Shark has FINALLY left the shop .. now it's overheating!
10-30-2005, 05:54 PM
#16
Drifting
A number of euros run lean and the ONLY way to cure that is with RRFPR's. I confirmed this with time on the dyno. Others here with euro's had the same experience including DR who sold me the RRFPR's and told me it was the only way he was able to cure his lean condition. Being an open loop system the brain has no way of knowing the A/F ratio.
The mechanical fan has a known defect with the sealing of the oil used in its clutch assembly. Pirtle or nichols site talks about it and the toyota fluid used to temporarily solve the problem. Major PITA! Porsche dropped the mechanical fan in favor of electric, i suggest you do the same. The euro's were designed for europe and the autobahn and probably not crawling along NYC streets where airflow is questionable.
The mechanical fan has a known defect with the sealing of the oil used in its clutch assembly. Pirtle or nichols site talks about it and the toyota fluid used to temporarily solve the problem. Major PITA! Porsche dropped the mechanical fan in favor of electric, i suggest you do the same. The euro's were designed for europe and the autobahn and probably not crawling along NYC streets where airflow is questionable.
10-31-2005, 05:45 AM
#17
Under the Lift
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Somebody correct me, but, assuming no air lock, the heater core should still get hot even with a stuck t-stat. It appears that there is no flow going anywhere in this case. I suspect a failed water pump rather than t-stat.
10-31-2005, 12:10 PM
#18
Captain Obvious
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Somebody correct me, but, assuming no air lock, the heater core should still get hot even with a stuck t-stat. It appears that there is no flow going anywhere in this case. I suspect a failed water pump rather than t-stat.
When in my wife's car the WP impeller broke apart (Contours are known to have defective OEM WPs) the heater core was cold but the engine was overheating. Sounds like, either the water pump is not circulating or the coolant level is soo low that the WP impellers are above it.
10-31-2005, 12:45 PM
#19
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Water Pump
I believe that your water pump has failed. My 84 did the same thing. The impeller
broke free from the shaft.
The very first time it started to overheat, I immediately quit driving it and had it repaired (along with a "WYIT" new TB and new front cam seals). The radiator was
flushed and the clutch fan was replaced too.
That was 10 miles ago.
Now, it's for sale (cheap!) It's just time for me to get my garage down to less
perfectly fine, driveable vehicles and move on with more projects!
--Evil Patrick
79
82 (in pieces)
84 (for sale, cheap! make offer!)
broke free from the shaft.
The very first time it started to overheat, I immediately quit driving it and had it repaired (along with a "WYIT" new TB and new front cam seals). The radiator was
flushed and the clutch fan was replaced too.
That was 10 miles ago.
Now, it's for sale (cheap!) It's just time for me to get my garage down to less
perfectly fine, driveable vehicles and move on with more projects!
--Evil Patrick
79
82 (in pieces)
84 (for sale, cheap! make offer!)
10-31-2005, 01:27 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Somebody correct me, but, assuming no air lock, the heater core should still get hot even with a stuck t-stat. It appears that there is no flow going anywhere in this case. I suspect a failed water pump rather than t-stat.
10-31-2005, 02:08 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by SharkSkin
considering the work that was done IMHO it could just as easily be the vac line to the valve was knocked loose.
11-07-2005, 06:49 PM
#23
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Heh .. as much as I hate to admit it, I think you hit the nail on the head. Im in the process of getting the radiator flushed/cleaned and a new thermostat added.
I believe i'll have the same problem ...
Mechanic will give me the word tomorrow.
*gulp*
I believe i'll have the same problem ...
Mechanic will give me the word tomorrow.
*gulp*
Originally Posted by Evil Patrick
I believe that your water pump has failed. My 84 did the same thing. The impeller
broke free from the shaft.
The very first time it started to overheat, I immediately quit driving it and had it repaired (along with a "WYIT" new TB and new front cam seals). The radiator was
flushed and the clutch fan was replaced too.
That was 10 miles ago.
Now, it's for sale (cheap!) It's just time for me to get my garage down to less
perfectly fine, driveable vehicles and move on with more projects!
--Evil Patrick
79
82 (in pieces)
84 (for sale, cheap! make offer!)
broke free from the shaft.
The very first time it started to overheat, I immediately quit driving it and had it repaired (along with a "WYIT" new TB and new front cam seals). The radiator was
flushed and the clutch fan was replaced too.
That was 10 miles ago.
Now, it's for sale (cheap!) It's just time for me to get my garage down to less
perfectly fine, driveable vehicles and move on with more projects!
--Evil Patrick
79
82 (in pieces)
84 (for sale, cheap! make offer!)
