  
928FIXER
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First...find a new wrench.One that can properly tell where a leak is coming from and/or use a dye kit to trace the leak,but be prepared to pay for this knowledge,training and equipment.Now...the leak is probably coming from the "o" ring that seals the cam cover to the front housing holding the dist.
Old 11-11-2005, 08:33 PM
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I agree with nick -- clean it up and check again. Also, the head gasket is BELOW the exhaust manifold, FWIW.
Old 11-12-2005, 04:20 PM
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karl ruiter
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Absolutly no way is it the head gasket. Unless for some reason the oil had decided to drip up. So, if you have no been hanging your car upside down recently there are three primary suspects: The cam tower gasket, the cam seal, and (I am pretty sure) the cam tower has a front cap that fastens to the body of the cam tower and there is a paper gasket between them. It's been a while, so I could be wrong about that last. The cam tower gasket would be my main suspect since pressureized oil is sent through a passage between the head and the cam tower, and I think I remember that the passage is in the region where you leak is. On the other hand it looks a little oily higher up too, so that could point to the cam seal. In any case none of this requires the engine to be pulled, but all of them will require a new mechanic. Seriously, even if you think yourself totally unskilled, you would probably be better off doing it yourself the dealing with this mechanic.
Old 11-12-2005, 04:45 PM
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UKKid35
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It seems obvious to me that you're prepared to make an effort to solve this problem simply because you've posted that pic. As Karl says you're also likely to do as good a job as any mechanic if you sort this out yourself, with the help of the guys on Rennlist.

It will take you longer than a pro, possibly several times longer, but if you have the time to devote to this job you will quickly gain the confidence to tackle other more expensive issues (cam belt change is a good example) and after you will wonder why you ever considered trusting the work to someone else.
Old 11-12-2005, 05:39 PM
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Paul, this job will involve a cambelt R&R anyway...
Old 11-13-2005, 02:30 AM
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UKKid35
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Originally Posted by SharkSkin
Paul, this job will involve a cambelt R&R anyway...
Sorry, not familiar with the 16v engines, I was imagining replacing the circular covers at the end of the camshafts. Awkward, but not engine out or cam belt related.
Old 11-13-2005, 01:39 PM
  #38  
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Yeah, understood. Fortunately the belt is easier to R&R on the 16v cars. In fact, swoop, you can pull off the driver side TB cover and have a look without having to disturb much of anything else -- takes maybe 5 minutes and you can almost see the cam seal at that point. As mentioned above, clean & check. Fortunately you can run your engine without that cover, unlike the 32v cars.
Old 11-13-2005, 06:08 PM
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swoop
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Hi all,
I had the car looked at by the mech. and he is going to dig back to the cam seals to confirm what I suspect and change out any other seals/gaskets he may come across. I would have liked to have tackled this myself as many of you have suggested, however I just don't have the time presently to work on it. So, unfortunately, I will have to pay.

For the life of me, I don't understand why mechanics refuse to diagnose an oil leak by simply cleaning the area and have the engine run while watching it as I did. It seems to me like it is an ego thing? The sales guy actually said he knows "it's the head gaket by not even looking at the car as he remembers seeing it earlier when the car was spring serviced." My question is... I never had an oil leak this bad before, so how the heck can you diagnose a leak without investigation?

They are going to charge me $1500 Cnd (the price they charge for the Timing Belt job)
to have the cam seals/dist. seal and anything else they come across while in there fixed. I believe this price to be on par with the rates that I have seen posted here.

I agree with everyone though. I think it might be time for me to hunt around for another 928 Mech. to work on the major stuff. I have always thought I was being charged fairly, however, I now question there diagnosis methods.

Man! I wish I had more time to try my hand at doing my own work.

Regards.

Trev
1980 928 Auto
Old 11-14-2005, 02:02 AM
  #40  
jpitman2
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And this guy who cant diagnose the leak properly is going to fix it? mmmmmmmmm (worried noise) Are you getting the belt done at same time? More worried noises....

jp 83 Euro S AT 49k.
Old 11-14-2005, 02:15 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by jpitman2
Are you getting the belt done at same time? More worried noises....

jp 83 Euro S AT 49k.
...at least it's non-interference...
Old 11-14-2005, 03:10 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by FlyingDog
...at least it's non-interference...
Small comfort if it "non-interferes" 100 miles from anywhere...
Old 11-14-2005, 12:13 PM
  #43  
Bill 86.5 928s
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You Guys are right on the money.....Swoop, if the mech is tearing down the engine to replace the seals you should get the timing belt, water pump and associated pieces rebuilt or replaced as well. There is nothing better than peace of mind knowing that those known issues have been dealt with. The records you generate now will also help you when it comes to resale. I had my 928 oil leaks attended to when I had the belt replaced. I too had problems and they were cam seal related. Good-luck with the 928. ..................Bill
Old 11-14-2005, 05:41 PM
  #44  
hupp
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Swoop,

Ensure that the mechanic inspects the camshaft sleeves that that interface with the cam seals. It would be a shame to install new seals without insuring the sealing surface on the sleeve is ok. Could start leaking again real soon otherwise.
Old 11-14-2005, 08:23 PM
  #45  
docmirror
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Why are you paying him to do training on your car? Run. Find new mechanic. Don't pay anyone to work on something that they don't know how to fix beforehand. If you want to let him work on it, work out a payment schedule that takes into account his lack of knowledge and experience for this marque.

$1500 is a fair price to let a pro work on it. If he want's that much to learn on your car, it's a rip off. He probably won't agree, then you're ahead on the project.

Doc


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