Yes and No.

I'm determined to get my ABS working first. Joel came round an hour ago to try my ABS relay in his car, which worked fine. So that just leaves one sensor left for me to swap out, and if that doesn't work I really will be disappointed. In this weather ABS is more important that motor mounts.

 

Dave,

I figured on 8-10 hours for mine and it took me a few more than that. I just did it about 6 weeks ago and the Anchor mounts work fine, but allow yourself a few more hours for surprises. I also second what everyone else says about the 10mm gearwrench. The pan would take forever without it.

 

I have changed from the Anchor Mounts to the Corteco brand.
Purchasing the Anchor Mounts is a crap shoot on what you might receive as there are a number of versions - hyd/solid - made in India/China - location studs v no studs and on and on.
Nothing wrong with Anchor once you get the right combination. Getting there is a pain.

Corteco are far more uniform in what they supply. You order solid you get solid.
I only use solid MM and we have plenty of cars here in DFW to prove there success.
It helps to have an account with Corteco and I sell them locally for $30each with hardware ($60/pair)

Jim Mayzurk and I have been dissecting MM to see the internal makeup of Solid V Hydraulic.
We think we know the difference but wanted to prove it once and for all.
Chopped a new solid and hydraulic in half and will post pictures in a few days.
The fluid is definitely water (dirty at that) in the hydraulic mount.

 

Good info Rog...keep truckin'

Harvey

 

Roger AKA "Mister MM" has done many...
If you want to do the job right, change the oil pan gasket, don't forget the basicv WYAIT rule.

 

Funny, I didn't have too much trouble getting the upper crossmember bolts in. IIRC we just put a couple of the shorter bolts in to keep the crossmember from falling on our heads then used a tapered round bar to line up the holes. One factor in our favor IMHO is that I had pulled the engine up as much as I could on the old mounts, so that the new(taller) mounts weren't in the way of getting the crossmember positioned.

 

Dave: You said "we". If you have helper, lining up the upper bolts with that brace is relatively easy. Working alone, it's a challenge.

 

Bill, it was me. That created a challenge in itself.

 

I'm not sure there was really a "problem" getting the upper bolts back in. The crossmember just needed to be moved a bit. As Dave points out, a tapered punch is the weapon of choice for getting the parts aligned. I did mine solo with no problems. When we did Rob Edwards' mounts (two of us under the car, one putting the bolts in...) I had the punch on one side and managed to get the bolts in just a fraction but enough to allow the bolt to draw in when it was 'tightened' with the ratchet. Once it was in a few threads it was OK to tap it in with a small hammer until it reached the othere side, then thread a little/tap a little and it was in.

The idea of jacking one side of the motor may work with the Mercedes, but would be a real strain on the torque tube and the rear mounts if tried with the 928. With the weight of the engine hanging from one corner, and the torque transferred all the way to the trans mounts in the rear, which part is going to flex enough to allow you the few inches of room needed on one side to swap the mount. You'd need to get the mount saddle up at least a couple inches to get the lower stud to clear. Might be relatively easy to get the old mount out collapsed, but you are adding another inch to the assembly with the new mounts hopefully. I'm not quite willing to go searching for the weakest link in that twisting effort.

Of course, it might work perfectly and save others many hours when changing mounts. Probably won't happen on my watch though.

 

Bill, the process was so easy that I'm not sure how different it would have been without Ron's help. Don't get me wrong, Ron was very helpful and I do appreciate it, but that one step wasn't bad at all IIRC.

 

I did this a couple of months back and to be honest the job was easy, but a bitch doing it on stands. Yes knuckle skin lost but in the end a rebuilt steering rack in new mounts and some new bushes. the only problem I had reassembling was, and I guess this is for the UK the cross member here has a section welded on and it was not perfectly aligned. I was lucky I had a spare from my parts car which aligned perfectly. Hours may be a bit over 10hrs but worth it.

Yes feels like a new car.

 

dr bob said: This strikes me as a serious concern.

 

Maybe the S4 is different. Mine did not want to line up with me honking on the crossmember. I needed someone to lever it into alignment with a taper, as others mention, so I could slip in the bolt and get it started.

 

If you didn't have the engine jacked or pulled way up, you may have been fighting against the new mounts.

 

Ah. It was lifted, but maybe not enough.