Oldtee

I decided to return the 85S to spec (or reasonably close) but to be frank have no idea where the meansurments are supposed to take place under the car. Why can't the wheel well work just as well. It works on a 911 (if I haven't comitted a sin by sugesting it). The specs I pulled off Nichols site are 27" front and 24.5" rear, but that was from a 87 and may not be right for a 85. Is it?

I am starting with LF 24 3/4", RF 25 1/4" and rears 23 3/4". That is 2 1/4" (LF) to go and it seems a lot. Any suggestions?

John Struthers

I am not buying those measurements even if you are measuring at the wheelwells.
Particularly, the huge difference between l/f and r/f.
If someone doesn't post the ride heigth measurements and the location, check the archives for posts' with links which should give you a pictoral.
Keep in mind that those measurements were with stock oem tires/wheels, a suspension guru or experienced BTDT type will have to advise you -some debate here- on wether keeping to the suggested ride heigth after switching to taller/wider wheel combo's will affect the camber/toe adversely or not.
Have you applied a dose of WD-40 to the adjuster nuts/collar rings yet?

ErnestSw

You should have accepted the $500.00 I offered you at SITM!!
But seriously folks, unless you know what to look for it's hard to find the measuring points. I suggest you lie under your car with it on ramps and look just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels (IIRC). You'll find a round, machined flat area about a half inch square on the bottom of the suspension mounts. I found the Nichols site unhelpful even with pictures.
Measuring at the wheel arches is really not accurate UNLESS you have a proper measurement and can refer the wheel arch height to it.

Oldtee

$500 Hurrumph! Anyway, yes I did the WD40 squirt. I see the pads. So this is what is meant by "small flat machined area on the bottom of the cast bracket that holds the rear of the lower control arm, between the ribs."?

Now decipher the rear "flat machined area on the aft bottom of the large u-shaped bracket that holds the lower transverse control link...."?

Why is Porsche life so difficult?

ErnestSw

Like I said,
Put the front of your car up on ramps and lie down under it (on your back) and contemplete the suspension, grasshopper. Eventually, you will find those round, flat, horizontal, half inch square (or less) surfaces. The "small flat machined area on the bottom of the cast bracket that holds the rear of the lower control arm, between the ribs" and the "flat machined area on the aft bottom of the large u-shaped bracket that holds the lower transverse control link" are Porsche code words for "You haven't got a snowball's chance in hell of finding these points unless someone points them out to you".

GlenL

Once you're under the car the points are clear. Make sure you're on level ground. Fender measurements are going to be inaccurate. To help with the work cut two sticks to the heights you want. Easy to stick them in and see if you're low or high.

m21sniper

Someone please illuminate me....why are the fenders innacurate?

ErnestSw

The fenders' relationship to the ride height can vary depending on bushing wear and spring sag. IF you know your ride height is 175mm AND you know your fender height is 27", for instance, THEN you can use fnder height to do a rough measurement of ride height, but the relationship between the two is not constant.

Randy V

Check the 'New Visitor...FAQ' topic.

There's a link to a nice write-up by 938 UK (with pichurs) on the procedure.

Welcome to the forum.

m21sniper

Thanx Ernest.

SharkSkin

Check the tech specs for height specification on your MY shark. Measure between flat, level ground and the points indicated by the black arrows in the attached pics.

Oldtee

Shark Skin, Very good response.

Thanx

GlenL

The front fenders are very light and thin. I compared my lefts and rights off the car they're noticably different side-by-side. When mounting them they bend easily while aligning the bolt holes and shifting them to match the hood. My questimate is that you could have 1/4" or 1/2" difference at the fender (worst case) between sides when the machined spots on the suspension are equal. Extra points for high-milage cars or those that have been pranged.

The rears suffer from manufacturing differences. Likely less difference back there.

John Struthers

Oldtee,
You aren't getting off that light!
Have consulted with the Roman Catholic Hierarchy:
1. Mere mention of the AIR-COOLED cockroach shaped German go-carts on a 928 -you will kindly note the '928' moniker- Forum is a Mortal Sin with no officially recognized penance.
"Good chance we have a lost soul here" states Vatican spokes person, Father O'Bannion after a 3 hour sit down at the Holy See.
2. O'Bannion further stated that; " due to the maintenance cross-reference, there was no chance of even a Deathbed Absolution, he's a goner fer shure" So, for what it's worth, you might as well start pillagein', plunderin', and rapin' for there's no savin you now, lad !
As for you Ernest ... you offered this pagan $500.00?
A little over the top I'd say.
Especially, if you had prior knowledge of his association with 'those OTHER Porsche People'.
Acceptable trades you should have considered :
1. A small sack of Eisenhower halfs.'
2. That old Kodak Brownie Hawkeye -flash model- with the broken hand strap.
3. That dumptruck full of Pogs you were hoping to make a windfall on.
My God, Ern!
Where's the old cut-throat Pirate Spirit?
Time to splash a bit of Rum in a glass and get a little of the Captain in ya'.

Scott M.

John;

Sorry I haven't got back to you sooner. I'll be finished with the black cherry car today, so my lift will have a few days free. Lets do the motor mounts and whatever else we can get into in an afternoons time. I can also give you the low downs on alighments.

Call me at my office.

Scott