Carl Fausett is a GENIUS!! Replaced clutch master in 30 minutes! (Pics added)
08-30-2005, 03:56 PM
#1
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Carl Fausett is a GENIUS!! Replaced clutch master in 30 minutes! (Pics added)
Thanks for the fantastic idea! I cut an opening in the inside of the fender with a Dremel. The opening took me 45 minutes since I started small and worked my way out as I saw where the master cylinder was. Once it was open, 30 minutes later I have the master cylinder replaced and it was a one-man job.
Carl has a riveter, a toy I don't have access to, so to cover the opening and keep it as close to original looking as possible (even though nobody can see it) I drilled 4 holes around the edges of the opening for speednuts. Next, I took a sheet of aluminum and cut it to shape, bent the edges over to keep from cutting my hands off, molded it to cover the hole and drilled holes to correspond with the ones in the opening. I put a 1/4" bead of gasket seal material around the edge of the hole and allowed it to dry. Screw down the cover and I have a water tight, removable cover.
I'll post pics of the opening for reference when I get them off the camera.
The clutch master cylinder is no longer a problem to work with!!!
Carl has a riveter, a toy I don't have access to, so to cover the opening and keep it as close to original looking as possible (even though nobody can see it) I drilled 4 holes around the edges of the opening for speednuts. Next, I took a sheet of aluminum and cut it to shape, bent the edges over to keep from cutting my hands off, molded it to cover the hole and drilled holes to correspond with the ones in the opening. I put a 1/4" bead of gasket seal material around the edge of the hole and allowed it to dry. Screw down the cover and I have a water tight, removable cover.
I'll post pics of the opening for reference when I get them off the camera.
The clutch master cylinder is no longer a problem to work with!!!
Last edited by deliriousga; 08-31-2005 at 11:46 AM.
08-30-2005, 04:10 PM
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We have seen numerous cars with "magic windows" or inspection panels added for just that purpose. But Carl is a bright creative guy ...
08-30-2005, 04:13 PM
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That's called cheating....but, damn, what a great idea! I've heard of this being done on certain Ford trucks just to change spark plugs. Didn't really consider it for our clutch master cylinder though. Good job!
Rich
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08-30-2005, 05:29 PM
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and as an added bonus, your shark is lighter!!!!! thus FASTER.......I guess that is why he is called "Quick" Carl......
08-30-2005, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
The big question is does your clutch work now? Was it the clutch MC that was the bane of your troubles?
Originally Posted by Gretch
and as an added bonus, your shark is lighter!!!!! thus FASTER.......I guess that is why he is called "Quick" Carl......
08-30-2005, 06:22 PM
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great idea. I need to do mine soon. (i think) pedal gets soft and doesnt come all the way back up , plus its really squeekie. slave was replaced and clutch still works well, but pedal has to be pumped to work properly even during races.
Lets see those pictures!
MK
Lets see those pictures!
MK
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08-30-2005, 06:30 PM
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This doesn't apply to me, yet, but...
Does the fender have to come off?
Could you get a 90° drill in there with a hole saw? Then you could use a plug/cover, eg. a gas tank inspection or floorpan plug, and make it look somewhat factory. Template or measurements to center hole? Minimum hole size required?
Does the fender have to come off?
Could you get a 90° drill in there with a hole saw? Then you could use a plug/cover, eg. a gas tank inspection or floorpan plug, and make it look somewhat factory. Template or measurements to center hole? Minimum hole size required?
08-30-2005, 07:09 PM
#10
Why not rebuild the unit with the cylinder in place?
I used the method where you:
1) Feed a sturdy nylon/cotton rope through the bolt holes in the firewall
2) Feed the rope through the holes in the slave
3) Tie knots in the rope on the non-mating surfaces of the clutch cylinder
4) Pull into place and bolt in
Using this method, I was able to ge the procedure down to 45-60 mins.
Not too shabby.
I used the method where you:
1) Feed a sturdy nylon/cotton rope through the bolt holes in the firewall
2) Feed the rope through the holes in the slave
3) Tie knots in the rope on the non-mating surfaces of the clutch cylinder
4) Pull into place and bolt in
Using this method, I was able to ge the procedure down to 45-60 mins.
Not too shabby.
08-30-2005, 08:37 PM
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I'm pretty sure John did this, but for some reason it didn't solve his problems. Hence the entire replacement.
-Andrew
-Andrew
Originally Posted by Scott C
Why not rebuild the unit with the cylinder in place?
I used the method where you:
1) Feed a sturdy nylon/cotton rope through the bolt holes in the firewall
2) Feed the rope through the holes in the slave
3) Tie knots in the rope on the non-mating surfaces of the clutch cylinder
4) Pull into place and bolt in
Using this method, I was able to ge the procedure down to 45-60 mins.
Not too shabby.
I used the method where you:
1) Feed a sturdy nylon/cotton rope through the bolt holes in the firewall
2) Feed the rope through the holes in the slave
3) Tie knots in the rope on the non-mating surfaces of the clutch cylinder
4) Pull into place and bolt in
Using this method, I was able to ge the procedure down to 45-60 mins.
Not too shabby.
08-31-2005, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott C
Why not rebuild the unit with the cylinder in place?
I used the method where you:
1) Feed a sturdy nylon/cotton rope through the bolt holes in the firewall
2) Feed the rope through the holes in the slave
3) Tie knots in the rope on the non-mating surfaces of the clutch cylinder
4) Pull into place and bolt in
Using this method, I was able to ge the procedure down to 45-60 mins.
Not too shabby.
I used the method where you:
1) Feed a sturdy nylon/cotton rope through the bolt holes in the firewall
2) Feed the rope through the holes in the slave
3) Tie knots in the rope on the non-mating surfaces of the clutch cylinder
4) Pull into place and bolt in
Using this method, I was able to ge the procedure down to 45-60 mins.
Not too shabby.
I did everything you could do before replacing the MC because everyone said it was one of the biggest PITA jobs. Wasted tons of hours trying to get it done easier and cheaper and had no shark for over a month. I also got brake fluid in the foam around the clutch pedal so now it stinks and I have to find something to replace that foam. Next time I'll just replace the thing for $55 more than repairing in 30 minutes of time and save 20 hours of frustration.
08-31-2005, 11:41 AM
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Pictures of the Clutch MC replacement window.
Here are the before and after pics of the opening I cut to be able to easily access the clutch master cylinder (and brake booster underside). Sorry, I don't have pictures of the cover, but I'll take some the next time I pull the fender cover off. Please pardon the ugly build-up in the wheel well. That will be taken care of once I have her mechanically sound (within the next year )
If you cut the opening, be extremely careful and start small. The booster lines are laying against the fender wall. If you cut a small hole first on toward the bottom you can then move the booster lines so they're not up against the wall while you cut the rest. Also be careful not to cut your fingers off on the sheet metal.
Hope it helps!
)If you cut the opening, be extremely careful and start small. The booster lines are laying against the fender wall. If you cut a small hole first on toward the bottom you can then move the booster lines so they're not up against the wall while you cut the rest. Also be careful not to cut your fingers off on the sheet metal.
Hope it helps!
