Intercooling idea?
11-01-2005, 03:19 PM
#31
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Friend of mine ran an Evo 7 (Mitsu) in a hillclimb using just a water-to-air IC...above 85% eff. for the whole run. It's all in the size of the heat exchanger in the front...
11-01-2005, 03:26 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by Tony
Problem is , detonation can already be occuring BEFORE it gets to an audible level. Audible detonation is on the extreme end of the spectrum.
Be careful. Chuck on a simple small I/C just for some margin.
Be careful. Chuck on a simple small I/C just for some margin.
Tony,
I know what you mean and appreciate the info.
I'm still hunting for an IC, but as of yet no OEM will fit. Majority of the OEM IC inlets are 2" or less. The ones that are 2.5” and more are for the large displacement diesel engines (pickups). The frontal area on them is huge and will not fit in front of the 928s radiator. I think Iwill have to result to buying an aftermarket IC. Ebay has plenty on them, but to keep with the home built “theme” I still rather use a factory part. Unless someone has a used intercooler with a 2.5” inlet/outlet for sale.
11-01-2005, 03:28 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by BrendanC
OKay Tom. You got me. Without all the heaping holes in the front of big bird, a normal S4 or 2V 928 has very little space for a proper Air to Air without sacrificing the all important area for regular radiator and oil cooler stuff. I've been staring at the front of my 78 for a while now.
you do have a sawzall dont you?
11-01-2005, 04:00 PM
#34
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I have installed the a/c system in my car that you are talking about. I still have my rear a/c as well. I used a rear a/c core and solinoid that I got from Mark @ 928Intl. I removed the a/c lines when I had the engine out and had fittings spliced into the large main lines at the base of the firewall. I made a new windsheild tank out of stainless steal and the cooler core is suspended in the tank of water. The switch on the dash allows me to turn it on and off at will as well as the pump for the water. On the street I see temps below ambient by 10-15 degrees. On the track it causes the car to overheat (a/c on all the time) so I use a electric diverter valve to go through a honda goldwing radiator in the front of the car to cool instead.
11-01-2005, 04:23 PM
#35
Originally Posted by shaaark89
i did say it wasn't for the faint of heart
you do have a sawzall dont you?
you do have a sawzall dont you?
11-02-2005, 10:53 AM
#36
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I like!
Originally Posted by Blown Beast
I have installed the a/c system in my car that you are talking about. I still have my rear a/c as well. I used a rear a/c core and solinoid that I got from Mark @ 928Intl. I removed the a/c lines when I had the engine out and had fittings spliced into the large main lines at the base of the firewall. I made a new windsheild tank out of stainless steal and the cooler core is suspended in the tank of water. The switch on the dash allows me to turn it on and off at will as well as the pump for the water. On the street I see temps below ambient by 10-15 degrees. On the track it causes the car to overheat (a/c on all the time) so I use a electric diverter valve to go through a honda goldwing radiator in the front of the car to cool instead.
