Fuel Tank Repair
#1
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Has anyone tried to repair a early 928 fuel tank that has a hole in it? Something in the road hit the tank and tore a small hole in it.
#2
They Smashed My Truck!
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I had the same problem with my 81' I used a 2 part epoxy on it. The kind that comes in a dual caulking tube. first sand the area around the hole, clean with alcohol or mineral spirits, apply epoxy in a thin layer,then I used a small piece of plastic slightly larger than the hole,set that in place and then covered the entire patch with the epoxy. You want to be sure that you let the epoxy fully cure. (about 2-3 days) and it helps to remove the tank first. Also check the epoxy that you are using for compatability. I will get the brand that I used tommorrow when I go to my shop. This worked great for me and hasn't leaked so far in 4 months.
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a4
The approved repair method is to remove the tank, flush with water and weld the hole, But there is a shortcut.
Never done a 928 this way but I have twice repaired stone holes on other tanks in-situ using a two-part 'steel epoxy putty'. It's called Pratleys where I come from. You probably have an equivalent.
It's important that the hole is not weeping fuel before starting. If it is, drain or syphon the tank as much as possible then jack up one side of the car so that the residual fuel runs away from the leak point. On one occasion when I couldn't do this I stopped the leak first with a small self-tapping screw. Clean an area of about 2" diameter to bare metal around the hole then apply the putty pressing it hard onto the metal surface leaving a 'mound' about 5mm high at the centre. When hard, test fill the tank and coat the repair and any uncovered bare metal with underbody sealer. The first repair I did this way is still sound after 6 years.
Colin. 89GT
The approved repair method is to remove the tank, flush with water and weld the hole, But there is a shortcut.
Never done a 928 this way but I have twice repaired stone holes on other tanks in-situ using a two-part 'steel epoxy putty'. It's called Pratleys where I come from. You probably have an equivalent.
It's important that the hole is not weeping fuel before starting. If it is, drain or syphon the tank as much as possible then jack up one side of the car so that the residual fuel runs away from the leak point. On one occasion when I couldn't do this I stopped the leak first with a small self-tapping screw. Clean an area of about 2" diameter to bare metal around the hole then apply the putty pressing it hard onto the metal surface leaving a 'mound' about 5mm high at the centre. When hard, test fill the tank and coat the repair and any uncovered bare metal with underbody sealer. The first repair I did this way is still sound after 6 years.
Colin. 89GT
#4
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Originally Posted by ColinB
a4
The approved repair method is to remove the tank, flush with water and weld the hole, But there is a shortcut.
Never done a 928 this way but I have twice repaired stone holes on other tanks in-situ using a two-part 'steel epoxy putty'. It's called Pratleys where I come from. You probably have an equivalent.
It's important that the hole is not weeping fuel before starting. If it is, drain or syphon the tank as much as possible then jack up one side of the car so that the residual fuel runs away from the leak point. On one occasion when I couldn't do this I stopped the leak first with a small self-tapping screw. Clean an area of about 2" diameter to bare metal around the hole then apply the putty pressing it hard onto the metal surface leaving a 'mound' about 5mm high at the centre. When hard, test fill the tank and coat the repair and any uncovered bare metal with underbody sealer. The first repair I did this way is still sound after 6 years.
Colin. 89GT
The approved repair method is to remove the tank, flush with water and weld the hole, But there is a shortcut.
Never done a 928 this way but I have twice repaired stone holes on other tanks in-situ using a two-part 'steel epoxy putty'. It's called Pratleys where I come from. You probably have an equivalent.
It's important that the hole is not weeping fuel before starting. If it is, drain or syphon the tank as much as possible then jack up one side of the car so that the residual fuel runs away from the leak point. On one occasion when I couldn't do this I stopped the leak first with a small self-tapping screw. Clean an area of about 2" diameter to bare metal around the hole then apply the putty pressing it hard onto the metal surface leaving a 'mound' about 5mm high at the centre. When hard, test fill the tank and coat the repair and any uncovered bare metal with underbody sealer. The first repair I did this way is still sound after 6 years.
Colin. 89GT
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What year? I have a tank from an 86 that is collecting dust. It had imploded because the return air line was clogged. I replaced it and set it in the sun for a few hours, it popped back into shape and seems to be fine.
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Originally Posted by ColinB
a4
The approved repair method is to remove the tank, flush with water and weld the hole, But there is a shortcut.
Never done a 928 this way but I have twice repaired stone holes on other tanks in-situ using a two-part 'steel epoxy putty'. It's called Pratleys where I come from. You probably have an equivalent.
It's important that the hole is not weeping fuel before starting. If it is, drain or syphon the tank as much as possible then jack up one side of the car so that the residual fuel runs away from the leak point. On one occasion when I couldn't do this I stopped the leak first with a small self-tapping screw. Clean an area of about 2" diameter to bare metal around the hole then apply the putty pressing it hard onto the metal surface leaving a 'mound' about 5mm high at the centre. When hard, test fill the tank and coat the repair and any uncovered bare metal with underbody sealer. The first repair I did this way is still sound after 6 years.
Colin. 89GT
The approved repair method is to remove the tank, flush with water and weld the hole, But there is a shortcut.
Never done a 928 this way but I have twice repaired stone holes on other tanks in-situ using a two-part 'steel epoxy putty'. It's called Pratleys where I come from. You probably have an equivalent.
It's important that the hole is not weeping fuel before starting. If it is, drain or syphon the tank as much as possible then jack up one side of the car so that the residual fuel runs away from the leak point. On one occasion when I couldn't do this I stopped the leak first with a small self-tapping screw. Clean an area of about 2" diameter to bare metal around the hole then apply the putty pressing it hard onto the metal surface leaving a 'mound' about 5mm high at the centre. When hard, test fill the tank and coat the repair and any uncovered bare metal with underbody sealer. The first repair I did this way is still sound after 6 years.
Colin. 89GT
Colin, do you have the metal tank option on your 928?
Cheers,
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Some plastics can be welded.
Make sure the epoxy you use is fuel proof (none are fool proof). I used JB Kwik Weld on a fuel fitting on another car to get home. It was leaking fuel, weak and brttle when I took it apart for the final fix.
Make sure the epoxy you use is fuel proof (none are fool proof). I used JB Kwik Weld on a fuel fitting on another car to get home. It was leaking fuel, weak and brttle when I took it apart for the final fix.
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Umm, well, OK. Plastic it is. Point conceded. The repair method I suggested has not been tested on a plastic petrol tank.
Is my **** covered now or should a4 buy a new tank?
Colin. 89GT
Is my **** covered now or should a4 buy a new tank?
Colin. 89GT